My Talbot

Building wheels, with gloves on?

Mind. Blown.

Quite normal ;)

^^ Never heard of occupational skin problems. It's a common problem for people working with their hands everyday in contact with oil, grease, solvents and degreasing agents ..

Aye fair enough. I hate gloves personally and can't imagine building a wheel with them on. Too fiddly. Guess I'm lucky in the skin dept, have managed years of working at hairdressing and bike meching without needing them.

Aye fair enough. I hate gloves personally and can't imagine building a wheel with them on. Too fiddly. Guess I'm lucky in the skin dept, have managed years of working at hairdressing and bike meching without needing them.

Workplace practice innit, one rash and that company's sued for £1Brazilian

...unless its the guy himself building the wheel, I don't know I really haven't paid any attention whatsoever embarrassed face

just get the basic, can always be resprayed when you have more cash or a perfect idea. black is best

Yeah I think thats what I'm going to go for, one day I'd like to get it painted by cromaworks/field cycles

I need some FD advice

I have 2012 YAW red shifters, so theres no trim stop.

Reviews say that DA7900 FD is fine other than rubbing in small small

Im going top tube cable routing on the rear deraileur and brake and have the option of top or downtube for the rear,

If i went for top tube for FD i'd need to get the SHimano CX70 top pull FD

My other option is to just get the red yaw fd..

• Red YAW £95
  
• 7900 £40
  
• CX70 £25
  
  

Really no idea..

Why would you pay £40 for a derailleur that rubs?

anything under the YAW is going to rub in the small small not like im ever going to use the small small i guess thats the point.

Theres also the possibility of using the SRAM Force 22 YAW at ~£45

However no ones tried the 11 speed front mechs with the 10 speed shifters or cranks

Oh, sorry - I misread that as small-big, not small-small.

Personally I'd go force.

£45 guinea pig test though

Actually I really don't think I'm helping. You can't just use a 10 speed force?

Cross bikes used to reverse the direction of the cable by a pulley wheel mounted on a braze on below the front mech .. don't know if they still do .. which would allow you to have top cable run and standard road mechs

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Actually I really don't think I'm helping. You can't just use a 10 speed force?

Would be worse than the 7900 mech according to compatibility test, the old force is like using the old red mech (pre YAW) which needs trimming

Cross bikes used to reverse the direction of the cable by a pulley wheel mounted on a braze on below the front mech .. don't know if they still do .. which would allow you to have top cable run and standard road mechs

matt said this is possible, just a bit ugly.

crud under the bb shell won't affect shifting though

^ exactly, he said its a non issue with the FD, the top tube for the RD is purely a cosmetic decision as well as its a bit more susceptible than the FD

Would be worse than the 7900 mech according to compatibility test, the old force is like using the old red mech (pre YAW) which needs trimming

Wow, okay, I can see why you're confused. I hadn't realised it got so complicated, my bad.

Not very helpful I know, but this is one of the advantages of removing tensioned cables from the transmission.

I.e, buy di2 ;)?

Or the hydraulic stuff, which looks very interesting.

can i get it for sub £50?

Possibly, depends what else you offer them.

i mid 90s aluminium frame in midget size.