Look pista goes Naked with Dura Ace and Nitto

I'm a bit of a pussy cause I think the nitto stem is too deep and the bars are too narrow, so I got them up for sale.

the jag for sale on here? I'd be interested pending price

it's on marktplaats (dutch), but I'm won't ship, so sorry.

oh well! thanks

Yes, one of these popped up on Marktplaats, and got it fairly cheap!

Not my photo though!

With the box and all? Those are awesome!

Nope sorry, just found this picture on flickr :P
We got them NOS on my work though, like 12 of them, only not for sale ;(

12?! And not one for sale? You'd figure they could spare at least one, certainly for a colleague ;)

at least 12. 80 Years of roadbike experience and my boss (67 years old) wants to keep 1 of each part he sold over the years. Really hard to get parts of him hehe.

Howcome he wants 12?!
Those seatposts are awesome, tell your boss to spread the love for me?

There are more sizes though ;) 1 of each size leaves a few doubles.

Talk him into selling me a 26.8!!!!!!!!!!!

And me a 27.2!!!!!

So took the frame to the blaster (?) today and it will be ready this week. Then I'll put some oil over it to keep away the rust.

Almost everything is Dura Ace except the rear wheel. Browsing the web I came across a 7710 low flange hub which I really like, and it's cheaper than a 7600, because I need a 32h. So I'll order one of those and a collegue of mine said he knew the perfect rim and spokes, so he'll take care of my rearwheel :).

What oil do you plan to use? remember that you'll be cleaning it off the top tube with your legs every time you skid...
After a rainy hilly 140km the other day on my raw(ish) Bob Jackson It took ages of scrubbing in the shower to get the rust off my right leg - presumably oil on trousers would be another undesireable scenario.
I've heard of people using linseed oil - not sure whether that stays wet or drys off - perhaps a car polishing wax might be an alternative. There's always the possibility of using a clear-coat spray, but if it flakes off it's not easy to neatly recoat.
My brother has a Ritchey MTB in Raw steel which has been powdercoated - looks pretty nice too (and it's a durable coating).

Sprayed clearcoat definitely sounds like a better idea. Using oil just seems messy!

A friend of mine uses linseed (you have a "raw" and a "cooked" version, and need the cooked.) Cooked linseed oil will dry.

The "oil" I'll be using is called Owatrol and was adviced to me by a guy that restores old motorcycle's. He told me that when I rub it on the frame on an evening, it will be dry in the morning and will keep rust away for a long time.

If it doesn't work I'll respray the frame, cause I don't want to mess with all sorts of oils which will cost me a lot of money which I don't have haha.

Good tip - cheers Jan, keep us posted how you get on with it.
In the UK the "cooked" oil is known as "boiled linseed oil" - I think I've used it on pine floors in the past

On the subject of traditional chemicals - have you shellac'd your bar tape yet?
I ordered some crystals last night to do my Eroica bike

That bike is ace. Love it with the risers. I certainly didn't ride to school on a bike like that, haha

I shellac'd the bars yes, but not really well as my dad said: "I have some shellac and know how to use it", his method was different from the normal method so it kinda failed haha. It doesn't look bad though, will make some pictures soon. I did a ride yesterday with a lovely sun, and the b125 bars did really well riding in the drops.

Oh I meant "boiled", didn't knew the right word haha.

Well I'm on a small grammar school with 600 students so everyone knows it's my bike and I love it haha, I forgot my lock twice and it didn't get stolen. But I certainly have to make a beater for when I'm going to university next year.

Did some small DIY work on my seatpost, a little bit of black paint was needed for the letters.

^ very nice work on the lettering - a labour of love!

Just spoke to Ron Cooper about my frame - apparently he'd never put a frame serial# on the rear dropout - he suggested talking to Chas Roberts.
I'm on the case - A quick google image shows the right sort of headtube lugs....

Talk him into selling me a 26.8!!!!!!!!!!!

!!!!!

Just spoke to Ron Cooper about my frame - apparently he'd never put a frame serial# on the rear dropout - he suggested talking to Chas Roberts.
I'm on the case - A quick google image shows the right sort of headtube lugs....

Damn! that would be really good news. The original forks that came with it have the same serial number (13). But no "R". But let's hope for the best!

So I wonder, do you really only need one MKS tensioner? I thought that I read that somewhere over here.

I only use one and its fine