Power Meters / Powermeters (SRM, Powertap, Quarq, Ergomo, Vector, Stages, power2max, P2M, 4iii, InPower, Cinch)

....they might've been in front....

This^
In a Group start race the average speeds of a Group that started and finished together will be similar. But Power output can differ greatly. Theres a ton of tricks and factors to consider.

EG. Slidding.
If the Group is pretty big, and the course undulating. You can even compensate for being a fatty on the Climbs by 'slidding'. Work Your way to the front in the shelter of the Group on the flat/downhill, when (providing you're sheltered) the extra speed is cheap. Then slowly drift back on the Climbs till you hit the back of the Group, when speed is expensive.
Repeat.
Succeed.

Suicide attack at 0k mark. Succeed.

Not at my miserable FTP.
Hide away, steal water, scroundge food. Attack from the back.

I hear you coming. I use your wheel. Attack. Succeed. I use your skin for luggage.

"It places the lotion in the basket."

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0CQokgv0dQw

Nice

Fair shout.

Pretty sure I'm small enough to count as hand luggage.

On a powermeter note. My P2M ran out of juice on Sunday, 2km from a peak. How much of a warning shoudl I of expected. It did glow red. But I thought maybe it should of flashed or something before I left.

That's annoying, did your Garmin not give you a "battery low in powermeter" warning?

I was exhusted, and the weather had turned ugly. I'm pretty sure I was barely scraping together 150w at that point. So no great loss.

It was the battery low warning I was wandering about. I had my 920xt on my wrist. I Guess its possible I missed it. But I was checking it periodically.

The more annoying thing. Is that my New frames BB area to too fat to allow a battery change without dropping the cranks out. I Guess as this is the first battery I've used up. Its not going to be a massive problem.

I also forgot to calibrate the powermeter With my New garmin, and posted a max Power value of around 17,000w, and a TSS well over 2000. Which may not be entirely accurate.

+/- 1%

My data seems to be fine in TP. Despite the insane numbers my garmin threw at me. Finished With a TSB of -115. Bit tired.

On Saturday I partially tore my left achilles. Following the map, and Power Balance. I started the Climb favouring my left by a pretty big, and uncharacteristic (I'm right legged), 57.5%. Then it tore, and I returned to a more normal 51/49 R/L. I find this pretty interesting. But considering the low wattage of the Climb. Cant really make any sense of it.

Lol at garmin 500 trying to auto-zero the track PT whilst pedaling.

What was their thinking with removing the ability to stop auto-zero? Seems a bit boneheaded.

Yes, is mega stupido.

garmin
a bit boneheaded

You have your answer.

From reading around it seems that in a world where there are no track powertaps it kinda makes sense. Kinda.

I don't have a speed sensor attached. If I disable GPS will it effectively disable auto-zero? It would be nice to know the conditions where it tries it. Assume it's Speed > 0 Torque = 0

Can I revert back to Firmware 2.8?

The garmin 1000 seems to have a screen Lock option that pops up whenever you touch the bottom of the screen. Nice. Unless you have something you'd very much like to Select at the bottom of the screen.

OH how we LOL'd.

I'm sure that I've turned it off on mine? Certainly never had it try to auto zero.

Noob racing with power questions on the lines of my first question which was

If a person X and person Y has same average, max speed, HR and cadence over the race but person Y is outputting more power it generally means they have similar watts/kg ratio right?

I came across fellow racer's data who did better than I did. What I am trying to figure out what can I do to be at the better end of the race? I can produce more/same power as that person; should I work on strategy more? I am still finding it hard to move ahead in bunch without being a dick and/or holding the line. People who have done better in these races have conserved and then went off; what I need to know at what point should I stop conserving and how should I progress?

They are more of self reflective questions but any shared experience would be nice.

Gut instinct and experience.

You used to be able to, up to firmware update 3.0, when the removed the feature, as they thought it was a mistake, according to the release notes.

I'm not sure any head unit actually lets you know when it tries to auto-zero, which is a shame. But at then end of my stop-start 3 mile ride to work I was producing 40 watt whilst stationary, apparently, so some weirdness definately went down.

I knew it wasn't going to work with the 500 but the battery was flat in my PC7. From reading around I'm not even sure it work with a PC7, so I might need to get a new head unit. Awesome.

Fair.
Thats what I thought; so basically keep racing.

Yeah this isn't a power question, really. @amey I wouldn't expect too much too soon in terms of results.

This is exactly my experience of the 800. Fenix II works though.