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• #21752
Oh for fucks sake some one sell me some 1 1/8" integralters. Pleeeease!
Or we can trade for my 1''. :) -
• #21753
mill them out?
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• #21754
SadR I love it when you call out reposts.
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• #21755
No tape on the intergralter, maybe after they spent all that money they couldnt afford any. Who are these people?
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• #21756
mill them out?
Yeah some guys on here suggested that, in another thread but it might ruin their structural integrity and basically I wouldn't want to find out that they didn't hold up the hard way.
I thought about it myself to be honest and can mill them out neatly, at least I think so, but dont't know if it's safe.
Has anyone here tried it?
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• #21757
I'd hold off for a swap
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• #21758
Invisible chain.
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• #21759
Yeah some guys on here suggested that, in another thread but it might ruin their structural integrity and basically I wouldn't want to find out that they didn't hold up the hard way.
I thought about it myself to be honest and can mill them out neatly, at least I think so, but dont't know if it's safe.
Has anyone here tried it?
what is the fork?
is it carbon or ally?
its possible to do it with leaving bars alone with a cost of 5 quid, but its a bit of a faff - depending on how determined you are. -
• #21760
I'd hold off for a swap
Probably gonna do that
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• #21761
what is the fork?
is it carbon or ally?
its possible to do it with leaving bars alone with a cost of 5 quid, but its a bit of a faff - depending on how determined you are.The forks I would use them with would be steel.
You tried it before? Know of anyone who has?
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• #21762
"No tape on the intergralter, maybe after they spent all that money they couldnt afford any. Who are these people?"
Maybe "these people" configure their bikes in a way that works for them, rather than in accordance with the general consensus of this forum, or perhaps they're just morons?
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• #21763
Probably the latter,
Usually hate them but on that build with the tri they just look epic!
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• #21764
The forks I would use them with would be steel.
You tried it before? Know of anyone who has?
yeah using it now
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• #21765
where the guy rides i don't think bar tape is as important than somewhere like the UK. still should have it though...
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• #21766
yeah using it now
awesome gonna pm you some questions if that's cool
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• #21767
mill them out?
I'd be surprised if the overall shape of the 1.125" alter is any different to the 1" alter, which would suggest that wall thickness/strength is good for 1.125" and over-engineered at 1".....
If that's correct, I'd take it as an invitation to ream the 1" alter or integralter to 1.125" if you want without too much concern for strength.
If you're not blessed with access to a toolmaker, this can be done pretty easily/accurately on a workbench/workmate with only 2 tools, an adjustable reamer and a tap wrench.I couldn't find an adjustable reamer that goes from 1" - 1.125" on a quick glance, though I've no doubt such things exist.
The 2 below will take you from 15/16" (23.8mm) to 19/16" (30.2mm) so not only will they be good for this, but they'll also enable you to ream most common seat-tube sizes and remove seized posts too making you the envy of all your friends...
http://www.tracytools.com/straight-taper-reamers?product_id=561
http://www.tracytools.com/straight-taper-reamers?product_id=563
http://www.tracytools.com/index.php?route=product/category&path=42
basically you adjust the cut depth as you go and use the steerer tube as a size gauge.Note: this is lightly educated conjecture rather than hard fact or experience, so don't come to me with your dentist bills if it fails
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• #21768
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• #21769
Cinelli Prototype Carbon track bike, taking part in the Red Hook Crit.
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• #21770
Fuck Carbon.
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• #21771
reader's wives + background slavery
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• #21772
Is that OK's leader?
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• #21773
I failed to learn any names on that ride but I guess?
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• #21774
Well I'm Indra.
But yeah it's his, DA front hub and Phil rear.
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• #21775
I'd be surprised if the overall shape of the 1.125" alter is any different to the 1" alter, which would suggest that wall thickness/strength is good for 1.125" and over-engineered at 1".....
If that's correct, I'd take it as an invitation to ream the 1" alter or integralter to 1.125" if you want without too much concern for strength.
If you're not blessed with access to a toolmaker, this can be done pretty easily/accurately on a workbench/workmate with only 2 tools, an adjustable reamer and a tap wrench.I couldn't find an adjustable reamer that goes from 1" - 1.125" on a quick glance, though I've no doubt such things exist.
The 2 below will take you from 15/16" (23.8mm) to 19/16" (30.2mm) so not only will they be good for this, but they'll also enable you to ream most common seat-tube sizes and remove seized posts too making you the envy of all your friends...
http://www.tracytools.com/straight-taper-reamers?product_id=561
http://www.tracytools.com/straight-taper-reamers?product_id=563
http://www.tracytools.com/index.php?route=product/category&path=42
basically you adjust the cut depth as you go and use the steerer tube as a size gauge.Note: this is lightly educated conjecture rather than hard fact or experience, so don't come to me with your dentist bills if it fails
Thanks for the insight. I'm gonna look into this and ask around. I know this guy that tried this on an alter stem and ended up throwing it away. I have to find out some details though, this was a while back but I think he got rid of it due to personal error while milling.
ah yes, tyres.
that's look is some serious business.