Mechanics and Fixing Any Questions Answered

Damper has definitely not shit the bed yet, the spring is holding air and the forks are generally doing their main job ie bouncing up and down as the 9 yo user rides around randomly, yelling 'yay, bouncy forks'. It does however have a bit of irritating stiction going on and some blackish oil or grease is frequently visible on the uppers. New seals are £5-ish and I've got a can of fork oil on the shelf so I figured why not.

Shimano RX31 Wheels - are the thru-axle and QR rear hub shells the same?

Wondering if buying the QR axle assembly would allow a 12 x 142 rear wheel to be fitted to a 135mm QR dropout. Otherwise any suggestions less hassle than finding someone to turn 3.5mm off each locknut?

It’s not looking good for the guy who brought in a ‘Colnago’ to build up with full Dura Ace and Ultegra Di2. Chap at Windwave suggested strongly it’s a fake, to be confirmed. Never seen a fake Colnago before so didn’t even cross my mind even when the lettering seemed a bit, off. Now I’m just pissed off at the damned thing for the time I wasted.

I had a nasty feeling that might be the case. Still might be a half-decent bike. Just not worth the Colnago tax he probably paid for it if he thought it was genuine.

Now I’m just pissed off at the damned thing for the time I wasted.

Smash it to bits, hand it back in a carrier bag. Say Windwave made you do it to prevent the proliferation of fakes, a la Rolex.

Where can I find M3 / M4 allen bolts, nuts and washers? And emery paper?

Ideally near Fitzrovia, Victoria or Battersea.

Clerkenwell Screws

A million grazies

Cool place, this.

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I’ve told him it could be ok or it could crumple hitting a pothole at 50km/h. Seems he paid four figures for it, but with a bank card so hopefully his card company will have his back. I offered to refund the parts, discounting sunk labour, but still sucks for everyone.

I’m now battling an S-Works Tarmac with Dura-Ace 9170 hydro brakes that scream like banshees. Decontaminated rotors and replaced one calliper (comes with new pads), and the damn thing still squeals at low speeds. Waiting on new ice rotors, and if that doesn’t work....

I’ve told him it could be ok or it could crumple hitting a pothole at 50km/h.

Fair analysis. I've had no problems with generic Chinese carbon frames, but the knock-offs merchants are by definition not the most reputable of characters.

Seems he paid four figures for it, but with a bank card so hopefully his card company will have his back.

Ouch. Here's hoping...

I offered to refund the parts, discounting sunk labour, but still sucks for everyone.

Generous. Kudos and chapeau.

So the experience with my Veloci continues and now it seems that the hanger is too wide. I can’t get my rival 1 all the way to the big cog. Veloci says to contact seller because it is perfect with Sram (Trump maybe was the marketing guy here)

So know I think about milling the hanger down. It’s 9mm thick. I wanted to go for 3mm but maybe better just take 2.5 of.

Did anyone do it before or does anything strongly suggest to not do that? Since I just have no other idea. 6.5mm thickness might still work.

A video of the issue here:

https://i.imgur.com/ofbonZv.mp4

Surely that’s more to do with the thickness of the dropout/that kinda spacer thing that was an issue earlier?

It's about the same thing I guess. Because it's a 2 part dropout/hanger. But that should be not a problem if the wheel is in place, since the spacing from Dropout/hanger should be "normal" now?!

It couldn't be a spacing issue with the XD freehub, could it? I don't think so because its a screw on Cassette and even sram uses the XG-1150 with the xd and rival 1 alot.

Unfortunately Veloci is not keen about helping and refers me to the shop. Shop is a nice one but totally overwhelmed with work and can't really reply.

I just want to ride it :(

Yeah I guess so.

Just seems like in that video you have a really big gap between the smallest cog on the cassette and the frame.

I’m not so up on gears especially as modern as this though so I could be wrong.

Just seems like in that video you have a really big gap between the smallest cog on the cassette and the frame.

It does look like that, does the disc rotor line up properly and does the wheel seem properly dished? Does the hub have removable end caps and are they on the correct sides?

Rotor lines up, it’s no end caps but an axle which was fitted and used in another Rival 1 build before. I noticed the gap but found no way to make it smaller.

i had that exact issue recently with campag and what turned out to be a repaired carbon frame.

reducing the thickness of the hanger to move the mech inwards is the answer in your case, i guess. when i raised my issue, the thought was that the mech should be attached in line with the inside of the dropout, and in your case it's a good 5mm(?) outside that.

What rear mech is it?

Are you sure it’s the low limit screw you have undone?

https://forums.mtbr.com/drivetrain-shifters-derailleurs-cranks/sram-gx-1x11-rear-mech-limit-screws-1043878.html

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Sram Rival 1 3.0 with the long cage. And I’m pretty certain to have used the right screw.

Everything is sorted now, not quite sure if it’s 100% the right way but it works and looks quite nice as well.

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What’s the forum recommended cable cutting device? My snips are shit and really not coping with compression-less housing :(

I use the Park Tool cutter & tidy up with a Dremel if required.

Have a frame incoming that I'd like to put a front derailleur on, however it has no braze on for an FD mount. Product spec says 28.6 band clamp required. Was thinking of putting a Force AXS 2x group on it which doesn't appear to offer any form of band clamp with the FD. Is there a recommended adapter or should I be looking for a groupset which has a band on front mech available?

I'm trying to build a machine from the parts bin and wondered will this setup work?
10 speed MTB 11-42 cassette
Deore RD-M772 long cage 9 speed (I think SGS) 45 capacity and max tooth 34.
Ultegra 3*10 shifters
Shimano FD 105 9 speed double
105 double chainset 50/34
10 speed chain

Will the above work? my main concerns are shifter/RD and RD / cassette.
The difference in capacities is 47 and the official capacity of the RD is 45(?) but loads of people on Reddit saying it works with a longer B screw and no Roadlink required. I do have a Roadlink (somewhere in the shed) to throw into the mix if required.

Anybody got experience of this sort of setup or input?
Cheers

Looking at pics of the rd it looks to have the newer type of cable routing (shadow)

But the 10 speed ultegra derailleur which your shifters were designed for, has the old school cable routing:

So I don't think that combo will work.