Winter bike / Snow bike thread

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  • Yes, Ed, that's why he suffixed his comment with "haha", indicating his humorous intent.

  • Wheel covers?! OMG! I just paid some guy in Tokyo £4000 for that winter fixeh skiddah. OMG!

  • Wheel covers are good on snow.
    Same principle as snow socks, innit.

  • Must point out the Crosscheck is the only one with rims brakes, which I think Smallfurry would rather have disc over that.

    True. forgot about that.

    I have full Vee brakes currently. Decent brake set-up. But in snow they clog in the right conditions.

    With the Fatbike on the way. The winter abilitys of the CX commuter are less important. But I'm looking at it as a winter roadie. With the fatbike as a winter off-roader. Front and rear pannier mounts are far more important to me. The disc trucker is a good option. Doesnt come with grown-up sized wheels in my size though. Just want to swap across my current set-up, and up-grade the brakes. Interestingly the Kona ute would work perfectly as a donor frameset. Its just not availible as a frameset. Bum!

    In other news. My Big fat larrys have cleared customs, and will likely get here on Tuesday. Exactly as I leave for the UK. Bum!

  • Just had my custom fat frame order confirmed, and am ordering the post mount, rocker style, paragon machine works, drop outs.

    Been spending silly amounts of time on BikeCad, and going back and forth to my 29er. To check how my adjustments affect, my position, weight distribution etc. But I just end up back at my original geometry each time. So I'm pretty confident about it. Needed to keep my center of gravity slightlky further back then I would for a standard MTB. To make it easier to handle in winter conditions.

    The builder will get back to me with his thoughts on this. But, I'm not sure about the need for gusseting, and I havent even suggested tube dimensions. But as Triton build mainly trials frames. I'm confident they know how to build a frame, that will cope with being thrown around by an uncoordinated lump like me.

    Bloody excited. To put it mildly.

  • Go on then, post your BikeCAD and let us see what you're creating.

  • Go on then, post your BikeCAD and let us see what you're creating.

    Its on the last page.....

    But as youre the boss man....

    The top tube will meet the headtube slightly lower, and the downtube slightly higher than on that drawing. I will might have a little reinforcment there as well. But otherwise thats it.

    1.5" headtube, and rocker drop outs.

  • No measurements. No BikeCAD.

  • Freaking hell, you're building a tank!

  • Its on the last page.....

    Figured you were still tweaking. Always with the tweaking.

  • No measurements. No BikeCAD.

    BikeCad fries my Thin Client thingie at work.

    ETT 580mm
    HT 110mm
    HT extention upper 22mm
    HT extention lower 15mm
    HT dimensions 1.5"
    ST (c-t) 405mm
    ST(c-c) 340mm
    BB drop 60mm
    CS 452mm
    TT angle 24,5 Deg
    HT angle 70 Deg
    ST angle 73,5 Deg
    Tyre clearance 120mm
    Rear OLD 170mm
    BB width 100mm
    Reach 403mm
    Stack 592mm
    Fork ATC 460mm
    Tyre width 110mm
    radius at max tyre width 352mm
    External tyre radius 373mm
    Drop outs. DS0027, PMW Rocker dropouts, with hanger and post mount.
    Small gusset DT-HT
    Small gusset TT-ST
    Cable guide locations rear brake -Internal through left side of TT, 2x under left SS
    Cable guide locations rear mech - Internal through right side of TT, 2x under right SS
    Cable guide type for zip tying continous outers
    Finish Beadblast
    Decals mirror
    Bottle cage mount 1 ST, 116mm, and 180mm from BB center
    Bottle cage mount 2 DT, 226mm, and 290mm from BB center
    Bottle cage mount 3 under DT, 50mm, and 114mm from BB center)
    Lower rack mounts on SS, 100mm from drop out.
    Upper rack mounts on SS, 418mm from drop out.
    Rider height 170cm
    Rider inseam 76cm
    Rider weight 84Kg
    Saddle height (from BB) 673mm
    Effective stem length (with cut-H bars) 80mm
    Cranklenth 165mm
    Chainline 62mm
    Headset upper Hope 1.1/8" integral. ZS49/28.6, or Cane creek SHIS:ZS49 - 1.5" to 1-1/8" Threadless
    Headset lower Hope 1.5" traditional. EC49/40, or Cane creek SHIS:EC49/40 - 1.5" Traditional (TR 1.5")

  • Awesome, that's pretty much my polo bike, which will also be my winter bike when it has 2.3 tyres on it.

  • Freaking hell, you're building a tank!

    Well the Ti was intended for missile use.

    Thats the winter format, with 4.5" tyres. In the summer I will look to run 3.7" tyres, and push the rear wheel in some. With the 1.5" headtube, I could also fit an angleset headset, and have winter and summer headset angles. But thats a faff.

  • Damn!
    Dibs when you sell it.

  • Figured you were still tweaking. Always with the tweaking.

    Sent 3 E-mails today already.

    Confirmed drop-outs.

    Looking at trials frames made me think about internal cable routing for rear brake and mech (snowbike use continous cable outers anyway)

    Realised the rocker drop-outs placement of the rear brake caliper inside the rear triangle (which I love), affect cable routing, so moved seat stay brake cable routing to underside of seatstay.

    #annoyingcustomer

  • Well the Ti was intended for missile use.

    Thats the winter format, with 4.5" tyres. In the summer I will look to run 3.7" tyres, and push the rear wheel in some. With the 1.5" headtube, I could also fit an angleset headset, and have winter and summer headset angles. But thats a faff.

    It's been interesting watching your deisgn progress. I've been following the fat bike threads on MBR as I'm loving all the innovation and have seen your questions as things have progressed. I see that a lot of people are running 29er wheels for summer use due to the larger effective diameter giving them a similar geomatry to that of the BFL's.

    I know you already have a 29er but am interested as to why your not tempted to take the same route. I'm guessing you're looking at Nates for summer which seem very aggressive and serious mud pluggers (interesting thread on trail damage with them the other day) or have you found a more summer centric tyre option in 3.7"?

  • It's been interesting watching your deisgn progress. I've been following the fat bike threads on MBR as I'm loving all the innovation and have seen your questions as things have progressed. I see that a lot of people are running 29er wheels for summer use due to the larger effective diameter giving them a similar geomatry to that of the BFL's.

    I know you already have a 29er but am interested as to why your not tempted to take the same route. I'm guessing you're looking at Nates for summer which seem very aggressive and serious mud pluggers (interesting thread on trail damage with them the other day) or have you found a more summer centric tyre option in 3.7"?

    My 29er is a weight weenie, single speed. The fatbike will have more cush, load carrying abilitys, and gears. Definitely an overlap there. But different enough for me to want to own both. Lightening the wheels of the fatty seems futile, when my Longboard is sub 9Kg. In the same way, as adding load carrying options to the Longboard would be futile considering the local terrain, and its lack of gears.

    One more very good reason not to build a set of 29er wheels for the fat bike. Is the cost and availability of Hubs. Financially it makes little sense to sell the 29er, and buy extra wheels. Great option if you dont already own a 29er/ summer MTB, though.

    My summer tyre of chioce would be the Husker Du from 45NRTH. Obviously I'm just guessing from the appearance. But it seems to have the same sort of pattern as my preffered WTB Weirwolfs. Which work well on alpine trails. I'll probably just end up running the BFLs all year though. I'm more concerned with the bike being future proof, than immediately versitle.

  • Finally found a pic of my drop-outs in use. I'm going for post mount, rockers. The rocker design means the caliper can be placed within the rear triangle, which is a lot cleaner, means you dont need a bracing strut, and keeps the caliper more out of the wayof knocks from panniers etc. The post mount means I can run a 160mm rotor without any kind of adaptor.

    Another aspect of the rocker design is the fact that it mounts the wheel axel inside the rear triangle, Whereas the sliders have the wheel kinda hanging out the back. Not a mechanical issue. But I prefer the way the rear sits on the rockers, from an asthetic standpoint.

    http://twentynineinches.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/09/P1030880.JPG

  • How do you set up the discs with that dropout, sliding mount?

  • How do you set up the discs with that dropout, sliding mount?

    The post mount is attached to the 'rocking' drop-out. The mount needs to be specific to the rotor size. Currently PMWs offer 160mm. But fats my plan to run 160mm rear, 183mm front.

  • You think you'll ever need 183 for the front?
    Seems somewhat overkill.

  • You think you'll ever need 183 for the front?
    Seems somewhat overkill.

    Probably not.

    I have 140/160 on the 29er and like the difference in brake feel. So I figured 160/183 for the fatty. I need to look into the fork specs though. I already need to space the front rotor, using my current component list. So I dont want to add adaptors, for the sake of a feeling.

  • I guess brakes a really personal thing. I've used odd-sized rotors and not really got on with it.
    I do have a loathing for adaptors though.

  • I'd forgotten that you were going 175 and I can understand it better when you describe the 29er you have.

    It's looking like an interesting build, can't wait to see the reaction over at MBR when you get it rolling.

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Winter bike / Snow bike thread

Posted by Avatar for Clever_Pun @Clever_Pun

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