Gravel / Gravé / Gnarmac / Groad / ATB

I don't know anything about an Arkose but I've flogged Kinesis for a few years now so if you have specific questions about them ask away. Have you checked their geos to make sure both frames will fit in whatever size you need?

Found another pic. Ruislip Lido.

I’m currently leaning this way over the Arkose, mainly because I can buy the frame set and build it exactly how I’d like to. I’m in the process of checking the geo, so will see.

I appreciate the offer of advice and I’ll make a list of questions and get back to you.

Can't see the image

hhsgb >>>>>>

Google fucking Photos is the single worst gallery tool I've ever seen in my life.

I don't know anything about an Arkose but I've flogged Kinesis for a few years now so if you have specific questions about them ask away. Have you checked their geos to make sure both frames will fit in whatever size you need?

So, the sizing has been a bit of a struggle because I want to match position to my road bike and it's obviously much racier. I think by dropping a frame size down to a 54 and slamming a 17 degree, 120mm stem I can get quite close. Did you need to do anything drastic to fit yours?

Only a couple of questions so far - I've read that the finishing on the frames can be a bit rough. Did you have a shop race and face everything before you built it up?

I've also read that the internal cables can rattle about a bit. Has this been an issue?

Lastly, is there anything you dislike/would change about the frame?

Thanks, TTM

If you’re gonna try and match the fit to your race bike, you may end up not liking it.

Can you expand on this? Sorry, but this is all a bit new to me. I assumed it would be best to replicate the contact points, especially as I am prone to niggles when I change anything on my normal setup even by a few mm’s.

Replicate contact point, making sure saddle to bb distance, saddle to bar etc is spot on, yes that's a must.

But to make your gravel bike to fit exactly like your road bike (handlebar low as possible, same handlebar width, etc.) will likely to result in you not enjoying it as much as your road bike when your fit is specific to that bike, and thus feel like it should respond as well as your road bike.

My advice is to not worry too much about trying to make it exactly the same, some gravel bike are design to work best with wide bar, short stem, off road, etc. and usually force you to ride differently to how you ride your road bike.

Got you. Thanks, will keep this in mind

What @edscoble said. My soma is higher up front, flared bars, but I use the drops for descending rattly gravel and control, not to get aero so much.

To get mine set up to my ultra position it's basically a half way house between my TT position and my road race position because I'm using drops with clip-ons. So yeah, it took initially a 130mm stem to get that right and now it's got a 120mm fitted because the front is quite high and the effective tt is short. I wouldn't size down though if I could avoid it - bigger frame triangle = more space for bags.

Anyway, why would you run 120mm stem but "size down" to 54? Ride the 55.5 or 57 and you could use a much nicer length 100mm stem.

@scherrit is pretty, what's the word, fastidious with builds so he probably would've done it anyway. As mine was a warranty job I never saw the frame until it was built but he might remember what state it was in.

Again, cables rattling internally is due to the shop not installing them properly, not the frame. I've had this in aerobars before but that's easily fixed. Bear in mind the RD Di2 cable isn't internal because of the yoke they use at the BB. So mine is just tape along the underside of the chainstay.

The lack of total internal cables, ie. the RD due to the yoke. It could do with a sexier fork. But to be honest I got mine as a replacement for the 4SD and it wasn't my first choice but its kinda grown on me. The first one was hit from behind by a car and didn't break (it was written off due to risk of future cracking) so they're pretty tough (the back wheel didn't survive). I'm in the process of flogging it on gravel stuff now and it's quite fun but the same could be said for most bikes. I do like the fact I can fit 47mm 650b tyres on it or swap to my 700Cs for road. I don't think you can get my sexeh high viz any more unless you find a used one. Oh, yeah, one thing I liked on the 4SD was the top tube had cable routing so my dyno cable rear light was internal but the Tripster doesn't have this so the cable is taped along the top tube. No biggie for me but people more precious about looks might have a sook.

My road bike is a canyon aeroad fully slammed, including minimal arcos headset spacer. My Kinesis is about 5 cms higher stack. Completely different needs. I'd not want to ride my canyon for 20+ hours. But I'd not be as fast over 4 hours.
I didnt race or face anything and have found it built up fine. Neither have I found any rattle. But I've only run for about 6k Kms since last November.

Yeah by all means get your saddle height and fore/aft the same but there's only so much time you can spend in an aero tuck while trying to ride (slide?) down muddy bridleways.

Big gravel trucks handle better when the going gets tough.

Great info, thanks very much.

The reason I was looking at sizing down was to try to reduce the head tube length, so I could be lower at the front and closer to my usual position. Everyone seems to be saying that I shouldn’t worry too much about the front being higher though, so I’ll have another look at sizing today.

Nothing wrong with a little more stack, less reach and more saddle setback for a different kind of riding.

#internetbeikfit

What is the purpose of this bike? It's not your race bike so you're not going to be racing it are you? The 4S had the same thing for me with head tube length so I did run a -17 on it but that was being raced so it was a lot closer to my road race position than I'd care about if it was just my commuter. With the Tripster I've still got it setup in ultra position but I'm rarely going to be near the aerobars while off-road and it's not a stretch for the drops which is handy because the skinny bars means I'm fighting the bike a lot when it gets muddy (w/ slicks).

What is the purpose of this bike?

To do everything the fast bike isn't able to. So, light off road adventures with big tyres. mostly though, wet winter road duties, bike packing/touring and commuting.

My only thing about replicating position is that I'm so comfortable on my Storck that I see no need to change it. Unless of course that long and low position is to the detriment of handling on this sort of bike - in which case I totally see a case for embracing the higher front end.

Anyway, I've had another look at sizes and the 55.5 will totally work too, so am about to pull the trigger. I appreciate everyone's input.

@hippy pedals? wtf?

I was wondering if anyone had seen or used PNW components coast bars and if so liked them? Reviews seem to be fairly scarce. I am considering the 48cm as they look like they have the geometry (short reach and wideish) I am after.

https://www.pnwcomponents.com/products/the-coast-handlebar

Speedplay are useless as soon as you put a foot down off-road so I'm testing flats.

Funny you mention them, I was looking at suspension post options and found their combo suspension/dropper post: https://bikepacking.com/gear/pnw-coast-suspension-dropper-seatpost-review/

This could be useful for getting my TT saddle setup out of the way on steeper descents. I know nothing of PNW though.

Are those the Pedalling Innovations Catalyst?