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• #6227
Never seen any IRL but servowave lever and 4 pot so will fine, probably work as well as the better ones but weigh more and no ceramic pistons.
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• #6228
Looks like they have ceramic pistons:
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• #6229
Oh yeah.
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• #6230
Actually, ignore me.
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• #6231
I managed to mangle my pad axle screw as its a flat head screw and I'm incompetent.
Anyone know of a replacement part not made of cheese? For 105 BR-R7070.
These look better but don't think they're compatible.
https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/brakes/shimano-deore-xt-brm785-pad-axle-snap-ring-y8jz98010/
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• #6232
A very common issue. I've reverted to getting the correct spec flathead screwdriver which gives a better purchase, putting a dab of grease on the threads, and only torquing to finger tight.
Two alternative options:
- Use split pins
- The swissstop screws are a lot higher quality, but unsure if they're available separately.
- Use split pins
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• #6233
This happens a lot, I always stick a teeny bit of anti-seize on the threads of any that come through, the Allen head ones for MTB are better but still good to grease the threads.
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• #6234
Cheers both. Will defo be greasing it up when I replace it - if / when I get it out.
Will pick up the swisstop pads (£18 for a set of pads....)
https://www.wiggle.co.uk/swissstop-organic-disc-pads-1/
Think it's the D34 RS I need for my calipers. Looks like it's a hex key bolt so I'm abit less likely to make a mess of it.
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• #6235
Getting it out can be a fucker. I find a screwdriver bit held tightly in place with a big set of mole grips (although a better clamp would be better) and then turned with a small adjustable can work to get it going when normal screwdriving isn't doing it, a mate of mine says a drill can grab them quite well although I've not tried that. I have disassembled a caliper and clamped the axle once too, that one was a dickhead.
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• #6236
Let me know how you get on with them if you buy them. I too am a poor man in search of 4-pots
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• #6237
MT5s are very good too, can be had for similar money.
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• #6238
Nice, for no reason at all I like those better. Maybe an aversion to Shimano/SRAM mixing?
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• #6239
For the record I took my bike back to the shop that set up the hyrdos for me and they checked for leaks, topped up the fluid and now it's works perfectly. So I think it was just that they under filled it before, maybe didn't knock out enough of the air in the system or something.
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• #6240
https://www.cnc-bike.de/product_info.php?products_id=17845 Cheap MT4s if you get rid of the little switch in the lever.
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• #6241
Yeah, as a matter of course I replace my pad retainers with these because I carry allen keys not fucking flat head screwdrivers. Why Shimano doesn't make the allen key version standard I don't know.
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• #6242
Those are really old - look at the master. Not that cheap for lower tier ten year old brakes!
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• #6243
Yeah lesson learned - I've filed it under things to remember and pass on to others when using disc brake bikes for the first time -such as and don't pull the levers when the wheel is removed - much swearing with a multi tool to pry back the pistons.
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• #6244
I've not done the second one yet but it will happen... one day...
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• #6245
I asked this on the FBNPNA thread but thought I'd try here too:
What's the best bang-for-buck hydraulic brake option for flat bars?
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• #6246
Your basic Shimano MTB set, just pick your price point.
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• #6247
https://www.cnc-bike.de/product_info.php?products_id=15821 Might be the wrong way round though.
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• #6248
Thanks for that.
Do you mean wrong way round as in left hand front?
Could just swap it over, no? Although they come already prepped. -
• #6249
I'd like to swap my TRP spyres to something hydraulic (hence the questions).
Is there anything I need to look out for regarding the fitting or should it be a straight swap? -
• #6250
I have disassembled a caliper and clamped the axle once too, that one was a dickhead.
That sweet sweet last resort. had a set once where the owner went neanderthal with various incorrect tools. Made an utter mess of both the pad bolt and the caliper bolts (Don't ask). Had to drill that pad bolt out and push it out of the other side.
Threads were intact. I was proud that day.
Yeah, my way is that, plus connect the caliper with the bleed tubing and bottle.
Open caliper port, drip, closed, squeeze levers, repeat open calipers until it start to feel a lots firmer.