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• #28827
Does anyone want these dust guards for the price of postage? Just about done with the messy bit of my renovation. I have three of them
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• #28828
Yes please. Will PM
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• #28829
Thanks for that!
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• #28830
I need to make some basic drawer units for some Muji shelving. Alas, the drawers I have aren’t available anymore, and I’d like some more that sort of match.
They don’t seem to be a complicated design. However, I don’t have any appropriate tools really, just what I’ve collected through the years as a renter. So, does anybody have an idea what the minimal amount of tools I’d need would be to make something like the photos below? Fine saw? Corner clamp? Mitre guide?
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• #28831
I'm a gas engineer I can solder, im not sure the same applies to what im looking to do sadly. The sheet being thin will probs have to be done in situ and glued already to the base(Wood). It'll be tricky when I come to it.
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• #28832
Could you glue a copper headbadge in a useful way?
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• #28833
Double problematic if it’s on powdercoat.
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• #28834
You’re going to struggle to achieve that with hand tools.
I would say you’d need access to a track saw or table saw.
Not really sure how they’ve joined the bottom - assume a dado then some fixing nails for the strengthening piece.
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• #28835
Also @Muppetteer
Hand saw, plane, and 1/2" router with a decent size chamfer bit and various sized straight fluted bits could get the job done.....
As you say, you could do it with purely hand tools but the skill and experience levels needed are high.
I would put money on there being dominos re-enforcing the mitres at the corners though. Either that or the drawer boxes are designed to fail as mitres, even with hi spec resin-based glue, aren't strong enough joints to withstand pulling like that long term. The cheaper/easier way to re-enforce them would be with splines.
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• #28836
To a frame? Yeah I’d just epoxy that personally
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• #28837
Any tips for troubleshooting a photocell?
Was working fine last night. Added another light and now it’s not switching on when the cell is fully wrapped up (to simulate darkness).
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• #28838
They’re super thin for dominos. Maybe a spline.
If the bottom is dado’d and glued, that might be enough strength.
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• #28839
What laptop stand you using?
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• #28840
Multimeter for resistance across the component, is it a simple ldr?
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• #28842
Don’t quite know. Think it’s a bit more complicated as it’s live in/live out/neutral terminals. And there’s an audible click of the switch as it goes on/off.
Think I’ve got it sorted. My guess is that it doesn’t like being switched on and off too much/too rapidly. So trying to test with a rag covering it up is just making it unhappy.
Disconnected to double check my terminations and it seemed ok after that (I assume it just wanted to be left off for a bit). Will leave overnight and see what it does. Just don’t want to be coming back to the job another time if I can sort it now.
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• #28843
Yup. I would stick to butt joint boxes.
Easiest way would be with pocket screws and glue.
That way, all you’d need was a pocket screw jig, a drill, a hand saw (circular saw would still be better) and some clamps.
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• #28844
Nervous diy project today, lifting our staircase a couple of centimetres to straighten it a bit and make it creak less. Strapped it together first to stop the steps falling out in case I went too far
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• #28845
Then I jacked away, as it were
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• #28846
It was pretty wonky. After a couple of cm I found what I presume is the original 60s wallpaper.
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• #28847
Straight-ish. We’ll be plastering and painting the walls at some point as the sweet baby blue isn’t a favourite. Managed to lift the other corner off the radiator which is probably for the best.
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• #28848
Next step (ba dum tish) is screwing the steps to the sides as they move around and creak a lot. Bought a drill guide/jig thing, see how it goes.
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• #28849
Impressive DIY.
Was the stairs being held up by the radiator!?
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• #28850
Nice work. What’s the rest of the house like? Looks like there are some nice details.
Great success!
But yeah. I’d fit racist window fittings and b done with it.
One of the first jobs here was to patch some massive holes above a window from where a curtain rail had reluctantly departed the plasterwork.