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I prefer the previous version of Force cranks without the graphic. But like Dammit says, if I was going to go to the trouble of changing the cranks now it should probably be for all silver to be worth the effort. Which I'm pretty sure restricts me to Athena only (or tracking down an old Rival pair, which I can't really be bothered rto do). Or bead blasting the Rotors, which is probably more trouble than it's worth.
I should probably stop worrying about it for a while and just enjoy riding it as it is really... -
Yeah, fair enough. I forgot to add, I wasn't sure about the cranks at all when you posted the original picture but they're definitely growing on me, on the bike. Overall, very nice!
My biggest concerned with the Rotors is they feel a bit long, though they're only 2.5mm longer than my previous ones and the internet tells me I shouldn't be able to even notice this, so it may be in my head...
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Personnally I like the red spider and crank bolt .. my critic being the same as it is for all rotors, the horrid graphics on the arms. There was a track bike in the p0rn thread where the owner had sprayed rotor track crank black and it totally changed the look
and the graphics of course... I like the actual shape so I'm quite into the idea of covering up the graphics. However at the moment I want to avoid doing anything that'll make it harder to resell them if I decide to switch them out entirely.
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Tune smart foot in silver.
Not cheap though.
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the picture with cranks on the bike gives me the hint OP bought cranks already.
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Yeah. Massive overkill. Still, I use my middle age to justify the shinny bike things, my performance could never come close to justifying. At least I'm not buying a sports car.......
Personnally I'd grab a Sram Force crankset, and polish it.
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Fair point.
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Currently I think that might be the nicest option, though it could also look horrible if done badly and I don't have tons of time these days. I think best option is to keep riding it for a while and make sure I'm totally happy with the cranks before going to that sort of effort.
It's annoying that Rotor go to so much trouble laser etching such bad graphics.
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http://i.ebayimg.com/t/Sram-Rival-Compact-50-34-chainset-and-GXP-BB-/00/s/MTIwMFgxNjAw/z/LIIAAOxyiBpSJhZc/$(KGrHqF,!lMFIO5H3RM0BSJhZbSkGg~~60_12.JPG
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/321200215274?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649Would rival cranks be no good? (not my auction)
yes, they would... I wish these had come up back when I was shopping for bike bits as was keeping an eye out for that whole group. I'll give it some thought...
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Really like your build. Good looking bike (except saddle, but comfort does out weigh aesthetic), the talbot builds I've seen on here are really swaying me to give Matt a call. Just to be a boring sad twat, any idea what the finished weight is?
To also be quite sad, we did weigh it before leaving the shop. 8.36 kilos without pedals (or bottle cage if you're being really fussy).
The groupset's obviously pretty light, but didn't go superlight on wheels or anything. Also the frame geometry will mean it won't be the lightest of Matt's builds - sloping top tube, etc would get that down further. I had to go for more traditional geometry to allow for my t-rex like proportions,
Never thought a Ti Swift would be so controversial... I genuinely like the way they look as well as the comfort.What sort of frame are you considering? Definitely worth getting in touch with Matt and talking over options.
My only regret was that I took so long purchasing random bits of groupset off ebay that I've only just got it ready to ride as the summer appears to have come to an abrupt end.
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Cheers for that.
Will be a road frame, 853, not sure on wishbone stays, may go for summat more traditional. Thinking a pretty basic build, Rival groupset, mavic op, easton or bontrager bits, nowt fancy, just a frame that fits to thrash around the peaks.
Just waiting for some cash to come through then will give Matt a call and venture south for a fitting and a brew. -
From the website:
"We also know that frames in generic sizes are often (if not mostly) unhappy compromises for the end user, either resulting in discomfort, loss of power, or having to compensate with componentry (longer/shorter stem, offset seat pins etc..)"
I thought that was interesting as most of the talbot builds appear to have inline posts whereas other builders (Rourke especially) and Pegoretti for example favour the use of setback seatposts. (more power through the pedals and less weight through the bars?)The build does look great and the owner says it fits really well but it does look like the rider would be in a position that puts a lot of weight through the bars.
(not a criticism - just an observation!) -
Cheers for that.
Will be a road frame, 853, not sure on wishbone stays, may go for summat more traditional. Thinking a pretty basic build, Rival groupset, mavic op, easton or bontrager bits, nowt fancy, just a frame that fits to thrash around the peaks.
Just waiting for some cash to come through then will give Matt a call and venture south for a fitting and a brew.I'm sure he'd be happy to do something non-wishbone - most people seemed to be going for wishbones so he might like the variety. I know he's getting quite a few orders, so definitely worth getting booked in soon - unless he's changed things since I ordered, you only need to pay a deposit upfront. Obviously I gained from getting the early price discount offer, but I believe he's still pretty competitive compared to a lot of other builders.
As for inline/non-inline - I insisted on inline because I like the way they look ... (or at least I'm not keen on the Thomson setback ones and wanted it to match the stem). As far as geometry goes I know it's something Matt's happy to discuss at length and make sure is absolutely right. I start to get confused when it comes to the more precise details of bike fit - All I know is that it feels very good to ride and didn't give me the back pain I used to get (and allows me to be fashionably spacer free).
I really want need to find the time to do a 100 mile + ride and see how it feels after that.
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Don't mind waiting if his order book is filling up, can't rush craftsmanship, and if Matt is getting busier, fookin brilliant, another English artisan with a viable business and product.
As for fit/aesthetic if a bike feels/looks right with an inline then use that, fore/aft adjustments can be made by moving a saddle, really rather simple. And I agree the Thomson lay back posts look shit.
When I have a frame built it will quite possibly be my last bike, the good lady seems to think the 3 I have now is excessive, so don't wanna push it too far. So really don't mind waiting, may have to be a black bike so it blends in with the others in the garage, and hope she doesn't notice for a while.
Happy riding, your build has influenced my decision. Enjoy. -
Haven't managed to do more than two proper rides on this due to family duties followed by a bad cold (which started on Friday, just in time to ruin my plans for a weekend of riding). So instead have been using it as an excuse to practise photographing inanimate objects, which turns out to be quite hard, particularly when they've got a reflective metallic finish that looks great in real life, but tends to photograph weirdly.
Anyway, I thought I'd post them here as further encouragement for anyone thinking about getting a Talbot frame.
PhilPub
Oswald
Smallfurry
1000archangels
hugo7
root
jontea
johnnettles
Gndlf-
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Talbot Frameworks custom road frame
Posted by
@ad441
How about SRAM Force rather than SRAM Red?