Mechanics and Fixing Any Questions Answered

TLPR. Cinelli MTB had Italian square taper BB with Campag triple. Thread went drive side. LBS stuck shimano triple on with bolt inserted into BB to keep it tight. Shitty triple teeth getting pointy, want to go back to Campag triple with threaded retention drive side. Steel. Help!

You always have the option of a threadless BB.

Actually I'm not sure where your issue is. Where did the thread die initially? On the crank or the BB shell?

Drive side BB shell thread is gone.

Drive side BB shell thread is gone

That's a repairable failure on a steel frame, but it's going to need new paint too. Do you love the bike enough to spend that much on it? If you go that route, consider whether you want to keep the "correct" but inferior Italian threading or convert to the superior and more convenient ISO/BSC threads

I'd go threadless for a simpler cheaper fix.

You'll need blue (or red) loctite to prevent the BB's internal threads gradually working loose, and two Shimano splined BB tools because you tighten both sides of the BB at the same time. I would recommend 40-50Nm ish unless they specify a torque.

I've only seen JIS (Shimano) taper versions and not ISO (Campagnolo) taper versions, but JIS will be fine on Campagnolo cranks if you use a slightly shorter spindle than specified. How much shorter is an unresolved debate, but the range is 2-8 mm shorter depending on the website you're reading.

This is all assuming that the Campagnolo cranks require a symmetric BB. If not then it adds another fun later of complexity to your spindle length calcs.

Cheers. Threadless seems simpler option so food for thought and work for LBS. Re. changing out BB shell that’s drastic but would be a Varohna job like rear dropouts were a couple of years ago.

Looking to bring a rear wheel back into service. I discovered one of the end caps missing, how do I know which size/shape to go for to get this running quick release on a standard road frame again?

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Look like they might be Bitex hubs..

Will I die in a fireball if I ride on corroded rims?

Inherited a functional wheelset for moderate gravel use (Pacenti CL25 rims) and there’s some corrosion around every nipple. Setting these up tubeless is probably a no-hope thanks to a lovely dent elsewhere, but would I be dumb to ride them as is? Rider weight approx 67kg so on the lighter side.

I've personally ridden such a wheel, on the rear no less and survived, it was decommissioned after the rim was tacoed from a crash.

That said, I was skint and couldn't afford a replacement. Had I been able to, yeah I would have.

Yea and nay, your call.

would I be dumb to ride them as is?

Yes. Not because of fiery death, but because you'll spend more time truing them than riding them as the spokes pull through the weakened rim one by one.

The voice of reason, thank you. My sanity is worth a hundred quid for something less annoying.

Edit: my preferred Shimano replacement option is out of stock for a little while. Will run these tubed and treat them gently in the meantime, and give up as soon as the first spoke pops. Still appreciate the feedback and encouragement to not waste any time repairing them as and when it’s needed.

Would a non boost 6mm offset chainring help, or will I run into problems with the chain hitting the smaller cogs. I've got plenty of frame clearance to play around with, so not worried about that

Noise in the biggest cog is pretty normal, especially in 1x with big cassettes. Just make sure the chainline is bang on in the middle and go from there

That's the thing, I have mismatching chainlines. Boost rear end so I used a boost chainring, but my crankset gives a 56mm chainline for the BB width. The chain isn't visibly straight until I hit maybe 8th or 9th cog. On the biggest cog, you can see the chain riding at a very sharp angle off the chainring which I think is where the noise is coming from.

I've got a bigger offset ring coming in the post, that should hopefully fix it a bit

I’m trying to find cranks for my BB30A frame. I tried some SRAM BB30 cranks but the spindle length was 68mm (vs. 73mm bb shell) so that’s not working…

There is a someone on here selling Rotor 3DF cranks. From their measurements, it looks like there is around 90mm of spindle between the crankarms (~105mm full spindle length).

Would the spindle be too long for a BB30A bb?

Does your SRAM bb30 crank have the plastic preload adjuster on the axle?
If so, remove it completely and replace with a wavey washer.

Source: I ran SRAM red exogram bb30 cranks on a caad12

No, you just add a spacer on the drive side and omit the spacer in the NDS.

Would the spindle be too long for a BB30A bb?

It will be, but there are spacers for that. Any 386EVO crank (which is what the Rotor is in effect) should work in a BB30A shell with some spacers

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I’m not running any spacers, just a bearing shield either side.
With or without the wavey washer, as soon as I go above 4nm or so with the cranks start seizing up.

If took it to a bike shop yesterday, they said the cranks were not compatible with the frame.

This is exactly what I am trying to do, find some cranks for my stupid Caad12.

My SRAM red cranks are the older model, no plastic preload adjuster.

I have the bearings, bearing shields and then cranks. With or without the wavey washer, when I torque the bolt up, the cranks start to seize up. It feels like I’m compressing the bearings.

Yes, they won't work. You specifically need the ones with the preload adjuster.

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I have a set of SRAM red 165mm cranks in my CAAD12 I’ll be selling soon if you want?

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I’m setting up a bike with sram 48/35 and then a 10-33 cassette on the rear. I have a spare wheelset that has a 10-36 cassette for gravel/off-road. I imagine 90% of the use (especially through autumn and winter) will be the road wheelset with the 10-33 cassette. Am I better having a second chain that I use with the 10-36 wheelset as and when I swap between the two or should I use just one chain, and if so will it work with the 10-33 A OK if I size it to the 10-36 cassette?

Apologies if this has been asked before, but can I use one of these cheap eBay headset/bb press kits to fit a press fit bb or do i need to get a proper tool?

E.g. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/314014102076?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=-fk9srocrem&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

Also do I need a proper tool to remove the existing bb or will I be able to get away with a piece of dowling and a hammer (or something like that)?

I have similar, the cheap press kits are great!