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• #77
Mudland more like
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• #78
Even better.
Anything for offroading should be Bright coloured in my 'child of the eighties' mind.
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• #79
Oh :-(
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• #80
Release the fluro
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• #81
Spot the schoolboy error:
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• #82
Tread's pointing in reverse?
Or is it as simple as you just forgot to put air in them?
Or that you have silly tires on silly wheels?
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• #83
And mismatched rotors :-(
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• #84
Hmm, much more wrong than the mis-matched decals that I was annoyed about, it would appear.
The disc-rotors can't match, as the rear is Powertap specific.
I can't get any air into the tyres until I am in the vicinity of a compressor - tell me again why tubeless is an improvement?
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• #86
Mismatched decals look find IMO - sort of like you were trying to mismatch them.
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• #87
The hubs don't match, which is hard for my OCD to handle, the decals will have to:
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• #88
I can't get any air into the tyres until I am in the vicinity of a compressor - tell me again why tubeless is an improvement?
Why?
The fairly liquid thing is a bit duff - it doesn't play nice with sealant. Try mounting them with a tube, then pop one side off the rim, and take the tube out. That way you'll have half the job done when you need to get frisky with the floor pump.
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• #89
I find the "and then just pop the sidewall into the bead by pulling it outward with a tyre magnet" bit is the tricky part.
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• #90
Roll it along the floor. Then pump like fury with a decent high volume track pump.
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• #91
if you have a ratchet strap or used inner tube to wrap around the tyre outside circ., it helps push the sidewalls out, but you are still gona be pumping frantically if you havent got extra hands.
Great project again! silver braze? tubeset? pics plz -
• #92
if they don't go up easily there's usually something very wrong; rim tape isn't sealing properly, air escaping around valve stem hole, tire not positioned correctly around valve area, tire not tight enough on rim bed.
Every time I've had a tire that won't go up its because the install has gone wrong.
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• #93
They are not tubeless specific tyres to be fair.
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• #94
if you have a ratchet strap or used inner tube to wrap around the tyre outside circ., it helps push the sidewalls out, but you are still gona be pumping frantically if you havent got extra hands.
Great project again! silver braze? tubeset? pics plzTried, failed, will try again tomorrow.
I probably need to build the tape up a bit to get a better seal.
Anyway - 853, mainly, with a carbon ISP, standard braze, going to be experimenting with bending some 4130 for the rear end to get enough mud clearance, and it's fun.
Hopefully I'll grab some pics tomorrow.
Now - the most important question, I need a 135mm rear skewer and a thru-axle front, what to get?
Matching would be nice, if possible, in order to try to tie the somewhat mongrel wheelset together a little.
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• #96
There is only one choice. DT RWS will match your front and rear perfectly.
On the tyres, makes sure both beads sit down in the central channel of the rim, then pump like crazy. Always works for me. When the tyre is partially seated in the hook of the rim, air can escape. Let air pressure force the bead under the hook.
On the decals, you have to match! I have gone with the silver outline like your front wheel on all of mine. Much less shouty than the white.
Colour is a real tricky. The subtle Rapha Continental look of pearl or metallic black with a pearl white and pink accent always looks classy. Otherwise, bright is in baby! Look at the Independent Facrication owners website for some inspiration. The Mercian bike builder has a great online colour tool where you can play to your heart's content.
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• #97
I've ordered another two sets of the black decals, the rear wheel will soon match the front.
I agree with the DT RWS - but simply cannot find a 15mm thru-axle front for sale.
Chain Reaction appears to have the rear I need -a conventional 135mm QR.
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• #98
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• #99
Trying to tie the wheels together, I've got these.
Rear:
Front:
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• #100
Look good
Any joy with seating the tyres?
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