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• #52
I thought the lolz were more about glass houses and stones....
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• #53
Yeah that
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• #54
yep. That.
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• #55
Re Hope hubs, they are ace. As bombproof as you can get. The only negative thing I can say about them is that the incredibly noisy freewheel gets really fucking annoying when you are working on the bike in a workstand.
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• #56
Also just realised that the Flo 30 rims are actually ~570g a set, not ~450g...
So - call it ~1180g for rims, then ~180g for CX Rays, what are the chances I can get hubs in under 300g?
American Classics?
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• #57
Tune Mig/Mag?
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• #58
just get Ardennes or Pacenti's, they actually are around 450g... or Archetypes, which are 470g and half the price.
If these are going to be winter wheels and racing wheels, I would be thinking about having a cheaper rim (as they will wear faster) that is easily available to replace and a better hub. Hope to Archetypes would be perfect and plenty light. It's going to be pretty annoying having to import a rim every time you crash or need a new braking surface.
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• #59
I think that only works with proper structural carbon rims, not aluminium rims with fairings.
Ah, good point- anyone with some hybrid rims care to comment?
Can confirm that my old planet x alu rims with carbon fairings made the desired carbon whoooshhhing noise
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• #60
My Roval's too, and Rs80 50mm's...
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• #61
i miss my road bike. 1 weeek
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• #62
Tune Mig/Mag?
I don't know if its just mine, but the free hub body metal is not particularly solid.
Maybe the Ti is better, will report back when I get round to ordering it...
May give up and buy a hope rear instead. -
• #63
Tune Mig/Mag?
Bit too rich for me at the moment...
just get Ardennes or Pacenti's, they actually are around 450g... or Archetypes, which are 470g and half the price.
If these are going to be winter wheels and racing wheels, I would be thinking about having a cheaper rim (as they will wear faster) that is easily available to replace and a better hub. Hope to Archetypes would be perfect and plenty light. It's going to be pretty annoying having to import a rim every time you crash or need a new braking surface.
Racing wheels now, winter wheels later. Ardennes and Pacenti's don't have to aerodynamic advantages of the Flo 30s, and apart from the Ardennes+, wihch are hard to get hold of rim only, Flo's are wider. To be honest I would rather focus on a wheelset that performs well in all conditions rather than be bothered about the ifs and whens of crashing or wearing through them. If that was the focus of wheel building we'd all be on Open Pros.
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• #64
Superlite Novatecs seem to be a good shout for weight, who sells 'em in the UK?
I'd be fine, as a 63kg rider, on a 20h 2X rear wheel, eh?
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• #65
You'd be better of keeping the rear 24h and making the front a 16h, that's a perfect 60:40 weight distribution that most road bike set ups give
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• #66
The Flo30s come in 20 or 24... might be better to go 20/24 I guess, for year round reliability.
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• #67
Ah, yeah, bearing in mind these are eventually going to be winter wheels is go 20/24 at your weight
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• #68
All sounds good. Those flo30s look great as all-rounders.
You should make a point of wearing out your chainrings training rather than swapping them for tarty reason IMHO. :)
If you're getting clincher wheels with alloy involved you can put latex tubes in. Conti supersonics are the worst of both worlds..... as in they're no faster than normal tubes but are potentially a bit easy to pinch when you're trying to do a quick repair.
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• #69
Superlite Novatecs seem to be a good shout for weight, who sells 'em in the UK?
Fitzrovia, according to Amey. I order em from Bdop.
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• #70
All sounds good.
You should make a point of wearing out your chainrings training rather than swapping them for tarty reason IMHO. :)
If you're getting clincher wheels with alloy involved you can put latex tubes in. Conti supersonics are the worst of both worlds..... as in they're no faster than normal tubes but are potentially a bit easy to pinch when you're trying to do a quick repair.
I'm totally with you on the chainrings, as much as I'm a proper vain twat, I'm also very skint, so replacing them before they're done rankles me. I would think a new chain, chainrings and cassette might crop up maybe spring next year if I keep riding at my current pace.
I'm not quite sure if I can be arsed with latex tubes - despite the improvement in rolling resistance, the majority of my riding is done after waking up late or getting home from work late, so anything which gets in the way of my usual 'grab the bike and cross-mount out the door' is frowned upon. However, I am easily swayed by cheap improvements, so I'm uncertain.
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• #71
go for tubeless
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• #72
Curiously there are CAAD10s and SuperSix Evos with shorter reach and higher stack measurements - a '51' can be had with a 53.4 reach and a 37cm stack which in terms of reach isn't far off your 48. +2mm reach with a further 21mm stack I think, looking at the geo charts. Problem is, they are branded 'women's' and are probably difficult to get in the UK.
If this is true, might one solution be to accept this frame as ugly, ride it through the summer (and winter) and keep it as a crash-able race frame, whilst trying to get one of the CAAD 10s, which will be easier to re-paint as its alu, and might fit a bit better, as a long term bike?
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• #73
I'm totally with you on the chainrings, as much as I'm a proper vain twat, I'm also very skint, so replacing them before they're done rankles me. I would think a new chain, chainrings and cassette might crop up maybe spring next year if I keep riding at my current pace.
You'll probably go through a few chains. 2,000km changes keeps cassettes and rings fresher longer. Mine are pretty dead after that in the winter due to epic power no doubt cough
I'm not quite sure if I can be arsed with latex tubes - despite the improvement in rolling resistance, the majority of my riding is done after waking up late or getting home from work late, so anything which gets in the way of my usual 'grab the bike and cross-mount out the door' is frowned upon. However, I am easily swayed by cheap improvements, so I'm uncertain.
Ah, you're a non-pumper. Carbon all the things and ride on flat tyres >>> :0
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• #74
If this is true, might one solution be to accept this frame as ugly, ride it through the summer (and winter) and keep it as a crash-able race frame, whilst trying to get one of the CAAD 10s, which will be easier to re-paint as its alu, and might fit a bit better, as a long term bike?
^ Honestly, the frame fits me fine. It's not particularly pretty, and I might be lumbered with a few spacers, but the contact points are in the right place, it's light as hell and I love riding it. I'm not going to switch it out until I break it or I can afford something truly special.
With reference to the women's Supersix, the 48cm version has a 509mm TT and a 112mm headtube. Mine is 515mm TT and 110mm. For the ability to stick an 95mm stem on and loose half a spacer, it's not worth the effort.
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• #75
The women's '51' has a reach 2mm greater than your 48, but 2cm more stack. So you'd loose most / all the spacers and reduce the goofy seatpost-as-long-as-your-seattube somewhat.
Hypothetically if you got one you could go from 'acceptable, kinda' to 'pornworthy' after a respray. But who has time for that etc.
TBH I'm not going to bother with WW hubs on a ~450g rim. I'd rather go with reliability, as these will end up as my winter wheels eventually.
It is pretty rank.