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• #577
Damn! No more rep for you spotter.
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• #578
All this talk has made me want my old Cannondale Rush back.
However, as it was a 2006 I am sure it is considered horrifically out of date now.
The Lefty fork was awesome, I'm glad to see that they stuck with that.
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• #579
How wide a tyre do you suppose would fit in these?
http://singletrackworld.com/2012/09/eurobike-2012-x-fusion-forks-and-dropper/
Release date 2015 IIRC. Should get a standard fat tyre (3.8") on a standard fat rim in there (50-80mm). Which is all you'd want for a hardtail fatty anyway. On-one, who are working specifically with trail riding in mind, are looking at 4" tyres, and 70mm rims. I plan to have 65mm rims, and 3.8mm tyres for fatty hard tail use. That could change though if On-one make there components availible separatly.
For snow/sand floatation on 4.7" tyres, with 100mm rims. Suspension makes a lot lees sense.
I guess I'm saying they are wide enough ;)
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• #580
Makes no odds to me though.
I have this sitting in my office :)
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• #581
Not exactly masses of clearance. But looks fine sagged and/or with the correct pressure in the tyres.
Very smooth action.
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• #582
Awesomeness.
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• #583
^^ Completely mental :-s
Love it!
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• #584
Awesome.
Can you bring it to london so I can ride it?
Sure it'll fit perfect!
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• #585
cheers folks.
Under the scientific test, of rolling the fork around the rocks in the garden. The softness of the massive tyre and the low friction movement of the fork work well together.
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• #586
Its all happening now....
Bought a Ti stem. More expensive than, at least as heavy as, and not as stiff as, the Hope Tech I had planned toi buy. But Shiney (going to finish it to match the frame).
Will have to place my stem under the top clamp of the Lefty to retain my stack height. So more oddities for the bike.
Meanwhile in Russia.....
Tubes are being machined, and my front triangle will be in production soon.
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• #587
Bought a Ti stem..
Deserves no less.
This bike's gonna be amazing!
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• #588
It looks to have the same hand brush 'brillo pad' finish that my frame will have. I have some lightly abrasive polish, that I used to restore old alu bike parts. I figure it could take the frame to the next level.
So the stem will be the test subject. If I like it. I'll do the seatpost. Which will be a Triton made, and specc'd with the same finish as the frame. Then the frame.
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• #589
What do you apply the polish with?
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• #590
Probably last piece of soft clothing my youngest nippa grow out of.
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• #591
wraps self in flameproof blanket
Why would anyone want a Ti stem?
Aluminium can be made into a stem which is lighter, stiffer, and cheaper.Tis shiney though.
Aluminium can be used to make a stiffer and lighter stem than Ti. There may be some comfort to be afforded from a Ti stem, but I would'nt know. Plus people pack away their carbon in the winter to aviod damaging it though cycling in poor conditions. As a polymer scientist I can confirm that carbon composites do not rust ;)
It is the prettiness.
;)
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• #592
^^ Completely mental :-s
Love it!
Yup... Bonkers
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• #593
;)
Ha.
I did say the Hope stem would have been better. Would have matched the alu of the fork too. I still think aluminium is the best material. I just fancied matching the seatpost. + I might upgrade my Jones bars to Ti if I like the shape. hmmmm.The technical reason is that the steerer clamping section of the Ti stem is really thin. This has become a factor now that it looks like I will be running the stem under the steeply dropping top fork clamp. An alu stem, especially a chunky AM one, will hit the clamp much sooner. Making the set-up less flexible.
I hope to run the front end thus....
Hope head doctor
1.5mm spacer
Top lefty clamp
3, or 5, mm spacer.
Stem +/- 5deg.
1.5mm spacer
Top Hope headset bearings
90mm headtube
Bottom Hope headset bearings
Bottom lefty clamp......nothing about this bike is simple.
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• #594
So the stem will be the test subject.
Be completely awesome if you can get it as shiny as this one.
You may end up blinding people on a sunny day :-)
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• #595
OK. I'd enjoy gettinthe stem tothat finish. Seatpost too.
But them I'd have to do the frame. If my stem cames as far in advance o the frame as I suspect. I'm oing to have reign in my OCDs when I give i a quick buff.
I'm not really happy with the front wheel. I thnking that I want a rollig darryl rim so I can do a better offset lacing job, and gain a few vitall mms clearance, as well as a much more reliable wheel.
Man those rims are pricey though :(
I also find myself lusting after some of these....
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• #596
Why don't you just drill more spoke holes in your existing rim? And re-lace it along one side.
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• #597
Why don't you just drill more spoke holes in your existing rim? And re-lace it along one side.
Thats a bloody good idea!
The Fat Sheba rims are shite though. Still it would buy me some time.
Cheers.
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• #598
Man those rims are pricey
:-o Just had a look at the price... eek!
^^^ However, if those are jones ti bars, aren't they uber pricey?
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• #599
:-o Just had a look at the price... eek!
^^^ However, if those are jones ti bars, aren't they uber pricey?
Yeah.
I already have the cut-H alu bars to test the feel of the sweep for both snow and trail riding. So it'd be a flash xmas present some time in the future.
Basically the way you mount your levers behind the cross-bar, on the loop bars (as opposed to infront on the cut-H) means they add less reach than the cut-H. Not a problem if you can run a shorter stem. There isnt any space for that with the lefty though.
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• #600
^ You just thought that the bike was somehow lacking in complexity & so decided to add some more ;-)
Don't buy ones that wide, Spotter's line isn't quite perpendicular to the axle, they'll rub.