Custom Burls Ti fixed bro-pro

Hey Hefty, this looks very promising. What's the lead time on a Burls frame these days?

Are you having a set-back seatpost or an inline one? The drawings seem to show a set-back one, and the set-back Thomson 'bent stick' seatpost is 'orrible.

With the 77 degrees seat angle, I won't be surprised if he have to resort to an setback seatpost.

Justin has quoted 8 weeks +/- wait, probably + because of Christmas.

I've been riding my commuter fixeh with the seat right forward for the last week to try to replicate the position I'll be in on the Burls and I like it. It seems to open my chest up a bit when in the drops. I do find I have to shuffle back a bit on the saddle for seated climbing tho.

Have you been for a bike fit?

Well worth it IMO if you're spending a grand on a custom frame.

I know it's a bit of a swear word, but does anyone have experience of BLB pursuit bars?

They quote 193g which is mega light and they're available in silver with an OS clamp, which seems rare.

http://bricklanebikes.co.uk/blb-components/Handlebars

Justin has quoted 8 weeks +/- wait, probably + because of Christmas.
That's pretty standard for them, I think - the dependency is on the builders' holidays.

I know it's a bit of a swear word, but does anyone have experience of BLB pursuit bars?

They quote 193g which is mega light and they're available in silver with an OS clamp, which seems rare.

http://bricklanebikes.co.uk/blb-components/Handlebars

I have, they're alright and have shape that looks decent and not too uncomfortable.

I'd go for deda chrono neros and remove the anodising though.

http://www.wiggle.co.uk/deda-crononero-aerobars/

About 40g heavier on the claimed weight mind.

Have you been for a bike fit?

Well worth it IMO if you're spending a grand on a custom frame.

I have, about a year ago. They told me all my bikes, which were set up by trial and error, were just about right and all they did was move my cleats about 4mm. This actually helped a fair bit with my comfort on distance rides.

I'm confident the frame is right, once it's here I can fiddle about a bit with stem length and saddle position and maybe even the odd spacer under the stem* then tweak it as I go.

• Not really.
  

I have, they're alright and have shape that looks decent and not too uncomfortable.

I'd go for deda chrono neros and remove the anodising though.

http://www.wiggle.co.uk/deda-crononero-aerobars/

About 40g heavier on the claimed weight mind.

Those were what i was looking at originally (see p1), but I need the drop to get to the right height and the drop ones are more like 90g more. Not much in isolation, but disregarding a 30% weight difference isn't easy.

Can you elaborate on 'not too uncomfortable'? Could you ride with your hands on the shoulders of the bar without having to push yourself up all the time?

In terms of weight;

1) go for different wheels. How much do you weigh?
2) I don't believe the Miche crank weight. Is that verified by WW, or Miche? I would go for a road crank like a stripped SRAM red, or campag record with a 3/32 track ring.

Just a thought, if you wanted you could also make a provision for a belt drive.

I'm 68 - 72kg depending on pub activity. I'm going to try to get to 65 this season but I probs won't.

I know there are lighter wheels out there but I want silver and don't really want to spend more than £300. Any ideas?

Because I want the bike to look traditional belt drive is a no.

I can't remember where I got the Miche weight. I expect it was Miche.

I like the idea of a pared down road crank but don't really know where to start.

Miche :(

^^how light are we talking? I'd say novatec bolt on rear (the bolt ons are lighter) then novatec road hub front (re-anodize it silver for classic look) 28/24, 2x rear, radial front, the double butted 1.8/1.5/1.8 spokes that DT Swiss do, laced to silver a23's for cost and weight or archetypes for aero and hipster cred, that should be about 1.5kg for the wheelset, to go much lighter you'd have to get your crabon on I think

Cranks wise, miche are ok, and look like they polish up nicely, I'll have some off my frame in a bit and I'll weigh em for you, I'd say look for some road cranks though, I'll have some fsa gossamers that I'll weigh for you too if you want, but if have a look on weightweenies and their database for cranks

Second hand silver American Classic 420s and remove decals? Light, fast and solid wheels....

Funnily enough I'm looking at polished Archetypes with silver DT aerolites and maybe a polished Halo road front hub (80g) and double fixed rear (270g)

It should be a bit over 1.5kg for the set, but not much.

I'd look at at American Classics, either the 350s or 420s but they're not that much lighter and I'd have to diassassemble them to make them silver.

Archetype would be my recommendation, the wider rims should allow a slightly lower profile on a 23mm without the discomfort, etc.

FR 20h and RR 24h?

I want a slightly more classic look so 24 front and 32 rear. Another 70g worth of spokes, but form over function on this occasion for me.

imo that difference would look a bit much, in terms of spoke numbers, if you wanted a 32 rear it'd have to be a 28 front for me, and don't halo hubs have a habit of stripping threads?

you could definitely get away with 28/24 though, given your weight, especially if you used wider rims and even more so with archetypes

This sucks.

I did want a 28H rear, but Halo don't make one, only 32H.

Most other ficksy hubs are either too heavy or too much dorrah.

And now you tell me Halo is made of cheese. :(

Novatec low flange with front road hubs seemed to be the best option TBH.

WEIGHT
217g

SPOKE HOLES
24
28
32
36

Try buying one.

and don't halo hubs have a habit of stripping threads?

yep, i've destroyed a double fix one

The frame should be underway somewhere in deepest Russia by now, so I've been starting to amass some of the bits.

First to arrive from bike-discount.de (about 20-something% cheaper than Wiggle overall) this week are :

Ritchey Pro Micro v4 spud pedals. Ritchey quote 208g, the kitchen scales agree :

They're dinky.

As recommended on here I've also gone with Ritchey for their Classic stem. Again the scales agree to the gram with what they quoted.

The only thing I didn't like about the stem was the hewge RITCHEY logos, but 2 minutes with some of Mrs Hefty' nail varnish remover had them gone.

Does anyone know how to get a Lumix camera to focus close up? :(

The other bits that have arrived are the 42mm valve Conti GP Supersonic innertubes (55g each including the pointless nut and valve cap) and Wippermann Connex chain (285g, but I'll be losing a fair few links so that will come down).

I think I've made the decision to go with a 42T 90s Dura Ace road chainset and matching brake and seat post. Probably. And probably polished. Probably.

I've also received the EC90 SLX forks from jimjamosullivan on here. They're going to have some cosmetic attention, but happily are 295g, 25g less than Easton quote and a bit more to come off once the steerer is shortened.

Re: Lumix camera and focusing

Your camera may/should have a "macro" (close focus) mode somewhere.

Look for an icon that looks like this:

The stem looks fantastic.