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• #1427
Obviously can't say for sure but I'm aware a great many are. Check out that channel linked as will have good demos of restoration including links to specific products. Have only ever used them for a single repair but spoke to them for advice and they were really helpful.
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• #1428
Cheers. I'll go through them.
Tbh it doesn't matter if it is laminate. I wasn't going to properly sand it, just try and gently feather the ridge where the height difference is most obvious and noticeable on that straight edge.
My gut says clear Danish oil is the way to go.
I would also really recommend people having a bag of Fuller's Earth in the cupboard. It's meant for face masks, but it did a great job of pulling the spilt oil out of our tall boy, and I 100% thought that this table would have a pink stain in it.
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• #1429
My wife and I restore and flip a lot of “MCM” furniture. We just use teak scratch remover for stuff like this, which is just a stained oil really. It’s pretty magical, wipe on and scratches, fades from sun etc disappear and merge together to give a consistent finish.
You may get away with just wiping it on, otherwise you may need to give it a light sanding and then try the stain.
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• #1430
Do you mean like this rustins stuff or the little crayons?
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• #1431
Yeah in a bottle. We have teak coloured which seems to match perfectly for your typical Gplan et al
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• #1432
Selling these Gubi 3d bar stools. Like new condition. 75cm height. Black sled base and oak seats. £300 each
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• #1433
Is that lime wash on the walls and ceiling? Was it a nightmare?
Nice flooring too.
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• #1434
I don't think it's lime wash / hotlime wash, as that ends up looking like paint.. but it's dead interesting, almost a lime plaster left bare or an armour coating effect. I'm awaiting the answer too
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• #1435
Thanks!
It’s lime plaster with a slight colour tint and finish raw. Other than the splashback which has a coating 🙂
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• #1436
I like the floor - boards or engineered?
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• #1437
Getting more worried about the kids spilling something that would properly stain the raw wood spot I just went ahead with what I had in the house.
- Light sand to blend into the surrounding area and transition the ridged section.
- Danish oil - spot application, followed by wider coverage, lots of wiping off to control the application (normally I'd do a couple of medium coats and leave)
- lots of bees wax and buff
It's clear the pink goop did stain the wood more than I thought. But over all it's less noticeable. Especially in the context of overall condition of the table top.
Ultimately this is why we bought all this cheap MCM furniture (at the time this was £50 collected from Kent) - looks nice, repairable, but not so expensive that you cry when your kids fuck it up.
If it survives maybe one day we'll get someone to professionally refinish it.
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- Light sand to blend into the surrounding area and transition the ridged section.
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• #1438
That’s a bit of a clash innit? Fuckery
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• #1439
Sorry but have to agree, picture nr2 it looks quite bad.
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• #1440
Also feel like a bit of contrast/metal/squareness might be better.
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• #1441
Magis deja vu?
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• #1442
More Magis, the extreme version, bureaurama.
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• #1443
I know that no one asked, but I wanted to look at bar stools.
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• #1445
I'm not sure that would work very well if they're already sealed. You'd need to sand them.
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• #1446
Yeah that's what I was thinking...
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• #1447
What's wrong with the originals? No back?
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• #1448
For when it’s time to take your ‘leaning back in your chair’ game to the next level…
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• #1449
Probably worth The og ones suit the space better than the new ones Imo so it might be worth image searching them + "backrest".
E.g these styles came up at the top for me, I'm sure there are lots of other options
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• #1450
Nice utilitarian vibes.
Do you think so? I'm sure it looked solid when we extended it for Xmas. Regardless I there is still a layer of whatever the material is, just not the surface finish.