-
• #178
On the top tube tho?
Downtube, headtube, BB junction definitely but top tube and seat tube less so (AFAIK).
-
• #179
Oooff. I trust you are okay?
-
• #180
Yes thank you. It happened a while back. No harm to me.
My road bike is 31.8 top tube and 35 mm down tube Columbus Zona mtb tubes. And that is lovely for my size and riding style #julemandsfysik
Regarding using a 31.8 top tube on a bike that already has a 31.8 downtube. It probably isn't necessary, but I want to use the leftover top tube to make the down tube gusset (that will make a nice transition from gusset to DT) and I think the bigger top tube will also give shouldering a bit more comfort. Any ways, frame is broken, so I might as well experiment.
-
• #181
I am thinking about ovalising the toptube. I can not find any methods using google, so I must be using the wrong words. I thought I once saw a guy doing it using some planks of wood and a vise.
Anyways, my current idea is to CNC some hardwood and the use a large garage press to form the tube.
@mdcc_tester can you tell me if this will work?
For the seatstay/top tube junction I am hoping it will look a bit like this:
-
• #182
@coldharbour is your man for that, he loves reshaping tubes.
-
• #183
You are right. Thank you.
Maybe Matt has an idea of a smarter way.I will just test it to see what happens...
-
• #184
You and Matt could do a rat bike collaboration.
Hulsroy X Talbot
-
• #185
Your plan is legit, although from personal experience I would suggest bottle Jacks, at least two, as you'll have a mare evenly distributing the load (or even getting adequate force / fitting into vice) using a vice.
-
• #186
Thanks Matt. I will give it a go.
-
• #187
Got around to machine a shaping die today.
I changed the design of the die so it is only half a tube shaped at a time. I clamped the round part of the tube with a F clamp and put the die in the wise. I worked my way from the round center to the oval end slowly.
I will do the other end on Monday. Got kicked out of the workshop by the guard 7pm. Oh well...the bend is a bit sharp. Next time I will try with an internal die in steel, turned on the 4 axis cnc. Edit: I think it is called an oval mandrel..
2 Attachments
-
• #188
Replaced the top tube finally. Need to file one more fillet and then braze gusset and then some more filing. Decals turned out nice, so now I just need to decide on color.
4 Attachments
-
• #189
Nice work!
-
• #190
TA
-
• #191
loving the decals-how about putting them on over the bare steel and then just clear coating the frame to seal it?
-
• #192
^ this aaaand when the frame starts to patina under the clearcoat it'll look even cooler imo
-
• #193
I hear you, but it is not durable in the long run with clear spray and this is my Cx frame. Powder coating is necessary
-
• #194
Took a while to shake the illusion that the brake bridge was a big kink in the seatstay!
-
• #195
;-)
It is an S bend seat stay. They are a fucker if you hand mitre.
-
• #196
Getting there. Luckily the workshop has been quiet this week. Hopefully ready for paint tomorrow.
3 Attachments
-
• #197
Are you going to move the Gundersen decal up a bit this time?
-
• #198
dat gussett .mov
-
• #199
Pls share a link to the international decal codex? I will obey if there is proof you are right
-
• #200
Absolutely amazing work you've got here, not sure why didn't I notice this thread so far.
31.8 isn't that big. Also, it's a large frame, so might benefit from some extra stiffness.