Mechanics and Fixing Any Questions Answered

Great tips for the aspiring bike thief though

I need to swap out the chain on my bike with Campag 11 speed. I have a spare Campag 11 speed chain but no overpriced chain tool to peen the special joining pin. Does anyone know if you can just break the chain with a normal cheapo chain tool, chuck the link with the joining pin and just use a standard kmc type 11speed missing link instead?

Your nonna will cry.

That's as maybe, but unless Nonna wants to pay for the special Campag tool, Nonna's just going to have to deal with it..

It's not going to be the thing that kills her.

Decent Ulock to the frame and ulock something hopefully secure.

More concerned about the theft of handle bars and stem, and easyiest way to stop that is glue a ball bearing in the allen bolt as these aren't something you change often.

Unfortunately theft is easy and little is done.

@psg1ben have removed, but I learnt this from bike shops when people lose the key or buy a bike with out a key.

Yeah, mechanics/shops know some good workarounds eh

It doesn’t matter what locks you use or how many. If they want your stuff they will take it. A mate had his carbon frame and forks smashed to bits, the wheels and bits of smashed carbon were all they left. Parts are worth big money on there own now and are pretty much untraceable.
I now always put one lock thought the chain, at least it will slow them down a bit.

The idea is that the thief moves on to another bike instead of yours.
But then theft of bikes off people is on the increase.

@psg1ben look at car locking wheel nuts and how easy it is to get hold of removal tools.

Nonna can rest easy. Use any old chain breaker then a missing link.

I fully get the move on to the next bike bit about locks, but with a battery grinder even triple locking your bike isn’t going to stop them having your £2k groupo away. It takes a second to cut through any tube on the frame or forks and about 5 seconds to go through a rim and tyre. If they want your stuff they will take your stuff.

Chainline question: I have a 148 boost frame running 12spd cassette. I've got an 83mm BB with cranks and that give me a 56mm chainline, and a boost chainring. The chainline in the largest sprocket is awful, even though I've already moved the BB inboard by using 1 DS and 2 NDS spacers (Hope say it should be the other way round, but chain wouldn't stay on when backpedalling)
Would a non boost 6mm offset chainring help, or will I run into problems with the chain hitting the smaller cogs. I've got plenty of frame clearance to play around with, so not worried about that

52mm is the standard Boost chainline, some bikes have now moved to 55mm for whatever reason. So you shouldn’t run into any issues with an offset chainring. I’m not sure what combo of things you’ve assembled to reach 56mm though. Back pedalling shouldn’t really be a concern unless you’re riding trials or super techy stuff.

They're Hope non-Evo cranks with a 155mm spindle, which is what the frame came with. They do a 140mm spindle for boost 52mm chainline, but I can't see that being long enough for the BB shell width.

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It basically grinds like fuck in the largest cogs, so I'm trying to make it sound not as shit

Bought some second hand r7000 mechanical shifters. Having issue with the left lever for front derailleur. Installed everything as normal, and can't shift up to the big ring without having to depress the brake lever a little. Down shifts are fine.
Thought issue is with cable tension so redid this as right as I can with everything downshifted. Still can't shift up to big ring.

When no cables attached the lever moves freely as it should . But as soon as I feed the cable through and either pull on it or leave it free, instantly I can't shift the lever to move to the big ring.

Is the lever a dud? Anything else I can try?

If they want your stuff they will take your stuff.

The idea is that they have no market to sell the stuff. But as motorbike spares proved, no one gives a shit as long as the parts are cheap.

do you feel like there is some play on the lever ? around the axle it pivots around ?

i had that on a hydro shifter i bought second hand, ultimately it was broken. could be totally different obviously.

If they want your stuff they will take your stuff.

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This is common place tbh. I build a fair number of custom gravel and mtb, and most of thrm will make a noise under load in the easiest casette gear, especially with these 50t+ jobs.
Some rings make less noise, some rings last longer.
Try a 3mm or 6mm offset ring if its really bad, but beware that they always make noise when new. Once ring has some gritty miles on it they usually become quiet enough to be a non issue.

Hope evo cranks are good, a mftr that has always shared technical info and made it as clear as poss which part is the right one for the job. Unlike so many other that make it a right pita.

I'm already using a 3mm offset ring, but have bought a 6mm to see if that makes things any better. Tbh, it's previously been quite quiet, but only recently starting soundy grumpy. The only thing that changed was switching chain lube, oddly.
I've not checked the hanger alignment either, but it's actually shifting fine. Just a low rumble of chain dis/engaging under load, and moreseo in larger cog.

I'll probably just not bother pedaling anymore, that's the simplest fix

Yeah try it out.
Beware muc off wet and urban and other veg oil based lube, causes the chain to become very sticky and reduces the amount of sideways flex is meant to have to give good gear shifting. Come across loads of bikes where the only thing wrong with it is needs all the old congealed chain lube off it.

I wouldn't put any MucOff stuff near any of my bikes, don't you worry! 😂

Nano cleaner is pretty good to be fair

I'm using their tubeless sealant, it was cheap. Dunno how well it works, seems ok.

Stinks though. Think it's mean to to smell fruity but it's sickly sweet like these cunts and their douche flutes.