Mechanics and Fixing Any Questions Answered

On the seatstay proper or on the dropout/seatstay?

First thoughts:
Wheel seated properly?
Bent hanger or derailleur?
Hub loose or not centred on axle?
Freehub loose?
H Limit screw?
Loose cassette?
Really strange chain line?

Also, a sunrace on a Chris king??

Everything is fitted properly but it seems that the cassette sits closer to the dropout on this CK 130mm hub than the previous 135mm Deore...

What size wheel is meant to go in the frame?

130, BB 68mm

Thinking of drilling aluminium fork to add a brake to track frame.
Is it a simple enough job at home or one for the bike shop? My only real concern is not having the proper tools (drill press/proper vice).
Any advice super helpful.
Cheers :)

You may risk opening a can of worms and killing a puppy. You always have the option to source a fork that is designed for a brake.

If you do drill it, I recommend using a centre punch to mark the holes and I recommend starting with a 2-3 mm drill bit and working up incrementally to the size you need. This would be my way to avoid misalignment.

Thanks so much! Thinking if I do go for it I'll just keep it real and go for no brakes.

Are single chainring bolts all the same length or is there a specific length I need for a standard 144bcd track chainring?
For example, would these work? https://www.wolftoothcomponents.com/products/set-of-5-chainring-bolts-nuts-for-1x

For road use a bike needs 2 brakes

Don’t be a Charlie Alliston

Hello mechanic friends.
If I place a regular thick plastic cassette spacer behind the cassette to tighten down a 10 speed cassette on a Mavic wheel am I asking for trouble? It tightened fine and everything is indexing correctly but will it eventually fail?

As long as:

• The lockring is engaging enough threads on the freehub (at least 2 full turns)
  
• The smallest sprocket is engaging with the end of the splines
  
• The chain and lockring are n't touching the frame.
  
  

You're probably ok.

I'll just keep it real stupid and go for no brakes.

fixed that for you.

You know ppl have literally killed others and had to do jail time for keeping it real?

Ah! This... Soz... Repost.

I've fitted a Praxis M30 BDA BB with Zaynte crankset, feels really draggy.

I've tried both 1mm and 2mm spacers between the cup and crankset.

Has anyone had this with these BBs?

Thanks, appreciate it!

Mechanical problem that’s got me stumped. Fitted a new wheelset with an 11-42 cassette I was using on the old wheelset along with a
sram Force 1 derailleur to replace a Rival 1 one and a new chain. As far as I can tell the free hub body is a regular sram/Shimano one. Problem is I can’t get the chain to stay up in the 42t cog. Tried all the usual possibilities: low/high limit screws, cable tension, b-adjustment screw and no luck. The old derailleur had no problem using the same cassette so I assume that it’s not the mech hanger that’s the problem and both derailleurs are long cage models. From what I can see with the chain off it looks the derailleur doesn’t have enough swing to line up underneath the largest cog even with the limit screw wound right out. I’m pretty certain that the cassette doesn’t need a spacer but I also tried that and no dice. Any suggestions?

It’s probably the alignment or dish of the wheel. Any way you can shift the hub over to make it reach? May have to fiddle with spacers and adjust the spokes so the rim is centred in the frame.

Using a spacer would be the easy option if possible but you say you tried that

Hmmm that had come to my mind but then if the dishing was radically different surely the disc caliper would have also required quite a bit of moving and it barely had any rub (used the same rotor as well.). The problem with the spacer behind the cassette was that when I tightened the thru-axle up it restricted the movement of the free hub itself.

If the wheel is compatible with 11- speed road cassettes it needs a 1.8mm spacer for an MTB cassette.

Maybe the spacer is too thick?

Thanks! Again I thought that the spacer might be too thick but in theory this cassette whilst being 11-42 is from the Sram road series and when used on my other wheelset (hunt, so a novatec hub) doesn’t need a spacer?

Measuring the spacer I tried by eye with a ruler it seems to be 2mm thick.

Does anybody have any idea what I can do with this. It’s a v-brake calliper and the brake boss. It would appear that the v-brake bolts are too long for the brake boss as I can’t tighten up the bolt, but I only worked this out after I’d gone too far and now I’m unable to undo the bolt and it just unthreaded itself from the frame.

I don’t have any tools narrow enough to get to the flat part of the brake boss to get a grip on it.

It would be good to save the boss and the calliper if possible?

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Only thing that I can think to do is to thread 2 or more nuts onto the brake boss threads and then tighten them together with high torque. Then grip this pair of nuts with a spanner and try to undo to the brake caliper bolt.

...or grip the brake boss bolt in an axle vice with soft jaws or an inner tube as protection.

Big vice and an impact driver.