Electronic & Hydraulic Shifting (Di2, Ui2, customisations)

Thanks mate. Down in London for a week or so from next Sunday so can collect.

Brilliant.

When I did it for a customer, I used superglue to proof the whole wire system. Still works after a couple of years now. The Cateye switches are much sturdier as well.

Cheers. I’ve tried to find the Cateye switches with no success.

di2 ultegra rear mech not going on the two smallest cog any tips would be helpful

On the big ring? My guess would be limit screws.

My LBS told me the new firmware won’t let you cross chain small/small.

I’ve got a set of sprint shifter buttons going spare if you’re interested.

small chainring on the front wont go the the 2 smallest at the back

small chainring on the front wont go the the 2 smallest at the back

You shouldn't even be trying to do that.

what d'you mean

what d'you mean

It's cross-chaining, which is bad for efficiency and service life. If you feel the need for 39/11, use 53/15 instead.

See attached for worst-case examples, but with 2×11 you shouldn't need to use more than the 8 larger sprockets with the small ring and the 8 smaller ones with the big ring.

1 Attachment

copy that thanks very indeed...

First ride on Etap today. On several occasions the front derailleur wouldnt shift when I wanted it to. Pressing the paddles repeatedly (or the function button on the derailleur) it came alive again. A short while later the same thing happens again. Any ideas? All seems well besides this :(

Have you test it on a bike stand? Is it not responding or having a hard time shifting?

I set it up yesterday on my bike stand, so yes. Come to think of it I did have some trouble pairing the thing. Seemed fine after that though.

It’s not responding. After I ”wake” it up shifting is fine.

Not sure I’m fully clear, but the system goes to sleep after a period of inactivity. You are unable to shift when it’s asleep. It then wakes up again when movement is detected.

Is this what you mean?

are you using synchro shift? in which case the clever groupset is stopping user error

i think so, aint got the chance to manipulate via computer as im running out time t0 go for a few round at rp....

on R8000 this does this by design, it doesn't let you cross chain when in the small ring.

copy that maybe @dancing james is right too and as @mdcc_tester mention i can still have different option and it works in bigger chainring live for it thanks for the tips bless we all

This.

Had this brilliant/stupid idea on the weekend to convert my 12yr old S-Works Tarmac from 10spd DA to some form of Di2, probably Ultegra.

Obviously it has no Di2 cable options so I'd probably just run it all externally unless someone has got good docs on how to bodge an internal setup?

With Di2 I could run aerobars on it easily without having to worry about shift cables and shit. It's nicer for travel too.

Do they still do external batteries or does everyone just mount the internal ones externally?

I run external cables for all but the battery. I used the bottom bracket drain hole to feed the cable to the battery (the hole was small so had to cut and re-join the cable), there has to be a hole from the bb shell to the seat tube of course.
Cables use the external connector (jc-40?) since neither the drain hole nor the cable guide hole are big enough to take more that 1 cable an I think the holes to the seat and down tubes are too small to take the internal cable connector.
External batteries are still available. Just not as neat.

I've never swapped cranks or BB on that bike so don't know if there's a hole from seattube to BB shell. (I'll read this: http://forums.roadbikereview.com/specialized/converting-di2-specialized-owners-318129.html)

SM-JC40
http://www.wiggle.co.uk/shimano-dura-ace-9070ultegra-6770-di2-wiring-junction/

What about a fork steerer mounted battery? That possible? Easier/harder? I could ditch or cut the top cap to allow cable to pop out the top, then it's near the stem-mounted Junc A box but I guess I'd then need to locate Junc B somewhere still and it requires a long cable run probably down the downtube.

If only there was some system available which didn't need wires and mounted the battery directly on the dérailleur...

I have seen an externally routed non di2 lynskey at my lbs (clevermike) with that under bb connector. battery was the old version and cables routed under the downtube, but all in all looked very neat.