Viking Allrounder Serial No. 120263

Unless I'm badly mistaken that catalogue does not show those brake levers on the Allrounder picture - though they do look like the ones on the drops in the centre picture which also has a matching crankset. So, I'd still think this bike came with drops.

The Allrounder is listed as coming with a hub gear, but single freewheel does seem to be also period correct.

Check this out http://classicvikingcycles.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/1959-Viking-Catalogue-p07.jpg it says GB Alloys.

Weinmann on Airlites with Panaracer Pasellas.

Lose the cottered cranks - Stronglight or TA would be period correct, and you can get track or doubles. Track axles will be a pain though.

Brake pads - anything modern that fits - the fabric composite period ones are useless. Ditto modern cabling.

Where would you recommend I go for the parts?

Airlites = appropriate forums, ebay, hilary stone, bike jumbles
Cranks = ditto
Brake pads = Fibrax are cheap and good, but wear quick (google), swissstop (Evans + price match on the internet)
Cables = (Evans + price match on the internet)

Aritlies would be lovely, but will probably come in 32/40h. Which then makes rim choice an issue.

I'm so green...these numbers 32/40h mean less than nothing to me!

Check this out http://classicvikingcycles.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/1959-Viking-Catalogue-p07.jpg it says GB Alloys.

It does indeed, as does the Hosteller - but it doesn't mean that they only come in one shape. And it does look to me that yours is specced more closely to the Hosteller than the Allrounder shown in that catalogue - see pedals also. Even your seat is the 'racy' Hosteller one so I really do think drops.

The catalogue does not show your exact model of bike - see the pump hangers for example, so slightly different spec is not unexpected. I suspect your geared hub is original.

I'm so green...these numbers 32/40h mean less than nothing to me!

Up until the 60's british road bikes of this type were built of pretty stern stuff. wheel rims were weaker back then than they are now so they built back wheels with 40 spokes rather than the <32 that we have nowadays. This is a bit of a pain for the vintage cycle enthusiast as 40H hubs are readily available but few people make decent 40h clincher rims to run modern tyres.

Stronglight or TA would be period correct, and you can get track or doubles. Track axles will be a pain though.

Shimano UN55 complete bb works perfectly with these chainsets, for an easy life

Jeez I'm learning stuff on this already....great info everyone! The guy I got the bike from had it from new, he was a teenager at the time and he said it hadn't been touch so much be original other than tyres.

So what wheels do people think I should order? I'm keen to make it a single speed.

Could do with someone making me a shopping list...any volunteers?

http://bicycledecals.net/vikingdecals.htm

http://classicvikingcycles.com/viking-transfers-decals/
Hero! my servern valley can have her decals! xx

+1 hugo7's plan.

It's annoying as the decals are exactly the same for the Hosteller and Allrounder apart from the The "Hosteller" Model transfer...guess my chances of finding a The "Allrounder" Model are highly unlikely!

Hilary Stone currently has these...any good?

AIRLITE SMALL FLANGE TRACK SINGLE FIXED HUBS on 28/28H FIAMME ERGAL SPRINT RIMS 15T sprocket Excellent very light period track wheels £125

I wouldn't recommend 28h for everyday street use, especially not with tubular rims.
I'd go for 36h clinchers.

The All Rounder was a lower end Viking, It would never have had such expensive wheels as Airlites. Look for Maillard hubs on your 27" wheelset, good reliable and cost around £40 in good nick. And yes clinchers not sprint rims.

If you're going SS (single speed) then you can use any hubs where the rear has a screw-on free wheel. Ideally you would choose one which is designed for a 120mm rear spacing. But you'll be prob be able to change the spacing on anything with a screw on freewheel.

Airlites obvious look awesome, but I would just get anything in good condition that is sympathic and you like.

While I do think you should keep a lot of it in tack it isnt such a rare or amazing bike that it's worth brakin your back over. Modern silver high flanged track hubs are cheap and easily available. The work well and have sealed easily replaceable bearings.

As for a shopping list, it's your project. Do some googling of things people have mentioned and then some reading up. TBH My post on the last page had a fair bit and a lot can be found by learning to use the search effectively on here.

In case you don't know there's a "definitive lists" thread in bikes and bits which has lists of lots of recomended parts.

Shimano UN55 complete bb works perfectly with these chainsets, for an easy life
Good point - I used one until I found a few TA 314 axles.

Anyone know how to remove these GB Alloy brake leavers? There's no nuts, bolts and it looks like a sealed unit...it won't slide off the end of the bar either?

The conventional way is that when you pull the brake lever and peer into the opening, you see a screw head.
Easiest if you slacken off the brake cable so you can get the screwdriver blade in there. slacken off the screw and the lever should move

Thanks...next is....the stem and fork aren't separating, I guess 50's of being together the py don't want to split any helpful tips?

Coca-cola or other mild acid will help dissolve / loosen the rust / oxidation that is sticking the two (assumed steel) parts together.

No screw inside the brake....bloody mystery

Stem removal
Just to go back to square 1. The bolt that goes down into the fork from the top of the stem.... Don't pull it right out, just unscrew it by 5-10mm and knock it down with a hammer (use a piece of wood to protect the bolt head). Repeat this step a couple of times to separate the expander wedge assembly
http://www.robertscycle.com/hb-stem.html

No screw inside the brake....bloody mystery

IIRC those brake levers are called GB Arret.
If you look just below the rubber hood on the side of the lever body you see the pivot (rounded dowel head). This is what the lever pivots around.

I may be wrong, but on most old brake levers the screw that holds the lever onto the bars will pass through this dowel.
If you're struggling to find this screw the best bet is to remove the brake cable so it's not in your way, get a torch or decent light and then see if you can see inside the lever body to find a screw passing through the mid-point of that dowel.

I can't think of any other way they could have done it.

magnets ?

possibly - either that or velcro

Got them off, you were correct there was a screw just hiding beneath 50 years of dirt!

Here is where she stands...need advice on getting the BB out...I'm guessing these is a tool for this as my BB tool doesn't fit?