Bike polo mechanics & fixing

Other possible causes:

• Outer cable too short
  
• Outer cable too long
  
• Outer cable has kinks
  
• Outer cable has burrs where it's been cut
  
• Inner cable has kinks
  
• Inner cable has frayed
  
• Alfie's put superglue down your outers...
  

Are you using a full outer to the rear? I found that unless you're using decent cables they're a bit sticky. As everyone said, lube. GT85 is good. I made a couple of cable stops for the top tube and removed about a foot of outer cable from the line, improved the feel so much. But then I am using £1 cables.

I did try micro adjustment, but only on the back. I think a happy middle ground might be middle pins on the front with normal tension in micro adjustment and top pins on rear with slack micro adjusters. I has lubed cables.

I'll keep fiddling.

I have the same problem and have done this with my mrx, not ideal but it will do

It has cable stops on the TT, I think it might have been Alfie!

at least thats your only problem;

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thats after 12 days. They are sending new forks though.

Never buying a mr.x!

Because you don't play polo...

That's fucked, Alex... :[

Because you don't play polo...

That's fucked, Alex... :[

I did play polo and I will play polo in the future. You keep attempting to, you'll get there one day.

Bridge with goats on it >>>>>>>>>>>>>>

I've got the same problem with my paul, except I just put hockey tape on the back of the lever, so the cables can't move. Not the correct solution, but it works.

[*]Alfie's put superglue down your outers...

Ha!

I always though two fingers to pull 2 brakes seemed to make sense! You're pulling what, about 4 foot of cable (that's assuming tt stops) and against four springs... Maybe I've got weak fingers?

Has anyone every converted a 135mm qr hub to 10mm bolt through? I have some old hope hubs ( old enough to have the black/green hope stickers on) and I would like to convert the rear to bolt through so that it doesnt slide in horizontal dropouts. There is a thread about it on retrobike but is there anyone who has tried it and can give me some advice?

Yep.
My mechanic said it's not a good idea but I couldn't hold my axle in place with any expensive QR / tug set up.
Stuck in an axle, bought some Deore track nuts, hasn't given me any grief since. Apart from one side track nut not unlocking once the first was undone. WD40 and sorted.

Not sure what advice you need though?

Bad luck Alexis, that sucks.

Found extra long chainring bolts, pearson's in Sutton, Thier in the garage room. They are on the computer as £12, but the packet says £6, woop! :)

1)Currently working on my polo build, is there much i need to consider between a bmx style chain set and standard style one except 'personal preference?'
2)Anyone with any experience of the Eightinch cranksets? Seem pretty tidy for £100 inc postage and tax..
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=200661890397#ht_2770wt_1380

a bmx style tubular crankset will usually higher q-factor. It will space your feet much further apart than a standard mtb one, which in turn has a higher q-factor than a standard road crankset.

is there a polo related advantage to a high/low q factor?

some find that the inside of their ankles strike the crank with BMX cranks.

Isn't it dependant on how wide your hips are as to what's the best width?

higher q factor could lead to more peddle strike

higher q factor could lead to more peddle strike

This.

you can run a longer crank length with a low q factor which means you get more power out of your legs.

peddle strike

Defined as: When shopkeepers, market stall holders and other retail staff withhold their labour as a form of protest.

there are arguments for being more stable when your feet are further apart though, swings and roundabouts

ha, peddles