Power Meters / Powermeters (SRM, Powertap, Quarq, Ergomo, Vector, Stages, power2max, P2M, 4iii, InPower, Cinch)

Then again, if it's the same 24h Powertap Pro Track hub I bought from Evans about a year ago, it'll be going straight back again - there was something deeply wrong with that hub, to the point that it was very reluctant to turn. Here's hoping it's not...

Powertap G3C (the ceramic bearing version) is also £450:

http://www.evanscycles.com/products/cycleops/powertap-g3c-shimano-sram-hub-ec035999

Cheaper than the non-ceramic bearing version.....

Uff

Only for 32 hole though, otherwise I would've got that instead...

And these are not 11 speed?

And these are not 11 speed?

Not sure - but replacement 11speed freehubs are $100

If one was calculating FTP from a 10 mile tt would it be better to use average power 256 or normalised power 266?

AP. However, be aware that if you were doing an hour effort you might be able to have NP a bit higher than your AP estimate.

After all, it's only an estimate by extrapolation. So not accurate to minimal degree.

crap - missed out on PT track hubs at silly price while I was away :(

If one was calculating FTP from a 10 mile tt would it be better to use average power 256 or normalised power 266?

Relative to the 8 or 20 min test value that most use, An actual hour effort is a bit harder.

So I'd add a bit.

Just me.

My FTP is currently 280 based on a 20min smashed effort with the fixed gear on the turbo. On the road bike outside id struggle to achive that without a nice hour long climb of appropriate gradient. Even then its a bloody tough effort for me.

auto update zones/threshold in TP - yay or nay?

I've got it turned on, but that's largely because I'm lazy rather than as a result of any scientific analysis of the two options.

Off for me, as I wanted to manually enter an FTP.

I am having some issues with my SRM.

Anyone have any experience of troubleshooting them?

I'm positive that it's a cadence sensor issue.

Here's an example- going up a hill, power is reading (when it's reading) ~130 watts, then jumps to ~330 watts at the end, which agreed with what my legs were telling me.

Those cadence Drop outs do look odd...

Cadence and power both stop as I accelerate uphill.

I think that is odd, yes.

I moved the SRM magnet bracket back a little from the back-cover, then put a rare earth magnet on it, validated that I had power/cadence.

Lets see if a stronger magnet does the job.

Then again, if it's the same 24h Powertap Pro Track hub I bought from Evans about a year ago, it'll be going straight back again - there was something deeply wrong with that hub, to the point that it was very reluctant to turn. Here's hoping it's not...

Does feel stiff to turn, but perhaps that'll change when it's in a frame?

so jel.

Need a rim? I have a 88mm PX tub rim that's never been built up.

Gonna go clincher and wide, it's going to have wheel covers so might as well just go shallow. Cheers though.

You say that. But an 808 covered is more aero than an box rim covered.

See aero weenie

Yeah but i'd imagine that's for a geared wheel, which won't have a true lenticular profile like what mine will cos of dishing. 23mm rim should give me a profile similar to a Zipp Super-9.

You say that. But an 808 covered is more aero than an box rim covered.
See aero weenie

Yeah but it's the rear and as a % of total you're probably better off buying the cheaper box rim and spending the difference on a better skinsuit. Everyone wants sexier wheels not tighter skinsuits though..

Ah but what skin suit. We all know that different skin suits have different performance benefit in aero terms.

It doesn't matter, it'll still make more difference than rear rim choice.

Go to a tunnel and find the fastest one for you..