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• #127
Now there's an idea! Would that work with discs?
Yes
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• #128
All good stuff for me to read and think about. Cheers both
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• #129
Now there's an idea! Would that work with discs?
Yes
Have a look at all the adjustable options that paragon do :-)
https://www.paragonmachineworks.com/cgi-bin/commerce.cgi?search=action&category=0006
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• #130
Or my cross biek
The pms ones are awesome but hideous expensive.
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• #131
^ Boast post.
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• #132
Stanton is done btw
Check ya book face
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• #133
Ooh!
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• #134
Cable inner/outers of choice for mechanical disc brakes?
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• #135
Gore if you can get hold of them - shimano / sram only thou
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• #136
Anything sold as compressionless tends to be good. I quite like the Jagwire stuff.
Even basic stuff can be made to work well if you get the outers nice & flat.
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• #137
If for drop bars standard outer from leaver to headtube then adjuster then full length compressionless for the rest.
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• #138
Yeah I'd imagine there's precisely naff all difference in weight rd vs MTb.
OTP 29ers wheelset can be get as low as 1500g.
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• #139
The main con apart from compatibility, is slightly slower wheel removal.
I didn't know you race.
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• #140
I didn't know you race.
I know a man who does.
Edit - I don't think disc brakes were that common the last* time I did a race :-/
*first and last
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• #141
TRP Hylex, anyone used them for any length of time? How do they compare to something like a mid-level MTB brake (Shimano SLX).
Any experiences with bleeding them?
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• #142
I can tell you one thing that I notice seemed to be standard in all their brakeset.
Replace the pads, and possibly rotor.
Pads wear out stupidly quickly, the rotor might be fine, but there's a chance it may be poorly made, I swapped mine for the Shimano Ice Tech rotor, which have a noticable improvement (felt much smoother).
Bit annoying, as the brakes itself are great, let down by crap pads adding to the cost.
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• #143
Yeah, I used a Spyre for a while. The stock pads didn't work well at all with a (fresh) shimano rotor. Would grab/slip/grab and cause judder.
Did exactly what you said, swapped out for a shimano rotor and stock resin pads.
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• #144
Did you do anything to stop the juddering? it look to be the pads moving while under braking.
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• #145
Swapping to shimano pads cured it instantly, then a little adjustment of preload on the headset to stop squeal.
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• #146
TRP Hylex, anyone used them for any length of time? How do they compare to something like a mid-level MTB brake (Shimano SLX).
Any experiences with bleeding them?
Doesn't Soul have them on his all weather commuter? Or has that been replaced by his scooter?
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• #147
Superstar cheapie sintered pads are a worthwhile sidegrade if you have the stock TRP pads as they don't instantly turn to dust in the face of a bit of grit and water.
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• #148
+1 for superstar pads (& rotors).
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• #149
The TRP bites amazingly well the first time I've tried it, which set the alarm bell ringing, usually it take a lots longer for the pads to finally start wearing in to bite properly.
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• #150
Which Superstar pads were they? S5?
Thru-axles make a lot of sense for disc forks; Both in the secure method of holding the wheel and cutting down on flex in suspension forks. They're also handy for mtb full suss designs, as they have a separate rear triangle, which can also get a bit flexy. This doesn't tend to be a problem with a regular double diamond bike frame.
The main con apart from compatibility, is slightly slower wheel removal.