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• #502
That Paul brake is fugly.
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• #503
But it comes in rad colours.
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• #504
How rad?
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• #505
rad rad
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• #506
did a 75 mile group ride yesterday,
anyone who says fat tyres slow you down at 'club' level are talking rubbish
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• #507
Really? I thought the massive rolling resistant would be too much to keep up at club pace.
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• #508
Hahaha self troll is obvious
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• #509
The vast drag of the tyres was probably offset by the aerodynamic advantage of being dressed in ladies Rapha
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• #510
No ladies rapha was worn on this trip
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• #511
Right, I think I've got all these weights correct, and excluding the frame that comes to 6.5kg, but the bike currently weights 9.3kg, and I dont think an 853 frame is 2.8kg?
What have I got wrong? I'd like to get it down from 9.3 to 8.5 or less but struggling with how thats going to be possible.
Unless its my luggage scale thats out
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• #512
Should clarify, the weight loss would be putting it into 'roadie', so obviously theres at least 300 grams in tyre savings, I need a lighter saddle for sure, I'm switching to CX9's and getting rid of the hangers which will lose ~50g but still not getting close to 8.5
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• #513
Main things jumping out are seatpost, easy 100gram loss there if you go carbon; saddle, 400grams?! most moderns can help lose another 200; pedals, get some 105's and then add ti-spindles.com spindles; garmin mount, search tillquist mount, you can get a very flashy nice and light, 9 gram one from him.
then just search for bargains on ebay etc for groupset parts
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• #514
Cable and housing, rims tape, inner tube, bar tape etc.
Advice - just forget about it and enjoy the bike, if you're serious, upgrade the tyres to a lighter better one with lighter butyl inner tube.
Or your long term goal could be to put Pacenti SL-23, or the HED Ardennes Plus.
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• #515
Are you relying on manufacturers quoted weights? Most of them are 'optimistic' I'd say.
A frame of your size in 853 should weigh about 1800g with paint - BUT you did go for a massive headtube - which - adds a lot of weight (The bigger the headtube - the thicker the walls need to be - to avoid the 'coke can effect') so maybe 1900g?
I can tell you now, there is no way your wheelset weighs 1600g - It will be more like 1800g (Unless you used superlight spokes and alloy nips?)
^^ Like Ed said, You have a great all-round bombproof bike, with sensible components. Any weight saving you make (aside the tyres) will not be felt riding. Once you go gram-hunting you'll end up frustrated with the best parts of your bike! (The frame and the wheels). Ride and Smile
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• #516
Yeah theyre manufacturer weights, it needs a good clean after an accidental cross ride last week so maybe i'll do some weighing
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• #517
wheelset inc tyres, tubes, tape and cassette is a whopping 3.05kg
saddle+seatpost is 510g so not as heavy as first through, so yeah wheels is definitely the biggest loser.
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• #518
Surely new road orientated wheelset and tyres are what you need then?
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• #519
for sure
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• #520
Will you be ok with non-narrow rims? If so Kinlin XR200 20/24 Sapim CX rays on BHS hubs is the lightest alu clincher combination I can think of .. And then Ultremo ZX 25/28mm cant be bothered with math but that works out 1800-something grams
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• #521
What were your old wheels? Hope to Archetype?
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• #522
current hope to archetype yeah
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• #524
^ haha I've got that too ;d
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• #525
Good decision Rogan.
You can always get the Minimoto to keep up with the NAHBS theme of your bike, otherwise the cheap Shimano mini-v will do the job.