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• #1827
Ah but there's none in the UK and none which are 1/8. (but thanks)
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• #1829
As mentioned:
3/32 chainring run 100% problemfree with 1/8 chain and cog. AND is easier to get and replace.
Narrow wide chainrings are pointless if you don't use a springloaded chaintensioner.
48t is not for SSCX racing. 42t and below is more ideal.
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• #1830
Mr Fucking Brains - I salute you
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• #1831
As mentioned:
3/32 chainring run 100% problemfree with 1/8 chain and cog. AND is easier to get and replace.
Except it does created those creaking noise when there's too much gap between the chain and the cassette.
Maneged to snap a chain due to that actually (on fixed that is).
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• #1832
^disqualified - casette doesn't meet the sscx memorandum in my troubled mind.
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• #1833
^^ You don't mean cassette do you?
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• #1834
I doubt it.
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• #1835
Ideally I would like a 110bcd 48tooth ring in 1/8, to replicate the gearing I have currently (48*19) for riding on the road. I would then be able to choose from multiple options for a smaller 'ring for SSCX use.
The question is, am I looking for something that simply doesn't exist in the UK?
Goldtec do 5-arm 144, 135, 130 and 4-arm 104mm... http://www.mountainbikecomponents.co.uk/items.asp?CategoryID=32&Name=Goldtec+1%2F8th+Track+and+Single+Speed+Chainrings
BMX chainrings come in 110mm x 5, occasionally 1/8th
UK £11 but only up to 44t, 3/32nd
http://www.winstanleysbmx.com/product/8463/MCS_5Bolt_Chainring48T but USA
Amazon.com: Rocket 10H BMX Chainring Black 48T 1/2 x 1/8: Sports & Outdoors -
• #1836
Except it does created those creaking noise when there's too much gap between the chain and the cassette.
I don't think I know what you mean?
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• #1837
probably chain moving laterally on the chainrings, havent rly noticed that. Sometimes some chains rattle on narrow rings though.
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• #1838
Cupcakes- have you tried e-bay for older BMX chain rings? I got my 44t from there for about £10, maybe a larger tooth one will pop up or change you gearing to a similar ratio?
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• #1839
Rattle? TrackIsNotEvenThatSlack.
Also, if it creaks its more likely a chainline issue.
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• #1840
Interesting concept there Scoble. A shorter wheelbase would futher emphasise the quick handling i tighter situations.
I'm trying to think of downsides and as long as you can avoid toe overlap you probably only have to be content with a slightly more sloppy feeling cockpit when sprinting out of corners.
If you are going from a 110mm stem to a 130 you could also consider choosing a narrower handlebar to compensate for the increased radius between steerer and hand position.
Going further on this, an American framebuilder have build himself an all-round bike;
I wanted something that handles long distance and fast-packing style camping load. It's what I designed for the Oregon Outback, The Transcontinental Race, as well as exploring the PNW's vast network of Forest Service and logging roads. A do-all road bike without limits.
The fork trail is around 40mm.
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• #1841
hmm, I got no clue about these low-trail-geos, but is that low trail to compensate for large contact patch of the 45mm(?) tyres? I wonder would that ride well with 25mm on the road. Got 59mm on 33mm tyres on my orlowski.
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• #1843
Any sense in not running hydros on a flat/riser bar setup??
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• #1844
Performance wise no, price wise no, maintenance maybe for some.
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• #1845
seems a bit silly if you've got the bars to use hydros then opt for mechanicals
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• #1846
Didn't want to change between bar types.
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• #1847
Flatbar+singlespeed is my starting setup
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• #1848
return of the winter. Meh. No proper rides in near future so changed to flats for commuting.
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• #1849
oh and have to mention. It is pretty obvious now that the dropout design does not allow gears. Mentioned this to Orlowski and he offered to rebuild the rear and + respray free of charge of course. Dropouts are machined in a few weeks.
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• #1850
whats wrong with the dropouts then?
You'll probably be off cheaper by getting a 3/32 chainring and a matching cog then.
edit: There's some on Ebay...