2007 Cannondale SystemSix Team Si

would Powercordz fit- I got the iLink mini for shift cable, which I thought is too narrow a diameter for cordz?

You'll need the 1.2mm set. They are a pig to get through SRAM levers, but take your time, 'half shift' the lever and it's possible - from memory there's a good photo how to in a WW post. My advice is read the instructions and do the back first if it's your first time with CordZ then if you damage the cable during clamping you can still use it on the front .. (like I had to first time!)

why do you want inline adjusters? I have no adjustment on the front mech of most of my bikes, don't need it!

I just carried them over from the original cabling really.

I can (and will) strip them out, however that means getting new inner lining for the iLinks, which will probably be annoyingly expensive.

Take up Nordic Walking instead.

just leave them there, until you need to replace the inners. How do you get on with them? I have fitted a couple of sets, but never used them myself.

actually just reread up thread, you have mini Ilinks, not Powercordz, I was interested in the Powercordz

Inline cable adjusters. I'm using these on my CAAD / SRAM bike.

http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/jagwire-cable-adjusters-for-fixing-to-plain-frame-headtube-boss-prod24780/?src=froogle

I've got a pair of these http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=39475

But they don't really fit into the cable stops, so I didn't use them.

I might see if they can be adapted a bit. I know it smacks of bad setup, but I like to be able to adjust mech function slightly whilst riding.

Bungs!

When I swapped the fork I wanted to use a bung, rather than the star fangled nut that was in the original ones, so I got a Hope Head Doctor:

Sadly the diameter of the bung was too large to fit into the inside of the steerer.

So, we made do with an M:Parts one:

But that was as stop gap, until this arrived:

This is a combination of parts, the alloy sleeve comes with new Cervelo's, and epoxies into the steerer, the top cap and bolt are from Fibrelyte.

The alloy sleeve should provide all the reinforcement needed for the stem to clamp nice and firmly.

I've read that you shouldn't ever use a head doctor on a carbon steerer, the force it creates can crack the steerer. Just out of interest, where did you procure the 3T alloy sleeve from?

^^ so just to get this straight... you're turning your full carbon forks into ones with an extra alu steerer?

;)

Ah, well- handy to know.

I got the sleeve from a good friend who works in a bike shop (amongst other places).

^^ so just to get this straight... you're turning your full carbon forks into ones with an extra alu steerer?

;)

Spot on. Strong like bull, though.

24g? It's a bit lardy no? Tune do one that weighs 14g all in.

http://fairwheelbikes.com/tune-gum-gum-expander-plug-p-310.html

Don't epoxy a metal sleeve in to your steerer

I quite like the "slightly overbuilt" aspect of it, to be honest, and that tune one saves me 11g.

I've not bonded it in yet though.

It also saves you having to epoxy a sleeve in to your forks. You don't need over-built in that area.

Cannondale reinforced the SystemSix steerer with a super long top cap, so I thought it would be a good plan to do a version of that with this SuperSix fork.

It's your bike, do what you want. I think you're current 'plan' is very silly.

How long is the alloy sleeve? Could you trim it down a bit?

Surly it only needs to be the same length as a stem(?).

Tune one looks better tho, and it's not that expensive either .

I seem to remember that Tester had a really light Alloy bung made and bonded to his look fork .. maybe a search for that post or MSG him about it? It was certainly lighter then 20g from memory ..

As for the GumGum I've used that but prefer the Extralite UltraStar. The UltraStar defiantely works with the Fibrelyte top cap.

Tune Gum Gum is too large- internal diameter of my steerer tube is a shade under 23.5.

The Extralite UltraStar might work.

Or I could bond my length of lead pipe in.

I'll give it some thought.

I am using SRAM, which needs an inline adjuster for the front mech (the rear mech has an adjuster on the body of the mech as per usual).

This has been no problem in the past as I had inline adjusters at each downtube cable stop.

I switched to using Alligator iLink cables, and that has rendered the inline adjusters useless- the iLinks rotate before the adjusters screw in or out.

Has anyone encountered this and come up with an elegant solution?

Dull update- for those people using segmented cable outer such as Nokon, Alligator iLink or SwissComp, the JagWire J2 seems to be the adjuster of choice:

They don't require the housing to hold part of the adjuster still whilst you rotate the other part, therefore they don't simply rotate the cable outer when you try to adjust the cable tension. That's the theory anyway, I've not fitted them yet, but having a play with them supports my theory.

those russel hobbs are easily the most famous scales on LFGSS

I wonder how much they weigh?