Electronic & Hydraulic Shifting (Di2, Ui2, customisations)

Hell yeah.

Dunno about this tho

High quality very long lasting (320 amps)

Ultegra 8070
I have one sprocket which hesistates before shifting down into, 3rd or 4th sprocket from the bottom I think.
Is the solution to go into microadjust mode and shift a couple of clicks outboard?

Sounds like that's whats needed.

I normally try microadjust and when I've more time check that my RD hanger is straight.

Is there any reason not to get sram red axs over force. There’s a reduced price red groupset I can get which is the same price as force.

Cost of replacement chains, rings, cassettes etc. Otherwise is it force D1 or D2? Force is on 2nd generation now, the shifters are smaller and nicer in the hand, Red hasn't been updated yet and will be soon.

Force D1 - I don’t mind mix and match as long as it all works together (generally use 105 consumables on ultegra for example)

Well then they're basically the same apart from a few grams. I'd go for force and save some money but if red was the same price, no brainer

Basically 550 for force 1x plus a front mech, battery and charger or 800 for red. So. Feels like a no brainer.

SRAM cassettes and chains are horrifyingly expensive. I've used Shimano (11-speed) consumables on Red for years without any issues.

I'd expect Shimano stuff to be more highly engineered, and where I'd expect it to make the most difference would be chains, cogs and rings...

The top tier Sram cassettes are works of art. The old Red ones weighed nothing and were all milled from one piece, never marked your freehub etc.

I still do. Best ones so far is XX1 11 speed chain and Red cassette, better than Dura-ace.
Top shelf eagle is a league above everything else

I'd expect Shimano stuff to be more highly engineered

That is literally nonsense. SRAM didn’t make hundreds of thousands of cranksets that randomly split in two.

@atz the difference between Force and Red AXS is in the crankset, just get Force and upgrade the crankset if you need Red weight.

Get the Rival AXS D1 front mech. The Force D1 and Red D1 had a very tiny goldilocks set up zone ime.
The Rival D1 is has an updated design compared to the Red/Force D1, whatever was changed, its much easier to get it set up perfectly.

It worth pointing that the new Force D2 front mech is identical to the Rival D1 other than it has different graphics and costs more.

Red cassettes are no doubt nifty. But it's not Shimano's fault that everybody started taking the splines they designed for steel and started doing them in aluminium.

And yeah, epic fail with the bonded cranks. But Shimano are the giants of cycle engineering, and thus the myriad subtle details involved in making a multi speed chain shift perfectly and last well are going to be covered best by the company which has driven the vast bulk of innovation over the last few decades and employs most of the engineers.

I mean, just look at the 1st gen Red FD. Amateur stuff; state of the art circa 1980. Admittedly they've lifted their game since, but still

the company which has driven the vast bulk of innovation

Hmmm...

Okay, make that refinement. Especially to drivetrains.

I've got normal Shimano 1x MTB stuff on my Stanton.
What's the cheapest way to convert this to Di2 with the same MTB drivetrain?
ie. just the Di2 shifter, mech, battery (dropper post so where would that go?), junction A/B? cables?

If I was to do the same electronic conversion using the SRAM stuff, what bits would I need: shifter and mech is it? What's the cheapest combo of those bits?

One option is you can put it in your steerer but you would want to use the compatible PRO stem which has a hole at the top for the wire to come out before it goes through the top cap into the fork or else you'd have a loose wire around the stem.

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The bodge version would be to drop it into your seat tube wrapped in something to stop any rattling (I've used bubble wrap and elastic bands on my road bike which has the canyon split seatpost). It just makes removing it a pain.

I've had two bikes that have killed cables doing it that way so I would definitely go for a 'proper' installation. I've also got an internal dropper on the Stanton so that probably negates any Di2 battery installs. I need to work out how to remove this dropper post actually... can't get enough cable slack so presume I'll have to undo the cable at the bars. :(

using the SRAM stuff, what bits would I need: shifter and mech is it? What's the cheapest combo of those bits?

GX Eagle AXS RD and the pod shifter, I think

I have done dropper AND battery in ST, totally depends on ST length, dropper length etc

Well yeah, if you're 8ft tall you can probably find room, but on mine, with the dropper length I have and the bottle cage bolts there's likely not enough room for it. It might be possible but I'm not just doing the 'drop it down the seat tube' thing again.