Home DIY

Edited.
There's tools for removing snapped keys.
Thin wires with barbs cut into them>>
Broken key extractor set https://amzn.eu/d/0bCMOdb

To remove the key, you need to orientate the key into the broken key into the position where it can normally be inserted and removed.

To replace the cylinder, you'll need to get the cam aligned with the bottom of the cylinder cuttout, to allow you to withdraw the cylinder. That's normally done by turning the key about 15 degrees turned one way or the other.
You'll also need to remove the retaining screw which is accessed through the hole in the faceplate... when the faceplate is in the correct place, as I assume it still moves up/down when the handle lever is moved.

Doors that are difficult to lock are often caused by the door being out of adjustment with the frame. So, one or more of the locking points can't travel quite far enough without it bottoming out in the keep. At which point you're lifting or pulling the door into place with the locking mechanism before you can turn the key.

Being a sliding door, I'd guess the bottom rollers need a slight adjustment to raise the door. Or one roller needs adjustment to get the side of the door equally aligned with the side of the frame. Looks like there's also packers available to shim the keeps.
https://www.gfdhomes.co.uk/downloads/cortizo/cortizo-install-guide.pdf

Got the cylinder out no problem. Finding a suitable replacement seems to be more of an issue!
It seems to be a hard to find size. I might give the key removal tools a go if I can't find a replacement but I'm keen to get it lockable asap. I'm wedging it shut with an offcut of skirting at the moment!
I'll look into adjusting the rollers, I hadn't thought of that. It's definitely catching on one of the keeps.

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Cylinders are usually 30mm, 35mm and upwards in 5mm steps. Although some manufacturers treat it as a nominal dimension.
32/32 is actually a thing, although less common.
A 30/30 would work, but the cylinder may be dead flush or slightly recessed in the handle.
A 35/35.will also fit but leave about 5mm proud each side.

It's definitely catching on one of the keeps.

If something is clashing but i cant see where, i use a dab of lipstick, grease or such like on the locking point. Close the door and look for any transfer marks an the frame.

You can drop a cylinder on the ground with the key pointing upwards, and it might pop out enough to get some pliers on the end.

Whilst we're on euro cylinders, anyone got any tips for getting the one out of my garage door? Its open (unlocked), but I dont have a key so I cant get turn it and out of the frame. I have read you can snap older ones...

Yes that was my plan to see where the interference is. I had thought chalk but grease is a better shout. I tried very briefly with bluetac but the resolution was a bit low!

Stand down, as you were. Nothing to see here.
……

Pm sent.

There's a good chance of damaging the locking mechanism case by doing this.

I've just snapped 3 basic nickel cylinders in old door lock mechanisms. Two came out ok, but one left the side of the case bent.

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I’ve only done it once when I got locked out and replaced the cylinder with a newer model. I hadn’t thought about it doing any harm, but that does make sense now I think about it.

This one from The Bad Internet Man should do the trick and has next day delivery.
As 69121 says, search for 30 30 euro cylinder lock (or 25 10 25)

Managed to find a 26x26 in black that suits my murked out lifestyle so ordered 2 and will replace both sides

In the latest thrilling instalment of lockgate, I’m unable to move the locking bar back down to its unlocked position. It feels like it’s catching on something where the cylinder used to be but I can’t see where. I’ve removed the lock cover but there’s nothing obvious. I’d really like to start putting this back together before I have the whole bloody thing in pieces on the patio!

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Sounds like you removed the cylinder whilst the mechanism was locked. Or the lock is actually fucked. On most locks, the cylinder cam picks up and moves a bit left/right to unblock the mechanism

Use a cylinder which you have a key for and try unlocking it.

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Ha yeah it took longer than I care to admit to realise what I'd done! Put the old cylinder back in and managed to force it round with a screwdriver.

More haste, less speed.

having a larf doing some parf on my new workbench topper. only drilled 2 holes in the wrong place so far. only about 200 more pilot holes to go.

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Shower head holder broke off tonight - the white flanged bit in the middle is what sheared. Cant see any way to get the holder off the rail, or indeed the rail off the wall. Any tips before I go destructive?

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rail off the wall

Is there a push-fit cap over the screws where the rail is fixed to the wall? I'd expect something like that.

new boiler incoming. Are the CombiMate things actually a thing, or snake oil?

https://www.cityplumbing.co.uk/p/cistermiser-39csr-com1-combimate-scale-reducer/p/999407

The holder will normally slide off the end of the rail. As Cupcakes said, there is normally just a cap on the ends of the rail, or a grub screw holding it in place if it passes through one of the brackets.

The manufacture will specify any anti-scale device that's required to get the full warranty - follow their spec.

I don’t think anything is required for the warranty and they’re not trying to sell me something. Was just wondering if it was worth me buying one while the boiler’s being fitted

Our bathroom window reveal cannot be tiled as the tilting window is so close and the crittall frame so narrow, we decided on Perspex which matched the tiles exactly.
I have to shave the back of a tile backer board so it meets the brass trim precisely but meets the window frame with no spacer behind, this was beyond my skills before watching someone scribe a perfect fit but the templates I made are spot on.
Quite pleased with the results so far.
Probably fuck it up now ;-)

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Kitchen being fitted and engineered wood floor going in next week! After a couple of months without a kitchen, it’s exciting seeing it coming together.
I remember there being some chat about threshold bars. Does anyone have any recommendations of better quality ones?
Just wanting brushed alu/stainless steel finish.