Fixed Super Light Super Safe

Lovely, but max rider weight is 85kg

actually .. it's 110kG rider + bicycle + luggage for the SP or 130kG for the 'std heavy' verson .. or you could go to AX LIghtness Helios which has a rider weight limit of 110kG ;)

Wot

The Scapula comes in 3 variations .. ignore Posh Bikes, some parts on the site are not made anymore !

Scapula - standard version
Scapula SP - lightest version
Scapula F - integrated brake version

The AX Lightness comes in 2 variations

Helios - standard version
Ax 6000 - lightest version

So their LIGHTEST does 110 and bags?!?

I'm a touch over 85Kg and would'nt say no to a SP. My bank account would though. I guess its going to cost something like £650. The Ritchey WCS cost less than £290, and is only 30 something grams heavier. Thats over £10 per gram FFS.

http://www.ribblecycles.co.uk/sp/road-track-bike/WCS-Carbon-Road-Forks/RITCFORR280?utm_campaign=Googlebase&utm_medium=organic&utm_source=Googlebase

Anyone know what a planet x tt fork weighs? I had one on my kilo bike for a bit and it was seriously light..wish I'd weighed it now
For £ per gram saved they have to be pretty good!

The lightest SP does 110kg total eg you, the bike and anything you carry .. but as Smallfurry said you're stepping into serious weenie money €768 euro and 6 weeks normal for them to be made. The AX are lighter but a similar price.

The Ritchey stuff is overlooked but WCS stuff is pretty light weight.

<300g EC90SLX at £250 looks like a weight-weenie bargain:
http://www.slanecycles.com/easton-ec90-slx-road-fork-p-21919.html

I'd also consider a Look HSC5SL; 300g including the integrated crown race, about £320

The Ritchey stuff is overlooked but WCS stuff is pretty light weight.

I want the stem and forks for my BMC. Would take it below 6.5Kg. Which is mad light for the stiffness. Easton matches better though, as the frame is Easton carbon/alu. Bit worried about losing the amazing cornering though.

The SLX is 'floppy' I've been there .. mine was 298gram cut 230mm steerer

In the name of the quest I have ordered

1. Kitchen Scales
   
2. Hanging Scales
   
3. Torque wrench kit
   
   

And so the process, however slow right now, has started.

Carbon assembly paste.

Get some.

Iain, did you get a torque wrench that has a certificate of calibration?

I need a torque wrench kit, which one you go for, they're all a bit unattractively expensive

Carbon assembly paste.

2nd that .. especially for weenie parts with low torque ratings

they're all a bit unattractively expensive

But cheap after you hear an expensive carbon part cracking as you guessed the torque and went to far .:

But cheap after you hear an expensive carbon part cracking as you guessed the torque and went to far .:

↑This

If you're spending £500+ on fork/bars/seatpost, why wouldn't you protect that investment with £80 spent on a decent torque wrench?

I need a torque wrench kit, which one you go for, they're all a bit unattractively expensive

I like the Norbar range- I have the TT20 (1-20Nm) and am waiting on deliver of a TT100 (20-100Nm).

Iain, did you get a torque wrench that has a certificate of calibration?

But cheap after you hear an expensive carbon part cracking as you guessed the torque and went to far .:

↑This

If you're spending £500+ on fork/bars/seatpost, why wouldn't you protect that investment with £80 spent on a decent torque wrench?

Oh...

Excuse my ignorance.

I got this: [ame="http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B001QWMOZK/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00"]http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B001QWMOZK/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00[/ame]

Should I cancel the order and go for something else? Suggestions?

Norbar 1/4" or 3/8"???

Im happy to pick the TT100 over the TT20 as the difference in price is only about £6.

I picked it based on the fact its Bike related torque wrench. I really dont want to ruin any carbon.

Should I cancel the order and go for something else?

Review says it has calibration certificate, so that should keep the nerds quiet. In practice, I doubt that accurate calibration is that big a deal - no manufacturer in their right mind would ship components which didn't work just fine at specified torque + 25%. Bolt tension is what breaks stuff, and the torque/tension curve moves more than that depending on lubrication conditions anyway.

If the spec says 4Nm, the importance of a torque wrench of any kind is to get it somewhere between 3Nm and 5Nm, and not the 2-10Nm you'd use if you just tried to guess it by feel.

whats the weight difference between a 3/32s drivechain against the equivalent 1/8th?

and likewise how much weaker is it? particularly the actual chain.

I guess a better question would be does anyone know of a table listing each chain with its ultimate tensile strength

I have a £13 jobbie at the moment. 5Nm should stop me crushing anything.

http://superstar.tibolts.co.uk/product_info.php?cPath=36&products_id=387

I was going to upgrade to this
http://superstar.tibolts.co.uk/product_info.php?cPath=36&products_id=550

But my tool budget got eaten by the need for a BB chasing tool.

The only place I have any carbon clamped is on the EA90 bars on my BMC. So the little torque key works well.

whats the weight difference between a 3/32s drivechain against the *equivalent *1/8th?

If you really mean direct equivalents, not much, as they are the same sets of plates joined together by shorter rollers and pins, e.g.
Wippermann 1R8 443g/96 = 4.6g per link
Wippermann 7R8 440g/110 = 4.0g per link
The wide chain is 15% heavier.

The reason why people use 3/32" on weight weenie single speed/ fixed bikes is to allow the use of super light dérailleur chain, e.g.
Wippermann 9S1 274g/110 = 2.5g per link

Ultimate tensile strength of a new chain is easily the least important number, unless you're using it in lifting gear.