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• #6327
At a guess without having done any research at all whatsoever, something from the Guide or Level family?
Would any hydro lever do?
Anything that uses Dot will not fuck it up completely...
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• #6328
Avid or Sram MTB range.
Or you might wanna get some cheap Shimano jobbie: https://www.decathlon.co.uk/mt200-brake-kit-id_8565542.html £19.99 for a complete brake, can't go wrong with that...
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• #6329
Guessing it's flat mount.
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• #6330
Yup, flat mount
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• #6331
Replaced my old spyres with some hydraulic Force brakes and need an adaptor, I think IS to FM? Not sure. Can anyone help?
Rotor is 160
Basically that on to that
1 Attachment
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• #6333
Thanks.
I’m fucked then..
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• #6334
And this: https://spokeydokeybikes.co.uk/blog/
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• #6335
Thank you. This could be the answer
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• #6336
Anyone tried Uber Kevlar pads?
https://www.uberbikecomponents.com/view-product/Uberbike-SRAM-Level-Ultimate-Level-TLM-Kevlar-Disc-Brake-PadsThey are described as soft compound, I've been using their Race-Matrix and they scream in the wet. Fine for trashing in a CX race, not great on the road.
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• #6337
Yeah they are good for racing and demanding stuff. Wouldn’t put them on a commuter
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• #6338
Are you referring to the the Race Matrix or have you used their red Kevlar soft pads? May just take a punt and see.
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• #6339
I have two disc wheelsets - One is 6 bolt, and one is centrelock.
The front rotor of the 6 bolt wheel sits further inboard than the centrelock wheel. What is the best way to shim the rotor such that caliper alignment remains when switching between wheels? Is there a way of doing this which ensures solid, noise—free braking? I ask as I've read somewhere that shimming a rotor can introduce problems.
Also, any reliable way of measuring by how much distance the two rotors are out of alignment? Or is it pretty much just a case of trial and error? I'd imagine we're talking sub mm margins here, perhaps 1.5 mm absolute max
Many thanks!
Edit: Scrap the above. found a solution, in case anyone else is looking I've ordered these: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Disc-Brake-Rotor-Shims-0-2mm-Fibrax/283442153394?epid=9024730372&hash=item41fe7807b2:g:tpkAAOSwp-Fcp4P4
since I need sub mm shimming. Oddly they come in packs of 10
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• #6340
If youre using cable discs this is a fools errand. If youre using hydro discs its easy. Keep in mind your rotors may be different widths
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• #6341
Using hydro so no probs there, but yes good point re rotor width, hadn't yet considered that
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• #6342
Utfs suggests people were fairly pleased with their juin tech brakes a year or two ago. Any recent developments to consider before I get a pair?
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• #6343
Still pleased, not as good as full hydro but I'm also poor.
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• #6344
Good to know, thanks. Not the poor bit, the pleased bit.
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• #6345
Thinking of getting a S&S coupler "travel bike" built with old etap, but am thinking discs would also make sense.
What are my options for mechanical calipers other than TRP Spyre SLC's that are also light-ish? Do I need to look at hybrid juin tech solutions?
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• #6346
Juintech are better than spyres, but spyres are OK.
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• #6347
Why no hydro? Connect-a-majigs seem to work pretty well in my experience.
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• #6348
Guessing they've already got non hydro etap shifters.
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• #6349
Yeah, a mate is selling a complete etap upgrade set due to axs upgrade.
I like the idea of etap on a travel bike, seems the best logical application. But as I would need a frame made specifically for this , i was thinking if disc could be a valid option over direct mount.
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• #6350
I've got some of the newish dual pot juin techs in their way to me. GT-p or something.
Apologies if this has been covered already,but anyone knows what's a flat bar hydro lever compatible with sram rival 1?
Would any hydro lever do?