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• #2527
Does anyone know if the Pompetamine forks are okay to be drilled?
http://www.on-one.co.uk/i/q/FOOOP12/on_one_pompetamine_2012_fork
It would be for adding a rack rather than a brake
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• #2528
Tektro mini vs are £20 for the set at Planet x, and Condor do nice brake levers for £20 so you could save £50 there
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• #2529
^ yep - Sram levers are definately not budget
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• #2530
Does anyone know if the Pompetamine forks are okay to be drilled?
http://www.on-one.co.uk/i/q/FOOOP12/on_one_pompetamine_2012_fork
It would be for adding a rack rather than a brake
Aren't the pet fork already drilled? If not I'm sure it'd be ok as they are basically the same with different brake mounts.
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• #2531
The back of mine is drilled and tapped for a mudguard bolt, but not drilled through.
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• #2532
Cool, cheers guys
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• #2533
PX just posted this pic in FB
Yeah I saw that last week too. The spec is very impressive for the money. I just built up a Cross Check otherwise I would have gone for this.
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• #2534
next question.
Any recommendations for a 135mm fixed rear hub?
I'm considering getting a Pompetamine and running it fixed gear, or am I better off getting a Pompino and using a Pompetamine fork so I can still run a disc on the front?
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• #2535
A rear fixed hub with a disc brake mount, for a pompetamine? Surly do them
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• #2536
A rear fixed hub with a disc brake mount, for a pompetamine? Surly do them
aha, cheers.
Would probably only run a disc up front but these look spot on.
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• #2537
^they are good. My brother runs one and its been no hassle for over 4 years.
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• #2538
awesome thanks,
I'm putting together a list of what I want on this bike with a view to start building it around Sep/Oct when I have the cash ... so I'll be in this thread asking questions loads I reckon.
Any issues working out chainline with a 135mm rear hub? I've only ever had bikes with 120mm spacing so it's always been fairly easy.
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• #2539
They are not the same hub shell spaced differently and are therefore not interchangeable: 120mm Surly New hubs: 42.5mm chainline 130mm Surly New hubs: 47.5mm chainline 135mm Surly New hubs: 53.5mm chainline (designed to run the ring on the outside tab of a 50mm chainline system, 50mm being the MTB standard) Where you place the ring on the crank (middle or outer position) and bottom bracket spindle length will affect your chainline, so eye it up.
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• #2540
I should learn to read websites better.
Cheers man.
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• #2541
next question.
Any recommendations for a 135mm fixed rear hub?
I'm considering getting a Pompetamine and running it fixed gear, or am I better off getting a Pompino and using a Pompetamine fork so I can still run a disc on the front?
does it have to be fixed and disc at the same time? You could use any normal disc wheel flipped over with a bolt on cog if not
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• #2542
Wouldnt that type of wheel (generally) be 120mm spaced?
Some washers always work fine.
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• #2543
does it have to be fixed and disc at the same time? You could use any normal disc wheel flipped over with a bolt on cog if not
no, I'm only going to be running a disc on the front so the rear hub only needs to be fixed and 135mm, then I just need to wrap my head around chainline to decide on cranks/BB (ideally want GXP BB)
also just seen these: http://www.ecrater.co.uk/p/10369699/because-rear-hub?gps=1
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• #2544
no, I'm only going to be running a disc on the front so the rear hub only needs to be fixed and 135mm, then I just need to wrap my head around chainline to decide on cranks/BB (ideally want GXP BB)
In that case you could use something like this: http://www.velosolo.co.uk/shopdisc.html with a standard (and cheap) mountain bike hub and have the freehub on the non-drive side. The upside to this, you can bang a big sprocket on the freehub with some spaces, flip the wheel and come play polo on it. More info on this stuff here http://www.velosolo.co.uk/faq.html#a5
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• #2545
I'll check all that out, cheers.
Those bolt on cogs look decent.
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• #2546
If you're going for a bolt-on sprocket on a front hub (HB-M756, for example), it's worth getting it spaced asymmetrically to give a 46-47mm chainline to match the outer ring of a road crank, as this also makes the wheel build dishless. A singlespeed MTB hub is another option, bolt on cog on the disc carrier and a freehub on the other side in case you change your mind, again much stronger wheel build than a 10-speed freehub thanks to the lack of dish.There are reasonably priced Taiwanese options (I actually have one for sellz, very reasonable) or you can bling it up with a Hope hub, as I have on my Pompetamine. Chainline will be about 50-52mm on the bolt on sprocket if you use a rear hub, which will work with MTB cranks.
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• #2547
to save all this hassle though I could just get a Pompino and use a fork that has disc brake mounts? Then I dont need to mess around with 135mm spacing.
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• #2548
Yes, that's an option too. Pompetamine fork is the same geometry as the Pompino fork.
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• #2549
to save all this hassle though I could just get a Pompino and use a fork that has disc brake mounts? Then I dont need to mess around with 135mm spacing.
Yes you could do that. I'm recommending disc brakes though. After being initially sceptical, and taking my time about learning how to align them properly, I'm a convert. They'll stop you dead and they're great in the wet.
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• #2550
Cool. I'll do that then. I only want a front disc brakes, no rear brake so it seems silly to get a pompetamine and faff about with silly sized hubs. Cheers guys.
Also as this is a budget build - can I expect to beat this?
Opinions or cheap sales of items welcome!