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I know chem bolts would be strongest but that would be a seriously permanent installation in the house.
Not necessarily, chemical fixings are pretty easy to remove with the liberal application of heat. It is basically plastic after all so melts easily.
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Thank you.
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Just to add a bit of meta to this thread I'm just arriving at the corporate hospitality tent at St Andrews.
Sue me
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Do you have a celler? It wasn't uncommon in Victorian terraced houses to have a coal chute on the front path leading to a coal cellar.
If this is the case I'd advise not putting anything too heavy on the path, say a ton bag from a builder's merchants. The structure isn't that strong and the ton bag is likely to make its own shortcut into the cellar.
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It's been a while since I got my ticket and my experience apart from fitting fd30 doors as part of a loft conversion is almost entirely commercial.
But.....
Off the top of my head a door going from a communal hallway to a flat should be fd60 according to today's regs. I don't know if it would have been different in '86 (if it was you can do a like-for-like replacement) however it will be easy to tell a fd30 door is 45mm thick, fd60 is 54mm.
You should have an intumescent with cold smoke seal on the door or door liner. I'd go with brush over blade as they are less susceptible to damage. Fitting them is a peice of piss cut to length, peel off the sticky backing an insert in the rebate.
If it's too tight to go in you'll need to strip off the paint in the rebate I'm afraid. The intumescent material is contained within plastic and can be damaged by rough handling.
I wouldn't worry too much about the inspection, there are many things that they can pick up on and you should be given advice, and time, to make it right.
Before going out and buying any intumescent strips check the gap around the door, it cannot be less than 2mm or more than 4mm and should ideally be 3mm. If it doesn't fall within these tolerances, which is possible given the age of the building you'll be forking out for a new door and, quite possibly, a frame too.
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Oh yeah, thought that was the company I ordered from last time. Err. Better check the chaos that is my filing system!
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Ply from places like b and q or Wickes is always rubbish for sheetgoods in London builder depot is good but almost all sheet goods are currently at astronomical prices.
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I wouldn't ever recommend wood work tops around a sink.
If you must do it:
- Use a tropical hardwood such as iroko as it is more rot resistant than oak; be warned it's also much harder, heavier and prone to burning when cut with power tools.
- Have a sink that sits ON TOP of the worksurface (realise this is probably too late for you)
- If having a Belfast type sink have a good lip all the way round the sink and cut a drip into the underside.
- Seal all endgrain with a penetrating finish and multiple coats such as Rubio Monocoat (natural)
- Use a tropical hardwood such as iroko as it is more rot resistant than oak; be warned it's also much harder, heavier and prone to burning when cut with power tools.
Had the most fun day I've had since (re)taking up mountain biking.
If anyone fancies a trip in the UK I would heartily recommend Ballater in Scotland loads of maintain trails on marked on trailforks, mastermind and heartbreak ridge being my favourites. An absolutely cracking LBS Cycle Highlands.
Heres a vid of someone else riding heartbreak ridge,
https://youtu.be/KgR68Xnhbos
Note these guys got up to the trailhead the sensible way, I rode up a downhill route called pannanich trail which would have been much better on an emtb.
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