-
• #41778
In the same way you’re supposed to pronounce the K in Knipex, but you just sound like a div saying kuh-nipex rather than just nipex.
And my boss calls Wagos “wagus/waygus”. He’s oldschool and connector blocks are better according to him, and he is right about everything of course ;)
-
• #41779
I remember working as a sandwich delivery driver and saying something about chorizo in the Spainish pronunciation to on of the kitchen girls* lots of back and forth trying to work out what I was taking about. oh, cho-ritzo.
*would of been in her late 50s at least 😊
-
• #41780
You use wagos on the railways? Sheesh my boss would go apeshit.
-
• #41781
Yeah some strange continental thing. Wouldn't have happened in BR days :)
-
• #41782
I'd never heard it either until the actual company said it.
-
• #41783
Feel like I remember mikata battery chat on here.
I've seen a Mikata lawnmower on FBM that uses 2x3amp batteries. What's the cheapest I can get non-exploding batteries to fit plus a charger?
Alternatively has anyone tried adapters? (I have dewalt batteries)
Cheers. -
• #41784
Fucksake. Engineered wood floor in our basement (lower ground floor actually I suppose) kitchen/living room has been sinking for months... maybe years. Gap under the floorboards now well over an inch in places and the floor is bouncy. Water ingress and/or damp was diagnosed, leading to rotten joists.
Had a quote to lift and retain the floor, repair/replace the rotten joists and re-lay. The idea was to only do the front of the (knocked through) room as the kitchen at the back seems fine. They were going to cut the boards at the point the rooms were knocked through and put a threshold in to cover the join. £5k, so ouch but managemable.
Builder arrived this morning after i spend half the night clearing the room and shifting furniture. Turns out they can't lift and retain the floor as it's glued together and on removing (also rotten) skirting found that the damp extends a couple of metres up the wall.
New quote for new floor throughout plus stripping plaster, sealing and replastering and digging up the concrete floor outside the front and putting proper drainage in is £20k. Very ouch and very much not managaable. Insurance won't cover it apparently.
Balls.
EDIT: not DIY as such... just ranting. carry on.
-
• #41785
Cheers man!
-
• #41786
With adapters it's about how much more space they need. I got one to use my Milwaukee batteries on my green Bosch tools. There's no way it would work on the RO sander and on the strimmer and mini vac I had to perform some surgery on the tool itself for it to fit. Otherwise it does what it says on the tin.
-
• #41787
👍
-
• #41788
ouch indeed, there is at least some of that you can DIY though if you wanted to save money, digging out the concrete, stripping the plaster , even re-plastering is doable (I did our hallway)
Not 100% sure sealing is required unless the wall is below ground level? I'd get a second opinion on that.. if the concrete is what was causing the dpc to be breached that could be the all the fix to the damp issues.
-
• #41789
Lay the floor and do skirting yourself, they are not difficult.
you will likely do as good a job as a professional just a bit slower. -
• #41790
Anyone got any 25mm thick pdf or ply they don't need?
Looking for a piece about 50cm x 50cm -
• #41791
I have lots of 24mm birch ply off-cuts from CNC-ing our staircase, in SE16, will check if I have a 50x50 piece, if so you’re more than welcome to have as much as you want.
-
• #41792
the entire railway is held together with wago's, Malg tape and resin joints
-
• #41793
That would do the trick and I'm not far from you.
Just double checked my measurements and I actually need a piece that's more like 60x50.
If you have anything left that size let me know, cheers -
• #41794
Does anyone have a foolproof method of adjusting this type of sliding door lock? The latch itself feels ok but the key is insanely difficult to turn - like it feels like it’s going to snap difficult.
3 Attachments
-
• #41795
Fucksticks
1 Attachment
-
• #41796
That's not supposed to look like that.
-
• #41797
Big magnet?
-
• #41798
Nah it’s well and truly in there. New cylinder time. So, in addition to my original question about adjusting the damn thing, anyone know how to go about swapping the cylinder?
The most fun part about all of this is that I put my front door on the latch on Monday while I got something from the car, the wind slammed the door and the force jammed the lock. I took it apart and released it but now it doesn’t quite click into the jamb like it used to. My house is currently as secure as a crisp packet. -
• #41799
It looks like a normal eurocylinder as far as I can see. I am not familiar with that type of door, but it looks like both of the silver metal plates on the edge of it look like they need to come off, and underneath there will be a single screw bang in the middle that lines up with close to the bottom of the eurocylinder.
Undo screw (it’s long) and hope the cylinder just slides out. If it doesn’t it’s because the lock paddle thing (don’t know the name, the bit that rotates when the key turns, that makes the door lock) is sticking out and getting in the way. You may be able to rotate it with a key in the other side, I’m not sure.
Then measure it and buy one the same - eg 50mm:50mm or 60mm:50mm, 30:60 etc - it’s the length of the cylinder, and each # of mm is either side of the centre (some doors need the cylinder to be longer in.the inside half than the outside or vice versa)
-
• #41800
You may be able to adjust the keep (plate in the door frame) to get the front door locking smoothly again.
I've been calling them way-go for at least 10 years and no-one has corrected.
I've not heard anyone call them vah-go in railway engineering.