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• #952
Yes, 4p cheaper at Merlin
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• #953
So I'm after resin pads?
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• #954
Depends if you are eating through them. Maybe Kevlar if you are - a middle ground between sintered and organic.
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• #955
I'm not eating them. Id prefer best performance. Is that resin?
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• #956
Define 'best performance'. It really depends on what you use it for.
Reason for this is, with organic (resin) pads they are softer, gives you better modulation but wears out much quicker.
With kevlar or metallic pads, they are harder and all being equal, wear much longer compared to organic pads, they are apparently also supposed to offer you much better braking power - marketing blurb or not, I dont know.
I use organic pads for my BB7 and M615 for polo and I also commute to work on the same bike and I find it adequate enough for both purposes either in dry or wet conditions.
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• #957
I've got four unused trp spyre pad sets - yours for £10 if you want em
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• #958
Does anyone have experience with these ebay 'avid hs1' discs? I am guessing at £5 they are chinese specials?
They would be going on a road bike.
Also any recommendations for replacement Hayes MX-5 pads?
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• #959
I think they're just the old avid jobbies, might come out a factory back door but will probably work fine.
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• #960
Cheers. I've ordered one.
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• #961
Will this not flex under heavy braking?
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• #962
What do you mean by "this" in that picture?
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• #963
brake mount given how less 'material' it has ..
Or does it have something to do with direction? -
• #964
Tubes are probably suitably beefy and thru axles are pretty solid.
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• #965
Out of interest what's the frame?
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• #966
Wind cycleworks
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• #967
It's an interesting design - looks like the seatstay will be pulled whilst the chainstay gets pushed when you grab the brakes.
I can see why the seatstay mount might raise eyebrows
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• #968
Will it work though? Does it have any advantage? Esp with the new gen flat mount stuff.
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• #969
Found this. maybe relevant to someone's interest!
Chainstay mounted cable caliper with cable along toptube:
That setup was done, just because we could - and to see how well it
worked (which was fine). The Avid mech arm can be re-installed every
60 deg, because it sits on an hex key. The return spring was
re-positioned to provide a similar return force. The frame was
designed to handle the earlier version of BB7 caliper, which had a
longer arm, but I did not have one handy to modify by the time this
project happened. The pictured setup is on a MTB tandem, and there is
no shortage of braking power. -
• #970
Thanks. I can understand the concern.
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• #971
Having some funny issue with my first disc bike, Caadx with Sram Rival hydros. I bedded in the pads but was having a bit of trouble with the rotor rubbing, centred the caliper and all was good. Except now every time I brake, it almost feels like I can feel the vents on the rotors 'chk-chk-chking' through the brake pads. The brakes stop fine, loads of power, but surely it's not meant to be like this? The rear brake also now makes a horrific squealing noise.
Apologies for disc brake noobness.
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• #972
possibly dirt on rotor, or slightly warped rotor
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• #973
Have you checked the caliper doesn't clip the spokes when braking? Had a similar issue with my set up. 1mm spacer behind the rotor solved it...
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• #974
Yeah, could be pushing the rotor onto the caliper. If the caliper wasn't centred properly when initially set up then that could cause it. Take out the pads and spread the pistons then line up the rotor work the centre of the caliper, then brake a few times with the pads back in. If you can't get the rotor central within its normal adjustment then space the rotor like Andy said or space the caliper over with a couple of washers behind the adapter.
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• #975
Beside the other recommendation others made, caliper might not have clear rotor well.
These:
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/mobile/shimano-deore-m515-b01s-disc-brake-pads/rp-prod27245