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• #852
Ed, is that you?!
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• #853
The issue I always had was trying to turn at speed over lumpy trails. .
Don't turn
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• #854
Don't turn
Done that a few times.
Ouch.
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• #855
readers wives
I love those forks. Narrow, tapered, straight and steel?
Any suggestions where what forks I buy for that look?
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• #856
all city?
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• #857
yep, standard all city nature boy forks. Think you can buy them from the website.
really like them.
Was tempted to try carbon cross forks for this but then decided I dont have any problem with these so didnt change.
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• #858
X . Give me that bike!
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• #859
no! I love it. its my precious
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• #860
yep, standard all city nature boy forks. Think you can buy them from the website.
Thanks.
EDIT: Can't buy them from their website, but Triton Cycles (listed on website as a UK dealer) has them for sale. Maybe Mosquito too, just around the corner from where I live, but they don't seem to sell online.
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• #861
I am making this. Waiting for Deda RHM02 bars and bartape. Frame has horizontal dropouts and no hanger so will be perfect for sscx and winter-road training gear ratio swaps. Not enough steerer to fit hanger, so will have to drill the stem. Hope that will work out fine. SSWC here I come.... in sep.
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• #862
Instead of drilling the stem (which I've noticed seems to be pretty popular lately), can you not use a fork mounted hanger?
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• #863
Great idea actually. Forks aren't drilled for caliperbrakes though.
I need to drill either way. And stem is worn so I don't mind experimenting on it.
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• #864
Yeah, I was thinking the forks might not be drilled after I posted that.
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• #865
Get some mini v's instead?
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• #866
you could also propably mount a hanger to one of those horse shoe brake booster things.
though they look a bit shit. -
• #867
You could probably DIY something like this without too much effort:
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• #868
Yes to that solution. F awesome
Alignment might be wack though. Will test soon -
• #869
I would try to do anything other than drill an alu stem. I had the same problem, not enough steerer, but it was a pomp and a new fork with lots of unused steerer was only £20, which made it hardly worth looking for other solutions, which would have cost at least half that anyway.
Although I do wish now I had saved the £20 and put it toward some better (looking) straight bladed forks.
Live and learn.
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• #870
You could probably DIY something like this without too much effort:
Please don't do this.
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• #871
Why not Ed? Looks?
Why would drilling be a problem? Forks are likely to snap before the drilled stem I reckon.. -
• #872
Why not? (aimed at Ed)
Various posts across a bunch of forums and the Radobank team used to use it (apparently). Few people mention chatter but others say it's fine.
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• #873
Because it's not the safest method, while it appear to work well on that stem, others have a tighter tolerate that have no room for the hanger.
Those hanger were designed for the seat clamp collars rather than the stem.
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• #874
Makes sense, there's a few snaps with people using Thomson stems and comments they've filed down the seat hanger where it is clamped e.g.:
http://weightweenies.starbike.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=76219
Guess it's a case of use with caution and at your own peril
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• #875
Also, if you have a long stem you'll be pulling the straddle out of plane, adding to the load on the canti mounting bolts as well as to your steerer clamp.
The issue I always had was trying to turn at speed over lumpy trails. The higher pressure needed for a CX tyre meant the front end would bounce, and hence not grip.
Its all about tyre pressure at the end of the day.