Anyone know anything about disc brakes?

Its these. Looks to be 1.5mm minimum. Like I said only on my second pair of (organic) shimano pads so a bit dissapointing if they are worn out

https://www.wiggle.co.uk/shimano-xt-and-saint-rt81-ice-tec-cl-rotor/

Think I heard that ice tech wear quite quickly - its like all things brake related -in general the better the grip the quicker the wear.

What is the forum approved centrelock rotor then?

Ice tec....? They are up there in terms of stopping power from what I've heard.

I've generally just used what ever is to hand and found more difference can be made switching pads than rotor. Clearly when the rotors wear out its a different story.

slightly offtopic:
How to measure sub-mm:

I'm really struggling to wrap my head around this...why have they picked the twentieth line? Do none of the other lines on the minor scale line up?

yes its clearer to see in real life...

The line they claim is the 22mm line is in fact the 23mm line.

ha yeah bad picture (removed it)

3 years is an impressive length for a rotors, if there’s a lips = worn.

Ice tech are great, but they are the only rotor I've actually managed to wear completely out.

Hold my beer

Thank for holding;

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What's wrong here? It's just a floating disc

This was the measurement I took, so 1.7mm? The deep groove is mostly on the left hand side of the disc which may be why its squeaking so much

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Those rotors will show you when you've gone too far as you'll see the alu core.

Disc brake woes continue. Fitted brand new Sram centreline rotors, 160mm -> 180mm f+r. Aligned calliper, gave pads a scrub with sand-paper to remove any 'glaze' and went for the obligatory ride around the block.

Front brake still useless, the rear brake works fine. When I squeeze the front brake it sounds normal but does nothing. I can pull the lever as hard as possible and still turn the wheel by pushing the bike.

Rear brake works like a dream. Tried changing pads around, as my rear pads are a mix of organic and sintered (one fell out), hoping that was the issue. Now the rear brake works better than before, and the front worse. Changing the pads resulted in a lot more throw (/travel?) in the lever in the front brake (now sintered/organic), and the rear is a lot firmer with 2 sintered pads.

Only thing I can think of is that the front brake must really need a bleed. What a faff!

Pads being worn different amounts is why they now feel different, take the bike to a shop for the front.

I'd figured as much, given the different compounds and all. I just wasn't expecting there to be such a massive difference in stopping power; before swapping the pads both brakes felt exactly the same, yet the front was still underpowered.
Any particular reason to take it to a shop? I'm sure this may be above my level of skill, I'd just rather figure try and fix it myself if possible.

Assuming the front brake doesnt just need a bleed, Hope do an excellent brake service for c.£45. Brake will come back with new pads, seals, bled. Working like new.
Assume you have followed instructions on equalising pistons and cleaning pistons with the plumbers lube they recommend?

It's not power, they feel different because the pads that were worn less are now in the caliper that had self adjusted it's pistons to pads with more wear and are closer to the rotor so less lever throw, unless you reset the pistons between swaps. Take it to a shop because it sounds weird and they hopefully know what they're doing, if the lever feels normal but there's not enough power to stop you moving the wheel by hand it's not a common problem, especially if you've already swapped out pads and rotors.

Hmmm, I reset pistons before installing new rotors as they were wider, not before swapping pads. Good point.
I'm going to swap pads around again, so sintered at the front, and bleed both. If that fails I'll take it to a shop or send them to Hope.

Good to know it's not a common problem! I thought I was just being thick. Probably am.

That's not bad given the price of pads. Last time I bled them I followed the instructions of whatever video I was watching, pretty sure I equalised pistons.... had no idea about the plummers lube!

Yep. Used to replace hose as part of service as well if damaged but last time charged me extra. Along with general longevity and UK company, this is the main reason I use Hope as I know if cant fix myself then can just send back to factory. Take pads out before send back.

Hunters Silicone Lube is what hope recommend. Comes in a 30ml bottle. Dont know if any silicone lube will do and whether they picked this as doesnt contain any seal degrading additives. Just used it this morning to get the pistons on my X2s moving, one piston was locked solid. The Hope tech films show how.