Mechanics and Fixing Any Questions Answered

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  • Probably not enough less than doing both sides to make it worth while.

    No idea what the actual cost will be but if you take them a frame with the bb removed it shouldn’t be much, minimum workshop charge maybe, £20 or so?

  • Quick question please - if I get a second cassette for flat vs hilly rides do I need to get a second chain to use with it so they wear at the same rate? Current chain (and cassette) has c.5000K use but in good nick. Thanks!

  • buy a 2nd bike, have one for hills and one for flat parcours

  • no, you'll be fine. many people regularly swap between wheels (me included) with no issues. But buy two bikes to save time. I believe the latest two requirments for richmond park laps are

    and

  • c.5000K

    That's not good nick, might look clean but I'd be surprised if it's not worn to the point it's worn the cassette too.
    Generally you'll be fine going between cassettes on the same chain of you keep an eye on the wear (get a wear gauge), main problem will be that it's best to properly size the chain to the cassette which will mean it's too long on the cassette for the flat and derailleur b adjust screw will be out, it'll probably still work alright though.

  • Thanks - got a chain wear indicator on the way!

  • Are all 12 speed shimano & sram chains cross compatible and will quick links work across brands as well? Jumping from 10 speed here where all stuff works regardless of brand.

  • Never tried to mix and match myself but I think the chain in Shimano is narrower

  • Can anyone tell me what I can use to remove this bottom bracket? Seems to be the same size as a cassette tool, but without the QR axle shaft?

    Any help much appreciated!


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  • Correction- it’s a similar tool, not the same tool.

  • So in theory, I could hacksaw off the QR axle shaft?

  • Noo don't do that. The splines are more like the splines you find on a Shimano/Falcon freewheel remover rather than a cassette tool. Just try to find the right tool.

  • Correction- shit I think @psg1ben is right.

  • Alright, I’ll put the hacksaw down and find a freewheel tool. Thanks for your help! :)

    @Eseman cheers, thanks for the correction!

  • You need a Park BBT5/FR11.

    Park say it’s for campy lockrings and bottom brackets but I’m 99% sure I’ve used the one at work on Shimano lockring and 100% sure I’ve used it on Miche bottom brackets.

  • The offending 3yr old bb has been removed. I used a Shimano freewheel tool, bit of elbow grease and it came off no problem. Thanks for the tip though, super helpful on a Sunday :)


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  • Sorry, wasn’t sure of the right thread to post this in and didn’t think it warranted it’s own!

    Does anyone have recommendations for an affordable stand for post-ride cleaning? I’m just looking for something cheap and cheerful really, happy for it to be a floor based one (rather than something which raises the bike to head height) if that helps.

  • Snapped a bottle mount bolt when trying to loosen it today - don’t think it had ever been used, probably completely oxidised closed. Anyone had any success removing a snapped alloy bolt from a carbon frame?

  • You can drill it and tap it again depending on location

  • Having a lot of success right now with apex drill bits and chronos eze out extractors for broken bolt removal.

  • You can build something like this pretty easily?


  • Any cheap and easy solutions for blocking off some unused di2 ports on a carbon frame?
    My Scott Addict frame has a big old hole at the bottom, I guess for an old school external di2 battery and cable routing.

  • Sugru?

  • I want to remove the conical spacer (20mm) plus a 5mm spacer to leave room for 5mm below the stem and a 10mm spacer above while I get my fit right.

    Is it safe to assume I simply remove the fork, remove the bung and chop 25mm with a hacksaw using an old stem as a guide.


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Mechanics and Fixing Any Questions Answered

Posted by Avatar for OmarLittle @OmarLittle

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