Orient Express - Cheap Chinese Rims / Wheels / Forks / Frames / Cranks / Etc

Bladed spokes are a waste of money.

From my random readings that appears to be true.

I think that thinner round ones are better aerodynamically.~~ I *think *cxrays are the thinnest - but that's from memory.~~

I cant say I've ever been overly worried that my spokes are slowing me down. But they are very stiff in the right direction, and you dont need to worry about wind-up when building them.

....and they look cool.

....and they look cool.

main reason i want them

Fashion victims thread >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

I'm sure I read that the process of flattening the spoke makes them really strong. Far stronger than equally lightweight non-bladed spokes like Sapim Laser.

I'm sure I read that the process of flattening the spoke makes them really strong. Far stronger than equally lightweight non-bladed spokes like Sapim Laser.

The figures suggest this. But I'm not sure how relavent this is, considering most spokes break at the bend.

I'm not sure how the added stiffness in the plane of the wheel, coupled with the reduced stiffness perpendicular to this, affects wheel stiffness. I'm guessing the result is not much different to a round spoke of the same gauge.

I am sure that they look cool though. Especially the wide ass ones I have one my rear wheel. (Dremelling slots a Tune Mag180 was'nt fun though)

You're all missing the critical feature- on a bladed spoke your wheel magnet doesn't rotate, and clip the GSC-10 leading to an annoying "tink tink tink" noise.

Fashion victims thread >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

Umm... this is the fashion victims thread...

2008: "how about those cool, heavy deep V rims?"

2011: "how about those cheap chinese tubs"

etc

You're all missing the critical feature- on a bladed spoke your wheel magnet doesn't rotate, and clip the GSC-10 leading to an annoying "tink tink tink" noise.

I have a GSC-10 in the post.

Going to couple it with my Bryton 35.

Had to Google that- looks like a nice unit.

More data!

As I'm more experianced running then cycling. I wanted heart rate data. To use the HR info while riding it seems smart to be able to compare speed, gradient, and cadence. I could use the GPS for speed, but I'm thinking that wont work if I cycle through km long tunnels, imbedded in big stone mountains. Hence the GSC-10. Not sure what HRM belt to go for though. The soft Garmin looks nice, but I've been reading about false readings.

The Bryton is kinda the Orient express route to Garmin functionality.

I'm right at the very beginning of training with a power meter, being able to overlay that with heart rate information and cadence is (for me, anyway) very interesting.

I did an hours session last night, and during the warm up phase a quick sprint hit ~750 watts, and my heart rate didn't go beyond 150, then after about 55 minutes of 225W running a couple of quick sprints up to 4-500W saw my heart rate hit 176, and take a long time to settle back to 155 again.

This is only on the turbo, be interested to see what sustained gradients do to heart rate and power.

First interesting thing to come out of it is that I can produce the same power with a heart rate 10 bpm lower if I spin a lower gear faster (than a bigger gear span more slowly).

This is something I kind of always knew, but seeing it for yourself does a good job of convincing you that it is actually true!

First interesting thing to come out of it is that I can produce the same power with a heart rate 10 bpm lower if I spin a lower gear faster (than a bigger gear span more slowly).

This is something I kind of always knew, but seeing it for yourself does a good job of convincing you that it is actually true!

i did 90mins on a treadmill to convince myself, that my heartrate would not increase due purely to distance ran. (You need to keep your blood volume constant). Experiment like this, really improved my half-marathon times.

I'm hoping that a little data will have the same effect on my cycling. I'm currently basically fit, and strong. But a shite cyclist.

My heart rate always climbs when running, clearly I am doing it wrong.

First interesting thing to come out of it is that I can produce the same power with a heart rate 10 bpm lower if I spin a lower gear faster (than a bigger gear span more slowly).

Did you do these efforts immediately after each other or with a gap between them? Are you aware of 'cardiac drift' when looking at your HR info?

My heart rate always climbs when running, clearly I am doing it wrong.

Drink more.

When you're dehydrated you lose blood volume. Your blood also thickens slightly. This increases your heart rate.

Did you do these efforts immediately after each other or with a gap between them? Are you aware of 'cardiac drift' when looking at your HR info?

They were only quick spins- the first one very quick, just to get some warmth into my legs.

The last spike was 30 seconds or so at ~400W, what I was interested in was how long my heart took to "calm down" afterward.

What the whole thing underlines is how far I have to go over the winter!

are you training for something next year, Neil?

Intention is Paris-Roubaix, however I've just been told that I'll need surgery on my other foot in the New Year, which might make things tricky.

In the meantime I am going to train for it, and see if I can set a world record for recovering from the surgery.

EDIT: I'd also just like to be quicker in general

take it you won't be riding carbon tubs for Roubaix?!

That's why he's buying knockoffs. Ride Roubaix, bin.

Umm... this is the fashion victims thread...

2008: "how about those cool, heavy deep V rims?"

2011: "how about those cheap chinese tubs"

etc

Are you suggesting I have a lack of self awareness?

Cheeky.

take it you won't be riding carbon tubs for Roubaix?!

No, the infamous Skylark wheels will do that duty.

Although, I reckon the tubs would do pretty well with some of these: http://www.ribblecycles.co.uk/sp/road-track-bike/Pave-Evo-CG-Tubular/VITTTUBA863?utm_campaign=Googlebase&utm_medium=organic&utm_source=Googlebase

However I don't want to crack a rim mid ride so Open Pro's will be the default choice- unless that is one of the Motorcycle appreciation boys fancies riding along behind us with spare wheels?

That's why he's buying knockoffs. Ride Roubaix, bin.

And whilst this is delivered couched in "I can afford Zipps, ner ni ner ner", it is essentially spot on- I can afford to bin one of the Chinese rims, a Zipp would be a bit more painful.