Home DIY

Wouldn't that be an 'adult piano'?

Also where is the 'Bicycle workshop' located?

Wherever I am

This is how the bathrooms turned out- one main bathroom, one ensuite:

That is a guide only
;-)
if the wall is reasonably soft brick (ie not engineering brick or concrete) you'll be alright.
I use my Makita 2kg SDS occasionally for cutting 100 mm holes in London Stock brick etc.

Also RPM is totally right -diamond is the only way to go.

You'll be fine with that DeWalt. I've used my (green) Bosch SDS to drive a 150mm core drill - no real problem through normal London stock brick, just made sure I took it easy.

(Drill was a cheap diamond one off ebay. Would have offered it up if you'd bought a six inch fan not a four inch one ... I've only used it once.)

I haz this;
http://youtu.be/Nu0O58GQVFE

DeWalt >>>>>>>>

Amazing tool. We bought one and despite it costing IIRC around £500 I reckon it saved that in labour costs first time we used it. We had a bunch of lift cars to line out in ply for builders use and this absolutely ate up the cutting to size.

SDS I have- the DeWalt in the photo up-thread.

EDIT although having just read this it looks like it's only rated for a 65mm core bit.

Bugger.

You need a bigger drill? I've got one of these babies...

We have door.

Nah, its' fine.

The door is a bit juddery, but the runners are full of crap having been stored in my garage for the last couple of months, I'll clean those out and hopefully that'll sort it.

Now I just need to do some filling, paint the walls and nail the skirting on.

Boom!

Nice transition from wall tiles to wooden floor.

did you sort a core drill?

Low profile or full size?

Using flooring cut down.

did you sort a core drill?

WVM has kindly offered to lend me one, we just need to work out when we'll both be in the same place at the same time.

That's not a drill bit, this is a drill bit:

The victim:

The crime:

He's just popped up in Australia. That's a drill bit and a half.

Just been to a friends birthday, now off to a stag do.

Godamn wiring.

problem?

^ Missing the -

Nothing that chasing another wire into the wall won't solve.

Victim of my own faulty assumptions basically- I'd not really applied any thought to it, and assumed that I could put the extractor "after" the light, wired out the back of the light switch if that makes sense?

Anyway- I can't, so I need to take the ceiling down, then run a fresh cable.

Next weekend.

What should I do with walls where someone hang wallpaper straight onto an untreated board?
Any plasterers on the forum?

Should I just clean it, fill it and tile on top or should I skim the wall first?

Nothing that chasing another wire into the wall won't solve.

Victim of my own faulty assumptions basically- I'd not really applied any thought to it, and assumed that I could put the extractor "after" the light, wired out the back of the light switch if that makes sense?

Anyway- I can't, so I need to take the ceiling down, then run a fresh cable.

Next weekend.

like this > http://www.ultimatehandyman.co.uk/diy/electrics/extractor_fan/shower_extractor_fan_fitting.htm

note the required 3 pole isolator mounted outside the bathroom

also your cables should be installed thus > http://www.qvsdirect.com/technical/pdf/cable/concealed_cables.pdf

if less than 50mm deep then mechanically protected

if the cable (T&E?) was lain in a duct then you might be able to use the existing cable as the draw wire for pulling the new 4 core in, but if you've plastered it directly..

I'm guessing you've ommited the permanent live supply to allow the fan to run on after the light is switched off?
My first though was to use the earth as the permanent live assuming the fan is double insulated but, if you've used twin and earth then it's a bit of a no no.
Is the room just a shower room of does it contain a wc too? If the former, you could perhaps just fit a humidistat type fan and hook it up to a permanent feed using the existing wiring and swapping the live connection at the light switch.

Also, does the ceiling need to come down or can you just use the old wire as a draw wire?

@ EEI
Will this lot get you out of trouble?

It's hard to tell from the pictures but, if the plasterboard is fairly sound then a quick 'dab'll do ya' of joint filler and a rub down may be the easy way out. If the paper surface of the plasterboard is too damaged, the moisture from skimming may just blow what's left.