Winter bike / Snow bike thread

I'd forgotten that you were going 175 and I can understand it better when you describe the 29er you have.

It's looking like an interesting build, can't wait to see the reaction over at MBR when you get it rolling.
175?

I take it you mean 170 rear hub, in which case you usually need to go 170 OLD. If you want the possibility of a 29er wheelset. The 17.5mm offset frames require the rim to be offset by the same amount to keep everthing in line. That said, I'm sure folk have gotten around it.

There's no iron clad excuse for building a 5th bike. Simply, I love building bikes, have the space, and actually consider it economical. As the wear and tear is spread over more bikes, which are in turn more fit-for-purpose, than a do-it-all.

....well thats my excuse ;)

I'll probably post the build on MTBR's fatbike thread. Those folks have been the source of both info and inspiration.

...consider it economical. As the wear and tear is spread over more bikes, which are in turn more fit-for-purpose, than a do-it-all.

Nice try.

You think you'll ever need 183 for the front?
Seems somewhat overkill.

Fat tyres and rims are heavy, so they take a lot of stopping. Big rotors just reduce the brake lever force needed to do the job. Fat wheels are also quite a bit bigger (rolling diameter) than normal 26" MTB wheels, so you'd need to increase the rotor size just to maintain the same mechanical advantage.

I have 203mm front rotors on my MTB and Pompetamine, the extra few grams for the big rotors is well worth it for the easy power and great modulation. I don't think I'd ever be happy with titchy rotors again.

Just seen this on Salsa's blog. Post Apocalyptic bike advert?!

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^ nice.

Anyone know what the (carbon?) forks are?

^ nice.

Anyone know what the (carbon?) forks are?

White Bros, not sure what model though...

Fat wheels are also quite a bit bigger (rolling diameter) than normal 26" MTB wheels, so you'd need to increase the rotor size just to maintain the same mechanical advantage.

I'm aware of this but I was thinking more about the speeds that a snow bike is likely to be capable of travelling.

In the sort of terrain and weather that I could imagine using a fat bike I'd imagine that coming to a complete stop could usually be achieved by stopping pedalling and rolling to a halt. Obviously I'm not advocating brakeless but I can't see larger rotors being required either.

But you don't size your brakes for rolling through a foot of powder, where as you say brakes are all but redundant, you size them for bombing down a dry tarmac road hill towards a T-junction, because that's the most extreme braking you'll need. Particularly as smallfurry is building thins thing cargo capable, and it may therefore be his first choice for some summer shopping trips in addition to its main purpose.

I guess I'm ignoring the summer application as I'd hope he'd use his 29er instead.
Realistically I'm just jealous he has enough snow to warrant a fatbike.

Lots of fun to be had on a fat bike without snow too...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LKJBXTiM-PA

FTR.

Front rotor size will be determined by the forks post mount specs.

I have just discovered Campy used to make BMX cranks 30 years back.

Another 30 years and you might realise that writing "Campy" when you mean Campagnolo marks you out as a noob or, worse, a 'Merkin

just been pissing about on the net and stumbled upon this... does it count?

This is winter bikes, not fat bikes, so your skinny-tyred* offering is fine if it's for use during the cold months.

*Compared with this↓, for example.

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This was in porn some time ago. Really love the setup which I personally think would be one of the best for fast and fairly practical mild winter commuting. And it looks rather good, even when slightly dirty.

Perfect for commuting on maintained roads.

The only issue with CX bikes is the amount od weight over the front. This does make things fun though.

Ordered those Ti rocker drop-outs today.

Internal cable routing confirmed.

Coming home from UK hols with Jone Cut-H bar, a XTR cassette, and a X.0 short cage mech.

Just need to confirm fork crown clearance, and gusset/reinforcement placement.

Coming along nicely :D

just for you sweet cheek;

http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=_OtPoDOkgJo

I've seen that TBH.

2 things sprung to my mind.

1)That is the exact boundry conditions, where a 3.8" tyre at 12 PSI, works and a 2.2" 45 PSI tyre doesnt. So a tad unfair.
2) Feck me, the pugsly rider is working hard to go not very fast. So not a massive endorsment.

Still. I rode a similar trail a month ago on a CX bike. There was a foot wide hardpack line I had to balance on.

I fell off a lot, and had longings for a fatbike.

Another 30 years and you might realise that writing "Campy" when you mean Campagnolo marks you out as a noob or, worse, a 'Merkin

Or clever Shimano user.

Campy! Campy! Campy! Campy! Campy! Campy! Campy! Campy! Campy! Campy!

Well, Larry aint skinny.

how long did that take to pump?

15psi?

To 2 PSI? He probably blew it up himself

how long did that take to pump?

Ages.

I was going sloww too. I have some felt material (found it in the work room) as rim tape, as its only mounted for measuring dimensions. Plus the inner is a DH one , not a fatbike one, so needed over inflation.

Doesnt feel that heavy though, and I'm really pleased with the profile and fit on a 80mm rim.

15psi?

Something like that. My track pump is difficult too read at such low PSI. Planned to give it 30, to bed the bead. But did'nt need to.

Itsstupidly bouncy right now. Will probably run 8/10 PSI.