Singular Osprey & Genesis Equilibrium: winter road bike build

Looks like a nice frame man, when do you reckon you'll have it built up??

I was hoping to get it done this weekend but I thought I'd have the wheels built by now. I've just been too busy in the evenings. In the week or next weekend maybe.

There's a bit of wheel rub in the inside of the NDS chainstay (visible in the pic) - any suggestions for touch-up paint to stop it rusting? Bit of Hammerite?

ace you got this, very tidy looking frame and that colour way is great

Is it a dynamo mount on the fork?

lowrider mount (if you're referring to the bolt on the middle of the arm).

Ed is correct, it has lowrider rack mounts.

any suggestions for touch-up paint to stop it rusting? Bit of Hammerite?

Jenolite, then whatever paint matches. If you're worried about it rubbing again you could put a patch of helicopter tape down.

Ed is correct, it has lowrider rack mounts.

Ah ok. Could you use this to fit a dynamo light?

Jenolite, then whatever paint matches. If you're worried about it rubbing again you could put a patch of helicopter tape down.

Ta, will check that out. I'm not overly concerned with how it looks, it's only a small patch and you'd struggle to see it with the wheel in. I just want to protect it from rust.

Ah ok. Could you use this to fit a dynamo light?

Don't know, I'm not an expert on such things. But I should think you could make it work.

I fitted an adaptor that allowed me to mount a front light lower to case pothole shadow on the road and lengthened the beam.

So yes, you can.

i was going to bid on that but went to the pub instead. will look forward to seeing it built up.

for the rust wheel rub i think you would be fine giving it a bit of a clean and then taping over it.

Wheels laced, will try and get them tensioned & trued tonight.

Won't be done this weekend though, lots of other bits to do though (e.g. the rear mech is coming off the road bike & being replaced by the short cage one I've had waiting for a while). Plus I need to get my cassette lockring tool back from my brother.

Nearly finished the wheels. Front is done, rear needs another 15 minutes or so. Might be able to start piecing it together tonight.

Sloooow progress. Wheels finished and tyres mounted. Did a dry fit of the wheels, bars, seatpost and saddle last night. The clamp design on the Deda post doesn't seem to allow for much fore-aft adjustment with a Flite and by eye it looks too far forward. So I might have to go back to the layback. But I'll get the running gear on it first and then get the tape measure out.

One little question: the dropouts are the short semi-horizontal type and have a bit of leeway in them. Am I alright to set it up so the axle rests against the end of the slot - i.e. all the way in - or should I be purchasing some of the little screws to stop the axle in the middle of the dropout? The frame didn't arrive with any but the dropouts have that little hole for them. It'll be fine just resting all the way in the dropout, right?

should be fine i reckon.

Two thing;

Setting it all the way back mean there's slightly more room with the mudguard and brakes.

However, setting it forward mean you won't have to deflate the tyres a bit to get it out of the drop out (if it's necessary).

That's kind of what I figured. I still don't really understand why you'd use non-vertical dropouts (for a derailleur bike) these days. Those little screws are just begging to rust and seize up.

I agree, there's three theory to why they do that - change the chainstay length (shorter wheelbase), imperfection when building a frame, or make it easier to removed wheel from frame (moving it away from the derailleur).

The imperfection theory is likely to be the reason (not on that frame thought) as there are high end framebuilder in the past that actually have vertical drop out, horizontal mean you can adjust the wheel nice and straight with an askewed drop out.

I think Singular did that so people can run it as a singlespeed/fixed perhaps? like they did with their CX bike.

Maybe, though they're shorter than would be ideal for SS/fixed. I dunno. There's also the obvious drawback of the wheel moving under power if it's not clamped in super hard (which is presumably what happened to cause the chainstay rub on my frame).

Was aiming to finish building it up today but it's been one of 'those' builds. The problem solver nuts for the brakes require quite a large bolt to fix the mudguard in the back, M6 I think. Which I didn't have in the correct length. So I had to go ghetto and clamp the mudguard loops between the brake and the frame. And the brake hole in the fork crown is so high the brake itself fouled the headset cup. I mean, why make a crown that shallow? I literally can't see how you could fit a normal brake. I had to space it out with washers.

And then, having carefully cut and prepped the sections of rear brake cable, I realised that there weren't stops in the internal top tube routing - that it just runs the cable outer all the way through the inside of the top tube. I suppose it's a relatively weatherproof solution but it's pretty daft. And quite impractical. Worse braking, plus the front boss is very close to the headset and the cable routing is a pain compared to normal offset cable stops.

So, yeah, a bit of an annoying build. Leaving the chain and shift cabling for tomorrow.

Oh yeah ALSO. I have to deflate the tyre to get the rear wheel out. So dumb. There are lots of little details on this frame that really don't suit the type of bike that it is.

images of the fork crown? What headset do you have

I think it's an FSA headset. The ridged barrel part of the brake, behind the spring & arms, contacts the crown race if you mount it straight up against the crown.

It's odd when you get frames with "querks" like those. It makes you realise how many small but important design details go into a frame.

On the forks, out of curiousity, could they have just drilled it lower to resolve the problem, or would that then impact on the tyre/'guard clearance ?