Orient Express - Cheap Chinese Rims / Wheels / Forks / Frames / Cranks / Etc

I am new to this thread and am curious about the Chinese frames - has anyone had a bad experience ? There seems to be few negative comments about poor build or handling and most negativity is around the ordering/delivery process. Would anyone disagree ?

Has anyone any experience or comments about the replica Pinerello or similar pro machine paint jobs coming out of China/Taiwan ?

There are a couple of decent links at in the first couple of pages to threads with lots more people who have bought these frames. Overall the experiences seem positive, with a few unlucky ones mixed in, which lead me to buy mine. Only had it couple of weeks, but I must say I'm really happy with it so far. Your best bet is to take a look at the other forums and then make your decision from there.

Not going to weigh in on the asbestos side of this, as that depresses me, but I have definitely read that breathing in carbon fibres can be very harmful, as the lungs cannot break them down or something along those lines, and this can ultimately kill you, which is why professionals working on cutting carbon hold the fibre into a vacuum or work with it underwater.

I am new to this thread and am curious about the Chinese frames - has anyone had a bad experience ? There seems to be few negative comments about poor build or handling and most negativity is around the ordering/delivery process. Would anyone disagree ?

Has anyone any experience or comments about the replica Pinerello or similar pro machine paint jobs coming out of China/Taiwan ?

There's a MASSIVE thread or two on 'road bike review'. These contain experiances from customers, and covers the main suppliers and frames/components. I've linked to it on theis thread I'm sure. But if you are serious about parting with monies, and then sitting on your purchase down a 70 KPH decent. It must be worth an hour or so's reading.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/54cm-carbon-fiber-frame-forks-seatpost-/320761220413?pt=UK_sportsleisure_cycling_bikeparts_SR&hash=item4aaedbcd3d#ht_500wt_1204

looks very much like one of the chinarellos being resold, with some suspect cracks around the BB area - although the photos are too shit to really glean anything from!

Did this today with the wheel's on:

http://connect.garmin.com/activity/116920093

My biggest concern has always been what the braking would be like, but apart from a lot of pad transferring to the braking surface turning them yellow, and the noise, braking is fine.

The ride is extremely nice, and performance (considering the 50mm depth) was still good in a crosswind on the Hogs Back- although a firm grip on the bars was required.

I took a pre-stretched tub and some tape+pump with me, but did not have cause to need them.

Other than one tub taking up more room than two inner-tubes that aspect of things is hopefully covered.

Of course, I'll report back when I get a p_nctr in the pissing rain after 80 miles of hill climbing, in the dark.

is that the same route that nearly killed me?

Some of it- the route out and back, and also some of the climbs, but the other way from when we went out.

We had one hit and run, one big crash and a big bonk.

My biggest concern has always been what the braking would be like, but apart from a lot of pad transferring to the braking surface turning them yellow, and the noise, braking is fine.

I'm still on the stock pads (after ordering Campag Swissstop yellows, then not going with Campag brakes), and I have to say they work fine. Had some mad squeaking last night, when I sprinted up to a mini round-a-bout at 'beans' kph, only to be pulled out on. Did'nt die though, which was nice. Will upgrade my pads before hitting the mountains though.

After dialing* everything in. I took the bike on a few circuits of the hill behind my house. Its around 1.5km of 6-10 % climb, and I'm used to blasting it, out of the saddle, on the fixed. If you have any rear wheel flex, it will find it. Set the rear calipers up real close, and went for it. Only managed some very slight rub. So I'm well chuffed.

(*Getting a silly CNC'd alu cassette, kevlar cables, asymmetric chainrings, and a fiddly 11speed drivechain, to play nice, has been a challenge)

Some of it- the route out and back, and also some of the climbs, but the other way from when we went out.

We had one hit and run, one big crash and a big bonk.
2 Bonks.

Mine make a noise described by Object as "horrid" when braking, and looking at the braking surface they are far from smooth- I'll get a picture later but the ripples of the carbon substrate seem to have come through the epoxy, if that makes sense.

Pad deposition on the rims has flattened that out, but it's not ideal.

In terms of stiffness I reckon that the rear could do with more spoke tension, but I'm a bit wary about that- could do with getting the tensiometer on it.

However, the wheels spin up with very little sense of any inertia, and the ride on the tubs is really nice- feels very fluid, if that makes sense.

^ toe'd in your brake pads?

In terms of stiffness I reckon that the rear could do with more spoke tension, but I'm a bit wary about that- could do with getting the tensiometer on it.

Ive cranked my tension up pretty high (adding 1/8th turn to each spoke, over a few weeks to dial it in). I'm at an advantage here though. Because in order to have decent NDS tension, to prevent 'wind-up'. You usually need to have slightly scary tension on the driveside. My spokes have the same tension on both sides.

My brake tracks are slightly pitted, other than that they are flat. My TRP 960 brake calipers, are stiff as feck, and have a solid return spring. So I dont find grabbing to be a problem (yet). Still think some yellow swiss-stops woud be nice.

^ toe'd in your brake pads?

Yep, the Swiss Stop yellows wear fast so they could probably do with adjusting now though.

Ive cranked my tension up pretty high (adding 1/8th turn to each spoke, over a few weeks to dial it in). I'm at an advantage here though. Because in order to have decent NDS tension, to prevent 'wind-up'. You usually need to have slightly scary tension on the driveside. My spokes have the same tension on both sides.

My brake tracks are slightly pitted, other than that they are flat. My TRP 960 brake calipers, are stiff as feck, and have a solid return spring. So I dont find grabbing to be a problem (yet). Still think some yellow swiss-stops woud be nice.

There was a degree of "pulsing", where you could feel that the pads were grabbing some sections of the rim harder than other sections, but that was only noticeable as you came to a stop.

does anyone know anything about these guys based in Taiwan?http://www.evo.com.tw/manufacturer/23070/23070.html
anyone ordered anything from them??

That does seem poorly machined. Mine are pitted from poor air exclusion during molding. But the tracks are otherwise smooth.

Does not seem to have an effect on the braking- not that I have a "control" pair to judge against, but the brake pads are going down fast!

Reckon anything could be done?

go brakeless

Isn't that the idea with carbon rims, though? That it's not a good idea to allow the rim surface to wear down, so the pads are designed to wear instead?

could you carefully wet and dry them to be a bit smoother?

Does not seem to have an effect on the braking- not that I have a "control" pair to judge against, but the brake pads are going down fast!

Reckon anything could be done?

Pad wear was my concern. Most braking issues will be down to heat build up. Which a rippled brake surface is'nt going to increase. Of course you want the braking to be consistant above all else.