Winter bike / Snow bike thread

lee, hope it all goes well

speaking with gabes at the weekend triton just seemed perfect for you

Is such a slack HT common on Fatbikes?

More often than not its 69.5. A lot of it is down how slow these bikes are often ridden. The Pugsley has more of a standard hard tail geometry, and gets great reviews for handling. So I tweeked the geometry of a dedicated snowbike, slightly in the Pugleys direction. With the angle based on a axle to crown length of 460mm. I can add a little front sus, for trail riding, without killing the handling.

lee, hope it all goes well

speaking with gabes at the weekend triton just seemed perfect for you

Havent heard back. But I read that the guys on his honey moon. So I'm not going to badger him. Does look perfect though. If this goes through, I owe you one big time.

Unless I succumb, and buy a fatty tyre compatible titanium unicycle frame.

Dont need a unicycle, dont need a uncycle, dont need a uncycle, dont need a uncycle, dont need a uncycle, dont need a uncycle, dont need a uncycle, dont need a uncycle, dont need a uncycle, dont need a uncycle, dont need a uncycle, dont need a uncycle, dont need a uncycle, dont need a uncycle, dont need a uncycle, dont need a uncycle, dont need a uncycle, dont need a uncycle, dont need a uncycle, dont need a uncycle, dont need a uncycle. FFS.

Feck. More decisions. Should I get sliding drop-outs? I'm not really planning to SS it. At least not during the winter. But I am an avid SS'r, so it could come up.

My main thinking is that in the future some nice company might bring out an internal geared hub, with a 170mm OLD (*there is at least one, but not with the range I'd want).

Paragon actually do them with belt openings too. Imagine a belt driven, hub geared, Ti snowbike. Fecking perfect.

hhhmmmmm.

given the relatively low cost you should trick it out and make it future proof, the option of ss or belt drive hub gearing must appeal

also belt drive for beach bike, am assuming sand would be less damaging to a belt than a conventional drivetrain

The drop-outs are around $130. Which I would have to buy myself. I'm guessing including them wont cost more. So a pretty cheap upgrade.

If I want to go SS-ing I have the 29er. Also, I*d need to gear down a heavy fat bike so much to get up our climbs. That it doesnt really appeal.

The belt drive option appeals, as I really like the one I have. It would rely on a 170 OLD IGH turning up though. Also, the belt is bloody sensitive to chainline. Which just adds to the issue of working around the big tyres.

So on the face of it. Its not worth the hassle. But with the correct headset, and a 1.5" headtube, I can adjust my headtube angle. The slidding drop-outs would allow me to adjust the effective chain stay length too. So I could fine tune the frame for trail and snow riding. Which my inner nerd fecking loves.

go for it!

still cheaper than most other options and you get a custom Ti frame

My idea is to add stand-over by simply lowering the top tube, and have head and seat tubes extend a touch more than usual. Then add front tyre clearance by lifting the down tube a touch higher up the headtube.

a la

?

Sounds wicked.

+1 to future proofing - even if now it doesn't seem necessary. Having the scope for an adjustable headset is a really smart move.

Altho I'm not sure if belt drive is necessary, of all the frame building costs it's surely got to be one of the cheaper.

Looking at these. Tempted to go post mount though.

I would then need to buy one of these separately, if I wanted a belt.

those sliding dropouts are great...
If you change the bolts immediately.
Also- having a EBB on 1 bike and a PSW on the other, I prefer the EBB.
You set it once, and then its done, whereas the PSWs on mine seem to enjoy moving occasionally.

those sliding dropouts are great...
If you change the bolts immediately.
Also- having a EBB on 1 bike and a PSW on the other, I prefer the EBB.
You set it once, and then its done, whereas the PSWs on mine seem to enjoy moving occasionally.

EBB isnt gonna happen.

A) I dont know of anyone that makes EBB shells in 100mm width, and B) the builder doesnt have them as an option anyway.

I'm also only considering adding the sliders for extra versitility, at little extra cost. I'm a little concerned about the shear height of the Big Fat Larry tyre. Being able to move the rear wheel 15mm. Could be a godsend.

Dmitry got back to me last night, and I decided to go for it. I sent him a mass of figures to go through.

The geometry I suggested is mad compact, like my 29er. Standover isnt easy for us shorties at the best of times. But when your foot is likely to sink a further 10cm from the bike. It gets tricky.

Very excited.

fnck yeah!

Awesomeness.

Decent decision SF. The trials market have always been well served by Triton.

So I'm thinking......

Custom Ti frame, with paragon drop-outs and a 1.5" headtube.
Full carbon fork with tapered steerer.
4.7" Big Fat Larrys on 80mm rims.
Hope M4 brakes.
Sram XO short cage rear mech, run off a T900 shifter. 1x10, (31T : 11-36T)
Gobi saddle, Jone cut-H bars, and Crank Bros Mallets.

Sounds pretty fecking amazing to me.

Expect a BeeMC-like build period though ;)

Decent decision SF. The trials market have always been well served by Triton.

Thats the bit that swung it. That and the fact that they've made a couple fatties before. There's a lot to feck up when building a fatty.

Wow, 4.7? I'd have thought 3.8 would be enough.. why the even larger floatation?

Can you also do Dammit style photography?
I love to think of your inner weight weenie crying outwardly at having to post scale shots.

Can you also do Dammit style photography?
I love to think of your inner weight weenie crying outwardly at having to post scale shots.

I work in a lab. I'm not sure we have scales that can weigh 1300g a piece rims, or a piece 1400g tyres.

I swear the rimstrips weigh as much as my road tyres.

Wow, 4.7? I'd have thought 3.8 would be enough.. why the even larger floatation?

If something is worth doing, its worth overdoing.

Overdoin' it.

and your experience of riding in real snow is?