• Let me know if you want to discuss anything - different shifters but it will be the same principle, remove the ratchet and the auto return. They rohbox has both so all the lever does is pulls cable through when you pres it and then gets pulled back to central by cable tension/the rohbox.

    I’ll send photos of the edsan, I am more impressed with it than I expected to be, but I will be trying to hide as much as possible in front bags etc.

  • I've been reading all the info on modifying the Sram trigger shifters, so hopefully it'll be pretty straightforward.
    I know someone who uses the rohbox with the same shifters and cables and really likes it, so I'm hopeful I'll finally be able to ditch the twist grip and use my 'togs' again! Something which is impossible with the twist shifter.

  • Post pics!

  • Anyone want any of these? Rules are 1) you’re a proper forum member 2) you pay postage 3) please use them!

    Edit: also please make a donation to the forum!


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  • I would like 8509 and the monkeybone please!

  • No problem, I’ve PM’d you

  • Hi, could I take the other bits to go with my 'spare' rohloff please

  • Sure, sounds good. You’re unlikely to need both of the OEM adaptors though? The longer one goes with the speed bone, and it occurs to me @MCamb ought to want the shorter one as it goes with the monkey bone I think?

  • Anyone got a spare rolloff service kit lying about?

  • Sorry, mine isn’t spare BUT I did find this very useful

  • Yes you're right, the longer one goes with the Speedbone for post mount that's what I meant

  • Interesting thanks

  • I gotta say, the Rohbox is actually easier to set up than Rohloffs own. None of the faffing about wrapping the cables around the pulley the right way etc.
    Using Yokozuna reaction brake cable outer and stainless steel gear cable inner, mated to modified Sram XO shifters, which are direct mounted to my Hope brake levers everything feels really solid and the shifters don't even need that big a push to change gear.
    This is all only stationary in the flat though as it's nearly midnight, so like fuck can I be arsed to go out and try it.
    Cue tomorrow's post about how the Rohbox exploded five minutes into my ride to work! 😂

  • How was it? Sounds like it worked in the stand a lot more smoothly than mine.

  • Just got to work and it was awesome! I don't know if it's the Yokozuna brake outers, or trigger shifters as opposed to brifters, or just the combination of the two, but it feels like I hardly have to push the shifter any further than the last time I used a regular drivetrain. Which granted has been a few years. But first impressions are that it feels way more like changing gears than with the Rohloff twist shifter. I actually have quite a bit of preload on the spring and it still doesn't feel 'hard' to push. The resistance feels pretty much how I'd want it to feel.
    I just have to get used to having no gear indicator now. 😁

  • Awesome! Sounds great. I’m pretty sure my problem was cable routing/too many bends. I couldn’t do anything about it though!

    In E-Rohloff news my Edsan has arrived, the junction boxes are marginally better IRL than expected, the motor unit is great, and the buttons are tiny - they’ll go under the bar tape fine and it will be amazing although I’ve got excited about this build before and things haven’t worked out…

    On a dry run, disconnected from the bike, the system looks like it will work fine - press the button, servo and motor whir immediately.

  • It's still crazy to me that Rohloff have never managed to release any other shifter after so many years. The hydraulic shifter that was around for a while looked great, but it just disappeared really quickly.
    It seems like the perfect system for hydraulic or electronic, and they still only have a twist shifter that feels spongy, and causes your wrist to end up in awkward positions.

    I get the whole 'dumping multiple gears at once' thing, but I've never found myself in a position where I've needed to do that.

  • Can anyone confirm that to run a Rohloff in a frame with non Rohloff dropouts and chainstay mounted IS disc tab you need the torque arm, oem 2 + speed/monkey bone doesn't work does it?

  • Yes, confirmed*. The “anchor point” (where the OEM plate touches the speed/Monkeybone) needs to be behind a vertical line drawn through the middle of the axle. I believe this is so the torque doesn’t push it out, which could happen in theory if it were in front.

    *I can’t work out if there are any circumstances where it might work, but I don’t think so.

  • This page was useful.

    Although, it shows this, which seems to me to put the anchor point in front of vertical.


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  • Hmmm.

    I read something on the Rohloff site that the torque goes in both directions, one way when you’re in lower gears and the other way in higher gears so I can’t get my head around why it’s so important to have the anchor point behind the axle but I guess they know what they are talking about.

    My dropouts are copies of Paragon low mounts so maybe I could anchor to the mudguard eye.

  • I machined an aluminium stopper plate that bolts onto two mudguard eyelets, and receives the OEM plate.

    I can’t find a photo of it right now but here is 1) the problem and 2) the plastic mock up solution


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  • is there just much more torque in one direction than the other?

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IGH, Alfine, Rohloff, Sturmey Archer and frames/bikes built for them...

Posted by Avatar for cornelius_blackfoot @cornelius_blackfoot

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