-
• #402
That sounds like a plan. You could also revisit how the cables exit the tape, if you see what I mean. The only thing there is if you hold your bars near the middle when you're on the flats.
My guess is it's going to be an accumulation of small changes rather than a magic bullet.
Also most of the hope images on google aren't showing noddles (it's one The other brands).
-
• #403
120mm here.
-
• #404
looking good james, i look forward to seeing it in the flesh
-
• #405
i agree, none of the hope images are using noodles, but it looks like an option
i think crossing the cables over before the converter is possibly a better option, but it would then mean i have both brake and gear cables crossing over
-
• #406
There was almost no image of people using noodle on cable holder with cantilevers brakes, but can confirm it's pretty much an old trick the mechanic do with the slam that stem and short stem crowd.
-
• #407
what about nokon?
-
• #408
How do the brakes feel through the converter? Good feel/modulation?
-
• #409
they feel good, pads still to fully bed in (only been ridden a couple of times just for test purpose, 2nd time was doing lots of slowing down and speeding up before spraying with water)
the main issue is the huge loop of cable at the front, and whether this could be reduced by use of nokon cables or a 135 degree v-brake noodle
Dammit has less cable but his levers do not travel so smoothly due to tighter bend in the cable housing
so debating if the current cabling arrangement is acceptable - performance wise it is great, but the bike does look like the back end of a hi fi with huge loops of cabling all over the place
-
• #410
what about nokon?
If you want to spend more of course, the noodle is pretty cheap (or even free).
but the Nokon allowed a greater range of adjustment I reckon (and compression too).
-
• #411
I reckon between us we can solve this one, my noodles should be here tomorrow so I'll chuck them on after I pick up my new brakes.
-
• #412
new brakes? what are you getting now?
am just getting impatient to tape up my bars, so trying to make a decision
stupid thing is that the brakes are working fine, so do i really need to worry?
-
• #413
Nah, tape them up.
-
• #414
have put a noodle in, has tidied the cable routing and improved the feel
-
• #415
can i be arsed to change the thomson faceplate?
-
• #416
if you go over the bars, die and somebody uploads your brain into a computer your name will be
LE THOMSON -
• #417
Don't change it. It can be your stand against Thomson finishing kits.
-
• #418
its making me dizzy
-
• #419
have put a noodle in, has tidied the cable routing and improved the feel
Looks less gash. Almost...steampunk. Like.
-
• #420
noodles are doing the job really well
bike is great, it feels like a hooligan road bike, potholes etc are not a worry, it just seems to glide over them
really rather happy, next up is fitting mudguards
-
• #421
Whichever you choose be prepared to have to do something like this.
It may but not that noticeable.
P45 might be a tight fit, currently riding with a 33.3c tyres on a P45 and it just about fit (look tidy thought).
If you reckon you have enough clearance for a P50, go for it.
Regarding fit - here's a solution;
two options for mounting the mudguards
anyone good at manipulating metal to achieve the neat bends? or what is the solution that scoble pictured, it looks quite neat, though as the stays are bent in those pictures it seems i would be as well off bending the entire stays
-
• #422
Long bolt with a bit of ally tube? Very neat sir.
-
• #423
or what is the solution that scoble pictured, it looks quite neat?
looks like a long bolt with a spacer mounted on it, easily doable with a decent DIY shop/LBS
edit: gah! beaten to it!
-
• #424
Clerkenwell Screw will have the bits you needed.
I find the latter easier as it only required a slight bent.
-
• #425
edscoble is a slight bender
you implying i am a big bender?
another option would be to swap the two brake pistons over so the wired cables do not make such sharp turns