Home DIY

I think it can depend on the wood itself - we've done different floors in the same house and got slightly different results. i think we ended up going for 1 coat of white tint, followed by 1/2 coats of raw. 2 coats of white is very live-laugh.

We did on one floor (before having to redo it a year later after builders ruined it) use lye - followed by a couple of coats of raw osmo - it worked super well.

Am thinking about getting our front door dipped because god knows what horrible paint is on it under three layers of innocuous looking stuff. Assume the glass would have to come out.

lye

hadn’t heard of this, thanks!
guess we’ll see how the boards come up after sanding and take it from there in about 6 weeks or so

Tayto!
My mate got married next to their factory, was never sure if it was because the church was the one they wanted or they just liked Tayto so much

Crabtree are what folk keep asking me to fit, they look like older classic uk style, have a nice light positive switch action, but fecking pita to wire, terrible terminals imo.
Mk and the higher end mk line (can't remember the name, the more expensive ones) are so much easier to fit, lower profile and modern looking.
In last two years I've had two mk that were doa, both usb double socket, both the switch felt awful in the packet and turned out to have failed /be broken internally. Rare though!

Did take out some very nicely made switches a few weeks ago. Devastating ugly, but well made and the switch action was lush. Ugly though, 90s style

Is this an S-plan setup?

Non-combi boiler in another room. Wired thermostat to the timer. One valve for HW and one for CH, plus a pump. That right? Presumably it’ll be switched live.

Want to stick a Tado in there.

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I can sympathise with that.

One time when I was visiting the mother in law in Melbourne I foolishly agreed to help her out by replacing the stumps under the house. Traditional Australian construction supports the floors on stumps (basically sections of telephone pole) and these need to be replaced periodically. The spider man sprayed under there a couple of days before I did the deed but I still felt the need to cover all exposed skin (in 35 degree heat) I also met one or two very big huntsmen spiders. Apparently the sound of me squealing every time something brushed up against me was hilarious.

Nope

Sounds like me TBH

"something else"

What about a firepit?

spicy bikers are god tier

When I was commuting in Melbourne there were a couple of junctions where you'd bunch up with other cyclists waiting for a filter. This one time someone barged past me with their bike and starting frantically batting away guy infront's dreadlocks. Turns out this other cyclist had spotted a huntsman casually crawling out from underneath the guy's hair ! Such a wild country.

bathroom question - leaning towards wedi boards for lining the room (at least in the wet/wet-adjacent areas) - any other shouts for aquapanel/hardie backer/plain old water-resistant plasterboard?

I like the look of wedi as we can get slightly thinner ones where we're space restricted (either side of the bath), and thicker ones for the external wall to provide a bit more insulation.

My preference is always for wediboard type products as they can easily be tanked with the appropriate tapes / tanking compounds. Also because the tiles are backed with foam they will stay much closer temperature wise to the air in the bathroom therefore condensation is less likely to form making mould on the grout lines less of an issue, especially if there is decent extraction.

Perfect - recently got a new extractor, just need to wire it in when the time comes :)

Am I missing an easier way to get this fucking thing out without knocking down a wall by mistake?

(Multitool cutting through wood around the nails pulling/levering the section with nail out. Then chiseling the blown plaster off back to the brick to allow the shelves themselves to be pulled out).

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Top tip - cover the nitromors in cling film to keep the moisture in the stripper and working for longer.

keep the moisture in the stripper

Kenneth Williams.jpg

If you have a reciprocating saw you could try cutting the shelves in half and folding them down to get them out.

Cut round the outside of the fascia with the multitool and pry the frontage out as a single piece.

Can I ask who you used please? I need to get our teak (I think?) parquet re-finished as half of it has been under carpet for the last 50 years, so has highly compressed underlay smoshed into it. we're also missing one finger which is annoying.

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Danny
UFSANDING team
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Many thanks!

Cut round the outside of the fascia with the multitool and pry the
frontage out as a single piece.

Tried that yesterday with no joy - but the cutting the shelves in half in the middle is a sensible, logical idea that obviously I hadn't thought of.

Won't the shelves lift off the battens and come out? Might need to start with the top one to give the next one headroom to lift one side first - or is the plaster blocking one side from lifting/jamming the shelves? If the latter then maybe cut through the shelves as bobbo suggests - Jigsaw would get most of the way through if no reciprocating saw.

Yep, they've all been plastered down unfortunately, embedded into 20mm+ in some places. And nailed to the battens for good measure.

Looking to purchase a basic nail gun to finish fixing skirting boards in a couple of rooms (Into timber frame plastered partition wall) as my carpenter has cancelled on me.

Would this Ryobi one do the trick? Seems a lot of Dewalt, Makita etc go straight into £400+ which is overkill for what I need and hiring is like £70 per day.

If the above is positive, does anyone have experience with these battery adaptors? Seems like a clever idea but too good to be true? https://badaptor.com/product/convert-dewalt-battery-adaptor-to-ryobi-cordless-tool/