Field Cycles custom disc road build

I wouldn't worry about twitchyness from a 90mm stem.

Although I'm sure I once read of there being stems in between 90mm and 120mm sizes ;)

Totally understand and I just had the realisation (largely due to @Dammit ) that it's almost definitely a toe overlap issue.

I got an ISP on my Talbot (RIP). Purely because it looks bad ass, and we wanted to try something new. I have no issues with it. A bit of a pain if you travel a with the bike a lot, but since I ride a 54cm frame, it will still fit in to most boxes if you remove the ISP topper and saddle (no harder than taking out a seapost and saddle).
If you want one, get one. When spending this kind of money on a bike, you have to get exactly what you want, otherwise its a pointless exercise. You wont be selling this bike on at any point, so dont worry about it fitting other people. This is your dream bike, you have to have it built how you want it, and not how others tell you to have it.

Same theory applies to fancy expensive groupset/wheels/finishing kit. I got DA 9070 groupset, Enve cockpit, Reynolds wheels and fancy Fizik saddle etc, on my bike, which was completely ridiculous. Way beyond my needs, and stupidly expensive. But it's what i wanted, and what the bike deserved, so I sucked it up, and stopped being bothered about the cost. This should be a once in a lifetime purchase, so make it count!

As far as paint, if i were you, I would be fairly open with it. Choose a few colours you like, and supply a few images of past builds hes done that you like. That will be the best way of getting a great job out of the painter. It's kinda like getting a tattoo, if you have a very specific set out design, the tattoo artist wont really be into it, and you'll get an average tattoo, if you pick an artist who's style you really like, tell them the kind of thing you want, and let them handle the rest, you will get a great tattoo, as you are letting the artist have full creative input..... The same theory applies to getting a frame painted in my book.

Good luck with the build. Sounds ace. Hope the wait isnt too painful!

inline seatpost and you can use a longer stem. custom bikes with stems shorter than 100mm seems wrong in my eyes

In the time since my post and your post I had decided Di2. It makes no sense to go cabled really and I can't see myself jumping on the wireless (SRAM etc) stuff (Ultegra is my idea for that).

It won't be long before Di2 go wireless in 2016 as SRAM is already is.

inline seatpost and you can use a longer stem.

Not exactly how it work, inline seatpost allow you to move the saddle forward if it's too far back still on a layback.

If you're putting it forward just to shorten the reach, you'll compromise comfort.

Thanks! The wait shouldn't be TOO long (I think I got in at a decent time).

With ISP etc, I totally get your point and am buoyed by the fact that my frame is around a 54 so perhaps a bike box won't be out of the question.

I feel the same about components on the basis that this will (probably) be a once in a lifetime for me.

Lastly, on paint, I agree. I am fairly heavily tattooed myself and so understand your analogy all too well. I am building a picture of past projects, my colour choices, etc and hope they will produce something amazing (as usual).

In the time since my post and your post I had decided Di2. It makes no sense to go cabled really and I can't see myself jumping on the wireless (SRAM etc) stuff (Ultegra is my idea for that).
It won't be long before Di2 go wireless in 2016 as SRAM is already is.

Hopefully my bike will allow for that in it's design.

edscoble in reply to @Hekla
inline seatpost and you can use a longer stem.
Not exactly how it work, inline seatpost allow you to move the saddle forward if it's too far back still on a layback.

If you're putting it forward just to shorten the reach, you'll compromise comfort.

I will ask the question. If I can go up to like 100/110 and not compromise the concept of the geometry then I'd say I will go for it (but I will live with 90mm if not).

You can go longer by opting for a shorter reach drop handlebar, 70mm is obtainable, and Pro Vibe made one in 65mm reach.

Slacken the headtube angle a bit, and increasing the fork rake will help shorten the top tube by a centimetres.

e.g. 71 degree headtube with a 50mm rake fork.

But then again, you wouldn't like how it look.

The current fork is Enve 2.0 disc and they only do 43mm rake at the moment (although I'm going to speak to Harry about options in that regard).

Also, currently have Enve compact drops at 79mm reach on there for the purposes of the drawing (or so I'm told).

When spending this kind of money on a bike, you have to get exactly what you want, otherwise its a pointless exercise. You wont be selling this bike on at any point, so dont worry about it fitting other people. This is your dream bike, you have to have it built how you want it, and not how others tell you to have it.

^This. Design by committee is very rarely a good thing.

Know what you want and allow the frame-builder to help you achieve that.

maybe people have said the same about custom frames having inline seatposts. The joys of the internet.

Totally agree.

My seeking help is largely on geometry given that I'm new to it and know many on here have experience through having builds.

Regardless of some people's dislike for certain brands such as Enve and people's feeling that hydro discs are not necessary, I like those things and will, ultimately, go ahead regardless.

I have a similar feeling about short stems, not based really on my own experience, but on a lot of reading, i.e. I prefer 100mm or more if at all possible.

That being said, I don't think Harry would've suggested a 90mm it if it would handle like shit.

As for inline vs setback, I don't have a preference either way (one of the few areas I don't!).

I would be surprised if you can notice the difference in handling between 90 and 100mm. Best to have it fit properly I think.

nah, -17 degree slammed, 140mm...

I have a similar feeling about short stems.

Understandably so when you look at the pro with 130mm stem all over, however a shorter stem won't make the bike twitchy, just make it feel twitchy (if that make sense).

I reckon once you ride it, you forget about the whole nonsense of the 90mm stem.

I agree.

When I started riding a 100mm stem I felt that it was weird but I soon got used to it.

That frame is tiny compared to your Cannondale. Does that mean your Cannondale is massive for you?

I had a bike fit on it and, with the correct components, it has ended up being set up fine (shortish stem, saddle right forward and almost no seat post) and is comfortable BUT it is too big yes.

It isn't 'massive' though.

The SystemSix was my first ever road bike and I learned several lessons from the process of buying & building up and the bike itself but it has been really good to me and served its purpose well.

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Isn't it a 56?

That looks like a 90mm stem?

So the field will be ~3 cm shorter?

It is a 56cm yeah.

That's a 100mm +/- 6 stem on there now.

There is a big difference to the current build in a few respects but it is certainly the case that I wanted something more compact this time.

I've done a little comparison in the attached photo (the SystemSix measurements in red and the highlighted measurements are those that were taken during my bike fit/will remain the same).

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How long have you been cycling for? Have you spent any time finding your ideal fit on a bike? THe fact that you are unsure about your choice of saddle suggests that you perhaps haven't....

I can ride a wide/flat saddle at a height of 850mm, my knee angle is "within range" a the bottom of the stroke and I'd be comfortable for a day in the saddle. I'd end up with a short stem (110mm) for my height and a small saddle to bar drop though. Handling (especially on high speed descents) wouldn't be perfect, and my "aero" credentials wouldn't be great either.

What I actually ride is a narrow/curved saddle at a height of 820mm, a 140mm stem and a 145mm saddle to bar drop. It's just as comfortable for a day in the saddle, but aerodynamics/power/handling are much improved. It took me a while to arive at this position, but it's how I've ridden for the past however many years, and I can't see it changing much (obviously stem length and saddle setback vary within 10mm or so between bikes)

Do you have any photos of yourself in your current position on your current bike?

It seems like a potentially risky move ordering an expensive bike if you're unsure of your fit. If you do go ahead, I would suggest fairly "neutral" geometry for your height, and a standard seatpost incase your saddle height does change.

Thanks for your advice @macaroon .

I've ridden for a pretty long time, found what areas I was struggling with and had a professional bike fit (and, importantly, found marked improvements on comfort and power post-fit) so the dimensions should be correct.

I was unsure for a time on saddle but have done long distances on a number of saddles, leading me to choose the Fabric ALM.

As to geometry in general, for a 175cm tall guy of my dimensions I think it's there - probably the fact that I'm very nervous about large investments in general that leads me to question myself and others!