Fixed Super Light Super Safe

I'm working on getting the clamp changed... What's the seatpost clamp size anyway Eingang?

your seatpost is too short and you know it.

Cheers Tom for changing my bars round to look like a shopper- made laner and me laugh!

I'm working on getting the clamp changed... What's the seatpost clamp size anyway Eingang?

34,9mm

Cheers:-)

Cheers Tom for changing my bars round to look like a shopper- made laner and me laugh!

he also took the seatpost out and poured sand down the seat tube. rides like a shopper too. oh the lulz.

Thought you'd appreciate it :) Stem has like no slope to it, 4° or something. At least in shopper configuration it was sort-of the right way up. And I'm serious about the seatpost. You get that down to safe insertion and your steerer sits higher.

What's safe insertion point? I don't know- I think cause I have short legs I may get away with it.

Traditionally you want the bottom of the seatpost to sit below the join of seat tube and top tube.
Might be making all this up, of course. But 'Super safe' and all that.

is there a reason the headset cap doesn't sit flush? or is that just my eyes....?

I have matching stem for those forks... Check my sales thread :p

is there a reason the headset cap doesn't sit flush? or is that just my eyes....?

That's an expander rather.

he means the upper bearing race thingy.

yeah sorry, too much raki :)

Perhaps I don't want to fit it properly cause the fork needs some chopping?!

I have matching stem for those forks... Check my sales thread :p
I have one as well. Too heavy for this project.

what you mean no 26" wheel and barspinz?

Traditionally you want the bottom of the seatpost to sit below the join of seat tube and top tube

This is what I understand too .. early days as yet though and you don't know what the final position is. Remember the cranks are 180 (without reading the thread back) so the position will be lower and more aero then a 170 crank .. theoretically.

Looking good so far.

Remember the cranks are 180 (without reading the thread back) so the position will be lower and more aero then a 170 crank .. theoretically.

Your theory is wrong. Longer cranks = more leg extension due to raised saddle. You can't drop the saddle down to maintain the same distance to bottom dead centre without closing the hip angle. If you shorten the cranks, you can lower the saddle to maintain the same distance to top dead centre while maintaining the previous hip angle.

As i am now running bullhorn handlebars, I now have to try find a light weight Aero/TT brake lever.

I have found 45.5g Vision which is slightly lighter than the dirty harry of unknown weight (but comes in both left and right (sold separately) and in different colours!)

I have emailed Fibrelite for details on turn around for a chainring.

I was wondering if this might work- If I want about 70ish GI, I was thinking I could get a 36T/13T combination that will also mean that as 13 is a prime, I will in fact have the infinite amazingness of a 17T. Does that work? It would give me a GI of about 72 i think. Plus it will save some weight as well. The added benefit could be that as the chainring is smaller, its going to be stronger. Do I stick with a full track chainring or cut out?

Dura Ace does a 3/32 13T Cog. I wonder if there is a way to get a 13T cog any lighter... Though that may be on the point of ridiculous.

I remember tho once having issues with mixing different cog/LR manufacturers or different hub/cog/LR. Would DA work on AC?

Stem has like no slope to it, 4° or something.

5°

Dura Ace does a 3/32 13T Cog. I wonder if there is a way to get a 13T cog any lighter... Though that may be on the point of ridiculous.

I remember tho once having issues with mixing different cog/LR manufacturers or different hub/cog/LR. Would DA work on AC?

Just get an alu sprocket. I have a alu 17t and its lasted far longer than I expected.
http://urbanvelo.org/velosolo-aluminum-track-cog/

Just get a 15T, together with a 40 tooth chainring.

If you plan to go with deepish rims, get the non-cutout chain ring. Simples.

I believe the vision bar end levers are a weird size and only fit vision bars. You may be able to shim but im not sure. Tester will know.

Also - needs moar spacers.

Sram s900 carbon tt levers, 99g a pair

Your theory is wrong. Longer cranks = more leg extension due to raised saddle. You can't drop the saddle down to maintain the same distance to bottom dead centre without closing the hip angle. If you shorten the cranks, you can lower the saddle to maintain the same distance to top dead centre while maintaining the previous hip angle.

Im probably making a big mistake here, but I disagree mdcc. For the same leg extension, a longer crank arm will mean your saddle will have to sit lower. When the crank is at 6oclock, the distance between the spindle and top of saddle should be the same for all crank lengths. So 180mm crank would need 10 mm lower saddle than 170mm. This is what scherrit at bike whisperer confirmed to me too.

braces himself

those vision brake levers are made for 22,2mm handlebars, but vision offers shims for 24mm handlebars too.