Serotta CSI

a - put a washer between lever and cable to sit the cable clear of the rivet head

b - extend the corner sweep radius under the bb with curved ferrule from a set of mini-vees

c - screw a curtain eye hook into the rivet head hole and rethread the cable through this

d - fit campagnolo

e) Get it close enough and call it done

flats of drops point at rear brake bridge

Brilliant, have to rep you for this.

Just put the levers straight. This looks like Anerley. No wonder you are not comfortable.

I'm assuming this maeans Anerley Hill.
If the front end is too low then surely just raise the stem and tilt the bars up?

More fiddling:

You really don't want to rise the stem do you?

Angle of bar is almost identical to mine.

1 Attachment

More fiddling:

That looks fine.

Man that needs campag levers

You say that, but being on fire would spoil the paint.

This is looking like a '98 btw, just in case anyone was in anyway interested.

Default Shimano setup is to have the STIs so you can put a vertical line through tip of lever and front of hood when they are rotated forward/backward enough.

They are slightly too far back, I agree, I'm just moving things around at this stage.

Does that Shimano rule trump the "tip of lever MUST NOT go below a notional line taken from the underside of the flat section of the drop"?

It's all a pile of arbitrary rule of thumb bullshit anyway.
A pox on anyone who judges my bar or lever rotation.

That's pretty much the angle I had my Noodles at, worked great. Though the levers are a bit high, as already acknowledged.

Noodles are the sort of shape that you could quite happily run like that or with the ends horizontal, though, the round curve feels the same behind the levers. Just depends on how you like the hood transition.

That's more like it.
Looks like it may be difficult to raise the stem because the cables are too short?

bars look good now. I'd have stis slightly forward so that a line from hood to lever front faces are perpendicular.
if still causing back ache: raise stem, shorten stem, yoga, or all three

or, spatr bars

and ed will send a t-rex brotherhood application form...

No back ache with the initial setup, it was, slightly bizarrely, the right hand side of my neck (the trapezius I am guessing?), left hand side was fine.

This may be more to do with my scoliosis than bar height, albeit that the two are related in terms of management if that makes sense.

ah, lower head, ride like bull!

and snarl

550 miles on this bike now, and overall I am really enjoying it.

The seating position is "rightest" of all my bikes- I'm going to change the position of the others to match insofar as is possible.

However I'm not getting on with the bars- the transition is quite flat, but there is enough of a rise that it puts significant pressure on the carpal area of my wrists.

So- I shall change the bars, I like the look of the Nitto M106 but they are certainly spendy, can anyone help me to understand why they are so expensive?

And can anyone recommend a similar, quill-stem friendly drop bar with a flat transition?

The M106 are heat treated, yadda yadda, but seem to come out at a similar price to the Nitto ADB-X and stuff, maybe because of the shaping (and it has cable indents), but maybe also just because they end up being ordered in small quantities and you either pay the hipster tax or the import duty. Very annoying. But they are great bars.

Kinoko have them in black.

SJS have the Soma Highway 1 in black- for ~£70 less.

Nitto or Soma?

The Soma Hwy One is a cheap alternative to the M106, been wanting to try the Soma but currently in between jobs and all my money is in stupid NJS bling.

I've gone on about the two loads on here. I have the Somas on one bike and the M106 on another. The Somas are ok. Fine, even. But they are an order of magnitude more flexy than the Nittos. And I prefer the curve of the M106, it's quite a bit tighter, more compact.

Nitto's ordered.

Anyone want some Noodles?